RCE yellows springs vs ST coilovers

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yeah I'd take ST coilovers (with a proper set up) over RCE Yellows with old and tired 2013 shocks.

If you can find some new and low mileage 2016 or 2017+ shocks, go for it with the Yellows. The ST coilovers are a fine choice for a basic street set up but with any coilover you'll have to pay a little more attention to set up.

- Andrew

Can you elaborate on "proper setup"

[Shark_Bait88]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Would be nice to find some of the new PP setup. Maybe I will try for those and pair with a set of yellows.

From what I've seen PP shocks are harder to come by and generally people ask a fair bit more than they probably should. Probably not worth the difference vs a low mileage set of '17+ shocks, which are already quite an improvement over earlier cars. I got a set of '17 shocks w/ less than 400 miles for $280 shipped. Likely putting Yellows on for next track season.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88

From what I've seen PP shocks are harder to come by and generally people ask a fair bit more than they probably should. Probably not worth the difference vs a low mileage set of '17+ shocks, which are already quite an improvement over earlier cars. I got a set of '17 shocks w/ less than 400 miles for $280 shipped. Likely putting Yellows on for next track season.

where did you manage to sang them?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Can you elaborate on "proper setup"

A good alignment (and I mean a GOOD alignment, not factory spec crap) and ride heights set with performance/ride in mind, not just looks.

- Andrew

[Shark_Bait88]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

where did you manage to sang them?

In the Suspension FS section of this forum

[jflogerzi]

What's a good shop in socal that can do install plus a solid alignment? Anyone have recommendations?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

[jflogerzi]

I just tracked down a almost brand new set of 2017 Dampers off a BRZ with 200 miles for 80$ without top hats. Just re-use my current stock ones. Going to pair it with RCE Yellows and camber bolts up front. Now the question is with the back.

Is it worth it to get some Whiteline LCA to allow for camber adjustments in the rear? I am planing on either Enkie RPF1's in 17x8 ET45 or 949 RACING 6UL 17X8 ET40. I want as neutral of a handling car and figured have LCA will let me get camber dialed in correctly. Rather do everything right since I am saving money rather then getting cheap coilovers. Also thinking of adding a 5mm spacer in front and 10mm spacer in back. I don't like the tucked look when you drop this car with near stock offset. Thoughts???

[strat61caster]

Go for the lcas, sounds like you care.

Changing wheel spacings changes handling.

[jflogerzi]

@Racecomp Engineering

Can you help recommenced a good alignment spec for my car. Mostly a DD and canyon carver with a few HPDE a year.

2017 Dampers off a BRZ
RCE Yellow Springs
SPC LCAs
SPC camber bolts for up front

17x8 et40 and 225/45/17 Firestone Indy Hawk tires

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

@Racecomp Engineering

Can you help recommenced a good alignment spec for my car. Mostly a DD and canyon carver with a few HPDE a year.

2017 Dampers off a BRZ
RCE Yellow Springs
SPC LCAs
SPC camber bolts for up front

17x8 et40 and 225/45/17 Firestone Indy Hawk tires

Nice set up!

Front camber: -2.2
Rear camber: -1.8
Front toe: 0
Rear toe: 0.14 in

You might not be able to get -2.2 up front with just your bolts, but max them out and make sure it's even.

- Andrew

[steel86gt]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

What's a good shop in socal that can do install plus a solid alignment? Anyone have recommendations?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

West End Alignment in Gardena, CA is a reputable shop! Ask for Darin! (310) 808-9233

https://www.yelp.com/biz/west-end-al...vice_attribute

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Nice set up!

Front camber: -2.2
Rear camber: -1.8
Front toe: 0
Rear toe: 0.14 in

You might not be able to get -2.2 up front with just your bolts, but max them out and make sure it's even.

- Andrew

Will this cause excessive tire wear?

[churchx]

HPDE by itself will cause excessive wear. More camber will even wear pattern (and add grip), to not rip just tire outsides on track.
Suggested numbers by RCE are somewhere in between for DD only car (with optimum camber in -1.5 to -1 range) and track (-3+ front, -2.5 rear), just as you asked.

Or if you asked about impact on DD wear .. too slight to care imho. Camber impact on wear is minimal, and of extent to -2.5 shouldn't be noticeable. Excessive toe do wear tires much more, but hence the suggestion by RCE for zero toe front, and slight toe-in rear (some extra stability for acceleration out of corners). Those suggested numbers will also make car understeer less in turns (stock camber is 0, rear -1.1, so more camber front will make it push less).
From my experience, total wear from 5 trackdays was way more then DD wear from whole season. So imho you shouldn't care much about DD wear, but on track with more camber wear will be better . Tires are just consumables, like brake pads & fuel. On track they wear much much faster.

Also one can get two camber bolt set (spc 81305 + whiteline KCA416) for both lower mount holes. Together maxed out worth upto -2.3 at stock height, -2.5 for lowered.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Depending on usage, you could end up with improved tire wear.

- Andrew