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Old 03-17-2016, 02:47 AM   #15
thecarfilmer
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don't?
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:43 AM   #16
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Did I think this thread through before making it?
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:10 AM   #17
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Did I think this thread through before making it?
lols
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:35 AM   #18
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No.

what should I eat as a snack?
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:18 AM   #19
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Why am I the only one that has answered properly so far?
(Snooze does not count because he was playing with himself)
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:27 AM   #20
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Okay, okay. It's Nevermore to the rescue.


My application is like 99% DD so I know a lot of aggressive modding isn't necessary, but there's still some stuff I want to do. I know nothing about tuning and the last time I asked a question in the subforum it didn't end well, so my question here is pretty simple. I had always thought I was going to have a custom dyno tune from a shop, but it's looking like that might be too expensive, and pointless for my application. Would it make more sense for someone like me to just get like OFT or something along those lines and use their premade maps?
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevermore View Post
Okay, okay. It's Nevermore to the rescue.


My application is like 99% DD so I know a lot of aggressive modding isn't necessary, but there's still some stuff I want to do. I know nothing about tuning and the last time I asked a question in the subforum it didn't end well, so my question here is pretty simple. I had always thought I was going to have a custom dyno tune from a shop, but it's looking like that might be too expensive, and pointless for my application. Would it make more sense for someone like me to just get like OFT or something along those lines and use their premade maps?
Answer:

For someone like you who has no tuning experience I would recommend an off the shelf open flash tablet tune. Its basically plug and play so its easy for you to do. If you still think oneday you might want a custom dyno tune I would recommend ECUTEK. It is a litte more advanced but has a few more features and more tuners support it.

TL;DR:
Yes get OFT


Random comment:
Come on guys this thread/game will be fun if we all try.
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This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:10 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by go_a_way1 View Post
Answer:

For someone like you who has no tuning experience I would recommend an off the shelf open flash tablet tune. Its basically plug and play so its easy for you to do. If you still think oneday you might want a custom dyno tune I would recommend ECUTEK. It is a litte more advanced but has a few more features and more tuners support it.

TL;DR:
Yes get OFT


Random comment:
Come on guys this thread/game will be fun if we all try.

He gets a +1.


Next question involves camber. I am planning on using springs (RCE yellows) and will be getting camber bolts in case I need adjustments. My question is this, the rear is not adjustable with LCA, and I don't want to buy them, so should I just have the shop doing the alignment zero out the toe (seen this mentioned numerous times) and match the front camber to whatever the rear lands at, or are the front and rear supposed to have different amounts of camber? I'd think it should be square.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevermore View Post
He gets a +1.


Next question involves camber. I am planning on using springs (RCE yellows) and will be getting camber bolts in case I need adjustments. My question is this, the rear is not adjustable with LCA, and I don't want to buy them, so should I just have the shop doing the alignment zero out the toe (seen this mentioned numerous times) and match the front camber to whatever the rear lands at, or are the front and rear supposed to have different amounts of camber? I'd think it should be square.
Okay you will get camber in the rear just from the drop but it shouldn't be too much. You will want more negative camber in the front then in the rear. More front camber vs rear = oversteer, more camber rear vs front = more understeer. Thats why the factory alignment calls for more rear camber then front, its a safety thing for normal drivers. You also want 0 toe for tire wear on a DD.

TL;DR Go with more front camber then rear if you can for better response and handling
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Originally Posted by 1GiantTurtle View Post
This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcoat View Post
Why am I the only one that has answered properly so far?
(Snooze does not count because he was playing with himself)
I answered Guff's question too (you can have more then 1 answer)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevermore View Post
He gets a +1.


Next question involves camber. I am planning on using springs (RCE yellows) and will be getting camber bolts in case I need adjustments. My question is this, the rear is not adjustable with LCA, and I don't want to buy them, so should I just have the shop doing the alignment zero out the toe (seen this mentioned numerous times) and match the front camber to whatever the rear lands at, or are the front and rear supposed to have different amounts of camber? I'd think it should be square.
You need more camber up front, but running similar camber front/rear is fine. Get SPC camber bolts and run them up front with around -2 degrees. The rear should be a little less dropped on Yellows. Just get the alignment and post the specs but I would think you will be good woth that (I was on Yellows and so are many other people). And yes zero toe
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by go_a_way1 View Post
Okay you will get camber in the rear just from the drop but it shouldn't be too much. You will want more negative camber in the front then in the rear. More front camber vs rear = oversteer, more camber rear vs front = more understeer. Thats why the factory alignment calls for more rear camber then front, its a safety thing for normal drivers. You also want 0 toe for tire wear on a DD.

TL;DR Go with more front camber then rear if you can for better response and handling
Quote:
Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
You need more camber up front, but running similar camber front/rear is fine. Get SPC camber bolts and run them up front with around -2 degrees. The rear should be a little less dropped on Yellows. Just get the alignment and post the specs but I would think you will be good woth that (I was on Yellows and so are many other people). And yes zero toe
I didn't make the thread, nor do I know all the rules, but I'm going to say they both get +1.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:51 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevermore View Post
I didn't make the thread, nor do I know all the rules, but I'm going to say they both get +1.
Points are all made up just for fun and we arent keeping track. This is a good place for people like me to help people like you with random small questions like those
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Quote:
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This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:54 PM   #27
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How do I properly quote a message on this forum?
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Snooze View Post
Does answering your own question count?
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:54 PM   #28
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What should I have for lunch today?
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What are you talking about? You just killed one of the worst brands in history according to enthusiasts. People will be worshipping you like sheep.
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