Whistling When Pressing Clutch

[Ultramaroon]

The kit uses a larger bearing with an ID to fit the sleeve. I'm looking forward to installing mine someday.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by soundman98

I found it via a thread here somewhere. I just like the idea of getting a more durable metal on the trans snout. And more importantly, the sleeve is replaceable/sacrificial. If
the snout is aluminum, and the bearing is steel, it's just asking for galling up the snout, bad bearing or not.

The thread had indicated they re-stamped a Toyota throw out bearing for the kit. I'll see if I can find it.


I'm currently at 55k, so I'm getting to the point of starting to order stuff for the 60k service. I'm starting to consider doing this as well just to get it out of the way.

The case and snout that the bearing run on are are very soft. So soft that I was actually surprised when looking at mine. Even with a good bearing there is no way they don't wear out before the bearing it self. If or when (the FRS is the first car I ever had that had a failed or even worn out TOB) this piece will be a must have! The price is a pittance compared to the costs it could save.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

The case and snout that the bearing run on are are very soft. So soft that I was actually surprised when looking at mine. Even with a good bearing there is no way they don't wear out before the bearing it self. If or when (the FRS is the first car I ever had that had a failed or even worn out TOB) this piece will be a must have! The price is a pittance compared to the costs it could save.

That retainer cover is replaceable at $70 for the part. More work if you have to do it again, but it's not getting a whole new case.

I wonder why nobody makes a machined retainer cover out of a harder material... [CoughVerusCough]

[soundman98]

lol, well someone does. pdm. they're offering a solution, but they're also attempting to corner the market with rebranding oem toyota parts for the bearing. which is the part that i really don't like, and would spend extra with a different company willing to be more open on the situation just selling the sleeve and stating which bearing works with it.

if pdm sold just the sleeve for the $150 with a note about which bearing, or even included an oem-packaged bearing, i'd already have ordered it. it's the sneaky 'buy our bearing' thing and it's an oem part with sandpaper marks and someone hand-etching the part number in it that really gets under my skin.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by soundman98

lol, well someone does. pdm. they're offering a solution, but they're also attempting to corner the market with rebranding oem toyota parts for the bearing. which is the part that i really don't like, and would spend extra with a different company willing to be more open on the situation just selling the sleeve and stating which bearing works with it.

if pdm sold just the sleeve for the $150 with a note about which bearing, or even included an oem-packaged bearing, i'd already have ordered it. it's the sneaky 'buy our bearing' thing and it's an oem part with sandpaper marks and someone hand-etching the part number in it that really gets under my skin.

I was talking about the whole cover so that you could use the regular bearing and not worry about compatibility with clutches etc. Would probably be like ~$400 to do though lol.

That is my hesitation as well.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by soundman98

lol, well someone does. pdm. they're offering a solution, but they're also attempting to corner the market with rebranding oem toyota parts for the bearing. which is the part that i really don't like, and would spend extra with a different company willing to be more open on the situation just selling the sleeve and stating which bearing works with it.

if pdm sold just the sleeve for the $150 with a note about which bearing, or even included an oem-packaged bearing, i'd already have ordered it. it's the sneaky 'buy our bearing' thing and it's an oem part with sandpaper marks and someone hand-etching the part number in it that really gets under my skin.

I don't think they are being underhanded in any way. The kit fits many Subaru's so to just say "go get this Toyota TOB and alter it like this" would be confusing to may customers. Besides many many aftermarket parts are just reworked stock anyway.

Originally Posted by Spuds

I was talking about the whole cover so that you could use the regular bearing and not worry about compatibility with clutches etc. Would probably be like ~$400 to do though lol.

That is my hesitation as well.

To make the whole cover out of a harder material would mean extensive milling and machine work. Not a hope in hell it would sell for as little as $400. Especially in the the quantities that would get made.

I would have no qualms using this product but then I have no delusions that all products need to be or are specially made.

[Ultramaroon]

It's a modified version of this unit. The original part number is still etched to the case. Blocks are welded to the inboard sides of the ears to close the gap. That's all.

[Spuds]

Ordered the tsk1. Verus clutch bits will be ordered as soon as I can decide what color LCA to get. (Yes, I am stuck on what color a part that no one sees will be).

It's reasonable to order a friction plate, pressure plate, and pilot bearing while I'm at it right?

I'll report back when I get stuff installed.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Ordered the tsk1. Verus clutch bits will be ordered as soon as I can decide what color LCA to get. (Yes, I am stuck on what color a part that no one sees will be).

It's reasonable to order a friction plate, pressure plate, and pilot bearing while I'm at it right?

I'll report back when I get stuff installed.

Because I'm confident in my clutch, unless I see obvious fretting of the pressure plate fingers, I'd leave it. If the alignment tool really is as shitty as people say, it would avoid some unnecessary frustration.

Personally, I've never had trouble massaging a disc into place with those plastic tools. It just takes some feel and patience.

[Sapphireho]

Now I whistle every time I press the clutch.

[Ultramaroon]

[Sapphireho]

[Spuds]

Well, I can say for certain the PDM TSK1 will NOT work with the Verus clutch fork. The clip types are different. The OEM fork would probably work, as the clips on the TSK slide into the backside of the arms. The Verus fork, being solid, does not have any place for the clip to go. Note that the holes in the back of the Verus are not aligned to allow this clip to work, even if the arms were thin enough. See attached image.

Now I need to pick which to keep. TSK1 is the more practical choice as I can just reuse the oem fork right now. But I like the Verus fork, and I am second guessing not ordering/installing a new clutch while I have the transmission off so that will give me an excuse to wait for it.

[Ultramaroon]

I'm not suggesting "do it this way." I'm just sharing, FWIW. If a verus fork dropped into my lap, here's how I'd play it.

There are two critical flaws in the factory design.
1. The main pivot begins to creak - a violent event given the forces involved - when the socket wears into the flat face of the ball deeply enough. No amount of lube prevents that.
2. The center bushing of the TOB and that quill are a shit combination. When the fretting gets deep enough, they bind.

If the verus ball is fully spherical, I'd modify the verus fork to fit the tsk bearing.

Otherwise, I'd modify the old fork the same way I did the last time I had mine apart. I used a dremel to grind out enough of the center of the socket so none of it ever comes into contact with the flat part of the ball. It has cured the creak.