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Old 11-05-2017, 10:43 AM   #15
mrg666
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Originally Posted by Lakitu View Post
Just saw that post, those numbers don't make any sense to me! 207whp with just a header and a tune! That's nuts. Unfortunately, it's outside of my budget! Plus, if I go EL I worry about losing the rumble that UELs have, according to videos and reviews.

Definitely something to look into in the future, though, if I decide I want more power on NA.
Coming from CSG, I believe that number is real. But emission laws are strict in NY, I would have gotten ACE header on top of JRSC with Delicious tune otherwise.

Regarding the UEL rumble, it is the sound of unbalanced pressure between the two rows of exhaust header. There is nothing magic about it. A good catback will give you the rumble without disturbing the balance of exhaust pressure.
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Old 11-07-2017, 12:04 AM   #16
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Got the Perrin inlet hose, came with a license plate frame, which I swapped the dealership one out for.

During installation, accidentally pulled out the whole piece of the sound tube and no idea how to put the section back that needs to be capped. I read that this is optional?

Cranked it up, no strangeness going on with idle, and OK with a couple revs. Drove it around and noticed 2 things:

1. My normal control of clutch+trottle is no longer accurate in 1st gear. Car dips too low and almost stalls so I gotta give it more gas than I had to. I noticed this after the Stage 1 flash too, so it's only just a little more noticeable now. I'm certain there is no vacuum leak as I carefully connected and tightened those friggin hoses as tight as I could, making sure there is .500" clearance from the hose and serpentine belt. I noticed the OEM inlet had a little extra compartment for extra air to collect and be stored on standby, I presume. I wonder what the pros and cons are for that thing.

2. The engine winding-up/winding-down whistling noise is gone. But in its place is the hollow sound of flowing air in cabin as if I have the AC on when I don't. I'm guessing this is why the tube needs to be capped and not ripped out completely? I need to find out how to put it back so I can remedy this lol :P


I did a couple fast 7K-RPM shifts from 1st to 5th, and man does this thing roar. Smooth transitions after 2nd gear. The torque dip is still there but not as bad, but I notice after the torque dip the car doesn't all of a sudden lunge out at 5K rpms (like v-tec just kicked in!) like it used to. Seems to be more gradual and more consistent. I'm probably mixing more of the aftereffects of the tune into this report for the inlet, though. The tube mod probably doesn't contribute much other than cabin noise.

Though, I regret to say on one of the full open throttle accelerations I attempted I accidentally grinded gears with a partial shifter engagement to 2nd or 3rd, whichever, can't remember. I feel terrible... Maybe I should bump some priority into a quick shifter, maybe... Or stop being lazy and make sure the shifter is where it needs to be before I let off the clutch.
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:28 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Lakitu View Post
Got the Perrin inlet hose, came with a license plate frame, which I swapped the dealership one out for.

During installation, accidentally pulled out the whole piece of the sound tube and no idea how to put the section back that needs to be capped. I read that this is optional?

Cranked it up, no strangeness going on with idle, and OK with a couple revs. Drove it around and noticed 2 things:

1. My normal control of clutch+trottle is no longer accurate in 1st gear. Car dips too low and almost stalls so I gotta give it more gas than I had to. I noticed this after the Stage 1 flash too, so it's only just a little more noticeable now. I'm certain there is no vacuum leak as I carefully connected and tightened those friggin hoses as tight as I could, making sure there is .500" clearance from the hose and serpentine belt. I noticed the OEM inlet had a little extra compartment for extra air to collect and be stored on standby, I presume. I wonder what the pros and cons are for that thing.

