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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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03-07-2016, 01:05 PM | #15 |
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I tow using the factory hooks in the front and straps through the wheels in the rear. Those Rennline hooks that @IPGJames linked to look interesting though. I may pickup a set now that I know they exist.
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03-07-2016, 11:42 PM | #16 |
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I used the factory recommended spots. T hooks thru the oval hole
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03-08-2016, 12:15 PM | #17 |
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I may look at that. I have strapped down some friend's domestic cars with T-hooks in the chassis slots, but haven't thought about that on the FR-S. Prior to now, I have owned only cars with factory eye hooks on all four corners.
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03-08-2016, 12:18 PM | #18 |
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Every time I come in here, I quickly scroll down the page to see a picture of an 86 strapped down to a trailer. Nothing yet. Just because...
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03-08-2016, 04:45 PM | #19 |
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ok posting some
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03-08-2016, 05:46 PM | #20 |
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Some images where you can sort of see how I strapped down the car:
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03-08-2016, 08:09 PM | #21 |
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You guys have some really nice trailers. I wish we had better options here.
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03-08-2016, 08:55 PM | #22 |
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note several straps to the back, you can control how fast you accelerate but not how fast it maybe necessary to stop.
trailer is a rollback, the axels move to the front of the trailer for load and unload. very handy for very low cars. |
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03-10-2016, 09:59 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
I leave the car out of gear, and pull the e-brake. Hookup to the factory hooks in front, use T-Hooks in the rear with the straps pulled straight forward and straight backward. I just did a trip from Orlando to VIR for a Chin event this past weekend and didn't have to touch the straps once on stops. T-Hooks here: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_43572_43572
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03-10-2016, 10:04 PM | #24 |
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You want straps that have this sort of end on them to fit both the factory front mount hooks and the T-hooks. Regular tow straps do not fit. These also have a spring loaded closure so they stay attached even if you get a little slack in them. The link posted above to the Summit straps with the ratchet mechanism at the far end is a good idea. It keeps you from trying to operate the ratchet mechanism as it gets close to or under the front or rear of the car. I plan to pickup a setup of those but I think I may need more than 6' in length to use the t-hook setup in the rear.
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03-11-2016, 09:39 AM | #25 |
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What is everyone's thoughts on gettign custom lenght straps made, with out ratches. Just straight strap with the appropriate ends for the front, then having ratchet straps on the rear?
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03-11-2016, 10:13 AM | #26 |
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Not a good idea. If the car isn't straight, one of the straps will have slack. To unload the car, you're going to have to move the car forward to get slack in the straps. You're just making more work for yourself. Since I load the car with the parking brake on, I just pop my straps loose all around and I'm ready to back the car off. If you're trying to get the car in the same spot on the trailer each time, rather than use straps of a defined length, put something on the trailer that you pull up to and against with the front tire. See the picture above for someone who did just that. I didn't even go that far. I marked a spot on my trailer and I put something on it that I pull up against. Then I toss it back in my trailer box.
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03-11-2016, 12:22 PM | #27 |
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I use axle straps wrapped in soft covers through the wheels.
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03-11-2016, 08:23 PM | #28 |
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Be careful with the Macs strap I linked to earlier.
They are the greatest strap quality, but the hook are a little too big for the front transport "loop" under the front. they do hook and close but they are very thick and when you add tension to the strap they will not be able to stay aligned with the strap, they will be "trapped inside the transport hook" . I'll try to get a pic to illustrate. Hard to explain
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