Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[brzest]

WOW! Just finished reading through the entire 127 pages in the last two days, VERY informative, big thanks to everyone, specially @CSG Mike !

However...I still have a few questions

1. I read I should start with a completely stock car, to understand what I need to change (aside from brakes). Would you also not suggest camber bolts at first?

2. About the Essex Sprint kit - I saw that it’s not recommended for areas that get snow/salt? But then later I saw that there are options for dust boots and painted calipers? Obviously very far away from a BBK (still a month before my car is delivered ), but I like to plan ahead. Or would there still be a better kit for a place that sees snow probably 5 months a year and the answer to every problem on the road seems to be salt

3. Was thinking getting XP10 front and XP8 rear, but I see @CSG Mike recommending 1 compound. So are XP10's the way to go for my first track pad? I have no experienc with the BRZ, 5-6 trackdays in an MX5 4-5 years ago. The pads are expensive (have to pay extra shipping to halfway across the world + 20% VAT + custom duties on top of the price), so would like to get the "best" possible one that would last as long as possible right away.

4. Thoughts on the Forester oil cooler using the coolant? I like it because it also heats up the oil in the beginning (good for cold climates), wondering if the cooling is enough though? Obviously it won't be as much as the other coolers, but will the cooling effect still be noticeable?

5. About the AIM Solo DL - is there a way to display the lap times with say oil temp when on the track? I was thinking of getting the Pivot DXW water/oil/intake tamp gauge, but I can't use both since they both use the OBD II port? Would really like to keep track of both the oil temp and lap times, while keeping data logging. Any way to do this?

Thanks!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DatApex

Only a single session (EDIT: Only a single video, that is, I had about 6 sessions that day). My last event was in the soaking wet so there was a fairly heavy "reliance" on ABS as it was nearly impossible to not have it engage with how wet it was out. That's interesting, though, I didn't know that ABS could cause that kind of pad overheat. I never noticed any sort of fade or lack of bite in the pads the whole day. Here's the vid:

Your input in this video is very digital. I can see the separation between when you're braking, not braking, corner entry, corner exit, etc.

Focus on being smoother and blending your inputs to be more efficient with your tire's grip.

Remember that if ABS is kicking in, you've exceeded your tire's grip. Adapting to the available grip is especially important for driving in the rain. Test your brakes and practice threshold braking to both maximize your braking performance, as well as your brake pad life.

[sstfnv]

Originally Posted by brzest

WOW! Just finished reading through the entire 127 pages in the last two days, VERY informative, big thanks to everyone, specially @CSG Mike !

However...I still have a few questions

1. I read I should start with a completely stock car, to understand what I need to change (aside from brakes). Would you also not suggest camber bolts at first?

2. About the Essex Sprint kit - I saw that it’s not recommended for areas that get snow/salt? But then later I saw that there are options for dust boots and painted calipers? Obviously very far away from a BBK (still a month before my car is delivered ), but I like to plan ahead. Or would there still be a better kit for a place that sees snow probably 5 months a year and the answer to every problem on the road seems to be salt

3. Was thinking getting XP10 front and XP8 rear, but I see @CSG Mike recommending 1 compound. So are XP10's the way to go for my first track pad? I have no experienc with the BRZ, 5-6 trackdays in an MX5 4-5 years ago. The pads are expensive (have to pay extra shipping to halfway across the world + 20% VAT + custom duties on top of the price), so would like to get the "best" possible one that would last as long as possible right away.

4. Thoughts on the Forester oil cooler using the coolant? I like it because it also heats up the oil in the beginning (good for cold climates), wondering if the cooling is enough though? Obviously it won't be as much as the other coolers, but will the cooling effect still be noticeable?

5. About the AIM Solo DL - is there a way to display the lap times with say oil temp when on the track? I was thinking of getting the Pivot DXW water/oil/intake tamp gauge, but I can't use both since they both use the OBD II port? Would really like to keep track of both the oil temp and lap times, while keeping data logging. Any way to do this?

Thanks!

Here is what I could answer:

3. I ran XP10 front and rear on stock suspension on my FRS and the car felt perfectly happy.

4. You are right about the forester oil cooler. I chose it for the same reasons and also was worried about adding additional points of failure by adding oil lines to the cooler.

5. Yes, you can configure a few custom screens on the AIM Solo DL to display whatever parameters you want including combinations of lap times and oil temperature.

[DatApex]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Your input in this video is very digital. I can see the separation between when you're braking, not braking, corner entry, corner exit, etc.