2. The engine winding-up/winding-down whistling noise is gone. But in its place is the hollow sound of flowing air in cabin as if I have the AC on when I don't. I'm guessing this is why the tube needs to be capped and not ripped out completely? I need to find out how to put it back so I can remedy this lol :P


I did a couple fast 7K-RPM shifts from 1st to 5th, and man does this thing roar. Smooth transitions after 2nd gear. The torque dip is still there but not as bad, but I notice after the torque dip the car doesn't all of a sudden lunge out at 5K rpms (like v-tec just kicked in!) like it used to. Seems to be more gradual and more consistent. I'm probably mixing more of the aftereffects of the tune into this report for the inlet, though. The tube mod probably doesn't contribute much other than cabin noise.

Though, I regret to say on one of the full open throttle accelerations I attempted I accidentally grinded gears with a partial shifter engagement to 2nd or 3rd, whichever, can't remember. I feel terrible... Maybe I should bump some priority into a quick shifter, maybe... Or stop being lazy and make sure the shifter is where it needs to be before I let off the clutch.
The Perrin inlet does away with the sound tube. You do not need to cap anything. Throw it away (or put it aside with the stock tube). Any sound you are hearing now has nothing to do with the sound tube.
Drive the car a bit and let the ECU change to adjust to the new tube. You can't change parts and expect an immediate response from the ECU.
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:10 AM   #18
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Yeah. Like Tcoat says I think you might be mistaking that the ECU needs a good few I’m to re-adjust itself.

My battery ran flat while I was on holiday... started the car and had that spongy, weird pedal feel for about 50km while everything sorted itself out. Then it was back to normal fun.
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Old 11-20-2017, 01:30 PM   #19
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Well, The smell is gone. I don't know if its because I've been running the heater as its Winter, or because I tuned the car with OFT, or because I took the car in for an oil change. No more waterlogged wooden cabin odors in my cabin!


Thinking About FI

Now that I've had the car for almost a year, I'm becoming curious for a little more power, specifically in the low and medium power bands, and with a budget less than $5,000. I am looking for immediate, readily available boost from 0mph, so centrifugal S/C and turbos are out, leaving twin screw. The Innovate S/C appeals to me at a cost below my budget.

After I finish with the intake (just filter and inlet) and exhaust mods (catless header, dual catted front pipe, catback) with the OFT tune for a gain of +20whp, I should be at 190whp, or 220hp.

After that, I will be looking toward the S/C for a gain of +50whp, putting the car at 240whp, or 270hp.

I feel is fairly modest and would be plenty for my daily driver with the occasional spirited run. Trying to stay on the safe side and remain "almost like OEM" with a notch up in performance, to get past the feeling like I'm constantly trying to catch up with automatics from the red light, and to hopefully cater to engine longevity.

Then I'll pick up a couple stickers for +5hp each to sweeten the deal.


$4,695 Innovate Supercharger complete kit (0.01630hp/$)
173.9whp -> 226.0whp (+52.1whp)
138.3tq -> 180.1tq (+41.8tq)

It's going to be a while before I have 5 grand to drop on this project (2~ years), so I've plenty of time continue to revise what I want as things change.

Last edited by Lakitu; 11-20-2017 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:10 AM   #20
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Installed the header last night, took about 3-4 hours, including a trip to borrow a 14mm deep socket from a friend and waiting for drizzle to stop. Didn't go 100% smoothly but I got it on there nice and snug with the Grimmspeed metal gaskets. Had to use the OEM gasket for the overpipe as the one that came with did not fit up to the stock overpipe. I'm guessing that's for a wider overpipe/frontpipe assembly. Thankfully I was proactive and lined them up before tightening them down, or I'd have had an exhaust leak for sure.

Took the OFT and flashed it to Stage 2+ (not sure what's the difference, maybe Stage 2 is EL and Stage 2+ is UEL?).

No CEL, but have to wait for the ECU to re-learn all over again... (sigh) first two inches of throttle is completely dead, no response at all, and it throws me off.

The sound is very pleasant with my resonated catback, definitely got a "angry growling dog" sound, or I guess we call it "subie rumble". But man, it is LOUD. Downshifting has me feeling uneasy a little bit as someone could get the wrong idea and think I'm revving at them. Finding myself paying more attention to throttle control, trying to shift between 2k and 2.5k rpms for minimum sound lmao. Definitely going for JDL Ultra Quiet / Dual Resonated frontpipe. I like the setup, but there's still more to do!


