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| Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
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Drives: 2014 GT86
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Turning to staggered setup though seems to me like modifying car to workaround wrong style of driving. Imho right approach would be to adjust one's driving inputs for car to go as wished instead of modding it. Learning car/throttle control instead of offsetting wrong driving with wrong tuning for them to cancel out. To not loose grip when accelerating out of corners one should be easy on gradually opening throttle to go proportionally to straightening front wheels and letting weight shift to rear. One can also choose late apex race line for more acceleration sooner out of corner and faster exit speeds.
Yes, one can mod car to point for rear to hardly loose any traction even if flooring throttle at wrong times to wrong extent. But should one and will it make car/driver faster overall, as far as track driving is considered? |
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#16 | |
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Country Boy 4 Life
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 19' & 06' Ridgelines, 13' FR-S
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Quote:
My engine is stock (drop in K&N barely counts for anything). I have eibach pro kit springs and camber bolts. My car drives great. I also clearly stated that I use mine on the street with MPSS tires. MPSS, are generally considered good/great for street. But are also not what track guys are running. Not to mention my suspension or transmission. Every choice is a compromise. I made a compromise that suits my style of driving. I used to own a S2000. It was a better track car. Which compromised its regular life functionality. No room. Anyway for the FRS/BRZ/GT86. I think a stiffer suspension mixed with a larger difference in front and rear tire width could be what people are talking about "killing" the balance.
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#17 | |
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Sarcastic SOB
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: '13 FR-S M6, '23 Volvo V60 CC
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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#18 | |
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Sarcastic SOB
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: '13 FR-S M6, '23 Volvo V60 CC
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After all, my twin IS a sleeper.
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wbradley For This Useful Post: | Leonardo (05-07-2018) |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Drives: 2018 BRZ Limited, 2017 Sportage
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Listen, if you like the way your car drives/looks, then that is the most important factor. That said, I think it's important to have these types of discussions on forums so people without experience know what to look for. If you go to the Wheels/Tires technical area, virtually all discussions are about what fits and not what it does to this car. Enjoy your car. It sounds like your a pretty good driver.... |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to rvoll For This Useful Post: | Grady (05-08-2018) |
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#20 | |
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Only happy when it rains.
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: series.blue
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#21 |
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Sarcastic SOB
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: '13 FR-S M6, '23 Volvo V60 CC
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Black with matte black wheels and a tint with Five Axis kit and 20mm lower than stock. Only visual sign of more hp is the intercooler which is the width of the entire front grill (not a stock HKS intercooler). Most people would not know or see that and automatically think, "Meh, 200 HP" and proceed to out-accelerate me. If I see a tricked out car beside me I always like to look and see and occasionally I can exercise my "sleeper rights". Funny enough have never encountered another twin doing a blast on more than stock power on the street, though I know there are fast ones out there. There was a cost is no object BRZ at the track last week that also had an HKS S/C as it turned out. That think had a Voltex wing, so hardly sleeper.
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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#22 | |
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Only happy when it rains.
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: series.blue
Location: Harnett county NC
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#23 |
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Country Boy 4 Life
Join Date: Jul 2012
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I sleep in mine. My thermarest fits nicely with the seat folded down. I have a small cooler that fits behind the front seat and holds it forward. And it is the same height as the seat folded down. I can make a 40" x 80" bed.
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#24 |
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Sarcastic SOB
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: '13 FR-S M6, '23 Volvo V60 CC
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Good to know if one finds one self homeless. Just park it by the river. lol
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wbradley For This Useful Post: | Leonardo (05-08-2018) |
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#25 |
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Sarcastic SOB
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: '13 FR-S M6, '23 Volvo V60 CC
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Done btw. I will update my impression after Mon May 21 DDT.
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5:AD kit, HKS V1+ S/C, ECUtek dyno'd, Ohlins MP20, Magnaflow cb, Revworks UEL, Topspeed overpipe, Pinnacle Ceramic tint, VG shark fin, HID's, yellow DRL's, full LEDs, red floor lights, Homelink mirror, trunk lid liner, Perrin LWCP, Valenti smoked, Flossy Grip Tape Shorty, GT86 plaque, lighted vanity mirror, Michelin PSS, Project mU +800, DOT4 fluid, 720 Form GTF1 17x8&9, stitched leather bits, EZ valve.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to wbradley For This Useful Post: | Leonardo (05-09-2018) |
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#26 | |
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Senior Member
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First I'll just say that the effects of stagger are often HUGELY overstated... 225/245 vs. 225/225 or 245/245 just isn't that big a deal.
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I guess it's a little late, but tire choice is your problem, not tire size. MPSS are hugely overrated. I tried them on my 6.8 liter 550hp FD for the street, and initially they were OK, but after 18 months they lost all grip. To the extent that I could get wheelspin in a straight line in 3rd gear at 75mph. And the car would instantly go dead sideways, no lateral grip whatsoever once traction was lost. So I went to RE71Rs for my street tires. HUGELY better at putting power down, and also maintained some usable lateral grip even with wheelspin. Way way WAY better than MPSS for driveability. But I wound up running them at the track and couldn't put the power down out of 2nd gear corners. So ultimately I went to NT01s, which for me, for that car, was the best street/track tire compromise. They actually make pretty good street tires if you avoid standing water... Last edited by ZDan; 05-09-2018 at 10:45 AM. |
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#27 |
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Senior Member
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Square will still be faster than staggered until you're into mad power and super wide wheels/tires. Breaking and turning will be better, and overall car balance. Acceleration will be faster with more rear tire and even less front... There's a reason that's the popular drag setup.
There will be stages where a mildly pushy car will be faster for most drivers still polishing their chops. I'm there right now, but dialed that in with suspension... C
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Second chance build... or whatever it is.
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#28 |
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Famous Potatoes
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Interesting how most high end sports cars come staggered.
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