Focus on being smoother and blending your inputs to be more efficient with your tire's grip.

Remember that if ABS is kicking in, you've exceeded your tire's grip. Adapting to the available grip is especially important for driving in the rain. Test your brakes and practice threshold braking to both maximize your braking performance, as well as your brake pad life.

First time I'd ever been on the track in the wet, so was more or less taking it easy. Any amount of pedal pressure would cause ABS to kick in as the surface was so slick, so I eventually said fuck it and just did what I could.

Any thoughts on the other questions?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DatApex

First time I'd ever been on the track in the wet, so was more or less taking it easy. Any amount of pedal pressure would cause ABS to kick in as the surface was so slick, so I eventually said fuck it and just did what I could.

Any thoughts on the other questions?

If you get less heat into the pads with a few driving technique alterations, you'll be fine until you get to a fairly advanced level, even with more power.

The glazing/crumbling is a result of you overheating the pads, but not badly enough to cause the pads to completely fade. The use of ABS is preventing you from being able to accurately gauge how much pressure is actually necessary to get the Mu you need to stop at a given rate.

I'd say report back with a picture of the pads after another dry track day, and I can better gauge if you need to get a BBK now, or can get away with the stock calipers for a while longer.

[DatApex]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you get less heat into the pads with a few driving technique alterations, you'll be fine until you get to a fairly advanced level, even with more power.

The glazing/crumbling is a result of you overheating the pads, but not badly enough to cause the pads to completely fade. The use of ABS is preventing you from being able to accurately gauge how much pressure is actually necessary to get the Mu you need to stop at a given rate.

I'd say report back with a picture of the pads after another dry track day, and I can better gauge if you need to get a BBK now, or can get away with the stock calipers for a while longer.

Will do! I never have much issue fighting ABS in the dry, I've just never driven a soaking wet track before so was a bit out of my comfort zone for sure.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DatApex

Will do! I never have much issue fighting ABS in the dry, I've just never driven a soaking wet track before so was a bit out of my comfort zone for sure.

Wet track days are far more fun; it brings the limit of grip down to a level where you can explore them at much, much slower (and safer) speeds.

[brzest]

Originally Posted by sstfnv

Here is what I could answer:

3. I ran XP10 front and rear on stock suspension on my FRS and the car felt perfectly happy.

4. You are right about the forester oil cooler. I chose it for the same reasons and also was worried about adding additional points of failure by adding oil lines to the cooler.

5. Yes, you can configure a few custom screens on the AIM Solo DL to display whatever parameters you want including combinations of lap times and oil temperature.

Thanks @sstfnv!

So you've seen a noticeable drop in oil temps on the track, using the Forester oil cooler?

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Wet track days are far more fun; it brings the limit of grip down to a level where you can explore them at much, much slower (and safer) speeds.

I wouldn't say more fun, but it definitely forces you to work on technique and smooth inputs.


Especially when you're on heat cycled 4 year old R888s!

[Fish Eagle]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

I wouldn't say more fun, but it definitely forces you to work on technique and smooth inputs.
Especially when you're on heat cycled 4 year old R888s!

This was on very much end-of-lifespan RE11S semis. What a hoot.
All my mates spun off at least once in this torrential downpour, but I didn't!! LOL

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by brzest

Thanks @sstfnv!

So you've seen a noticeable drop in oil temps on the track, using the Forester oil cooler?

In our experience, the Forester cooler is not enough, unless you're running in cold weather, and are leaving the heater on maximum, in which case it's marginal (~130C oil temps).

[sstfnv]

Originally Posted by brzest

Thanks @sstfnv!

So you've seen a noticeable drop in oil temps on the track, using the Forester oil cooler?

I haven't tracked the car without an oil cooler. With the forester oil cooler and stock power the highest oil temperature I've seen in the logs was 250F(121 C) and that was on 65F(18 C) ambient temp.

If you have more power I would go with a more efficient oil cooler but for stock power you can get away with the forester cooler and some good oil.

[Cop]

Any recommended books to read for driving? I'm in the middle of reading Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley but was wondering if there were any other books you guys thought were useful.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Cop

Any recommended books to read for driving? I'm in the middle of reading Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley but was wondering if there were any other books you guys thought were useful.

Think less, and drive more. Everyone can theorycraft, and mentally practice, but none of it can make up for seat time.

Even Gran Turismo in simulation mode will be more useful than books. The first time you spin at 80mph, you're gonna be far too busy with watching where you're going to be able to apply the theory you read about.