Two problems that I discovered:

1. The header didn't come with a heat shield wrap for the oil pan, I'm not sure what its called but I've seen a couple videos where people did get one with their header to keep the heat from the exhaust from overheating up the oil pan. Probably need to get one.

2. I noticed that some time after I installed the Perrin inlet hose, on the filter box, the opening where the inlet hose is connected has a dent in it about the size of an index finger. If I have to replace this entire unit I may as well just go cold air intake. Need to figure out a plan for this before anything bad happens....

Last edited by Lakitu; 12-08-2017 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 12-20-2017, 11:18 AM   #21
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GrimmSpeed CAI is installed, also did the snorkel mod, cutting the bottom half. Was annoying to do with a retractable razor knife, but it got it done.

Didn't notice much or any difference. Probably because the intake is performing like-stock because of the OFT tune I have. This is exactly why I went with GrimmSpeed - tested and proven backwards compatibility with no MAF tricks.

Still missing 2 inches of throttle pedal on the press, waiting for that to come back... I'm hoping it does.

I do at least have peace of mind that I've fixed a possible intake leak with the stock intake and Perrin inlet. Will take pictures of the engine bay and the stock intake box.
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Last edited by Lakitu; 12-20-2017 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:50 PM   #22
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Wow. So, I re-flashed Stage 2+ and after 100 miles my car is BACK!! with tight throttle response, even at 6th gear. This is how I imagined the car should feel and it feels amazing, responds to even the slightest throttle tap, not sluggish like before. Having to push the gas pedal in so far down before the car does anything was annoying and just felt wrong. I was cackling like a maniac at how 1st gear hit 7000 rpms so QUICKLY. Now I have to adjust my own reaction time to match the car. This combination of mods is A+ for my needs right now and I couldn't be more happier! More than half way done with what I want to do to it.
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Old 12-26-2017, 01:55 PM   #23
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Some pictures, didn't get any of the FT86 Speedfactory exhaust or the snorkel mod I did. I was able to do it all without removing the front bumper. I am absolutely loving this setup.





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Old 05-03-2018, 05:46 PM   #24
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Talking

New wheels with new tires are finally on, and what a difference in driving feel.





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Old 05-03-2018, 07:02 PM   #25
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I'm starting to think I'm the only person who doesn't like those Firestone Indy 500 tires.

Great wheel choice though. Can't go wrong with Enkei.
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Old 05-03-2018, 09:45 PM   #26
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I'm starting to think I'm the only person who doesn't like those Firestone Indy 500 tires.

Great wheel choice though. Can't go wrong with Enkei.
I didn't know anyone hated these lol. They're rated pretty highly on tirerack, and I knew I could get them on credit directly from Firestone. And now I can immediately buy coilovers without waiting for next pay. The car feels so much more different than when it was on those HP Primacy. The ride feels more smooth with less vibration, less tire noise, feels more planted and stable on the road, less rolling resistance, and looks fairly more aggressive to boot. Lots of wins! I'm really happy with my build path so far.
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:10 PM   #27
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I didn't know anyone hated these lol. They're rated pretty highly on tirerack, and I knew I could get them on credit directly from Firestone. And now I can immediately buy coilovers without waiting for next pay. The car feels so much more different than when it was on those HP Primacy. The ride feels more smooth with less vibration, less tire noise, feels more planted and stable on the road, less rolling resistance, and looks fairly more aggressive to boot. Lots of wins! I'm really happy with my build path so far.
I have the same tires and found them louder than stock, but it could be that I have some poly bushings in the rear. They're stickier than stock so the rolling resistance would be higher, I would imagine.

Nice build so far. Looks good.
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Old 05-04-2018, 01:12 AM   #28
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Any plans to lower?
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