CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Brzerker]

Don't want to start a new topic for this, I hope this is an appropriate place to ask this.

What's the length of the stock front endlink?

Thanks

[ja1217]

So I'm looking into taking a serious run at NASA East Coast Nationals in TTD either this year or next, and in order to fully optimize my car to the rules I've come to realize that I will need the 3 extra points that my Ohlins R&T setup is costing me (shaft diameter > 40mm and inverted front shocks). The Ohlins were great on both the street and track (especially after getting them custom revalved and sprung for the track), but those 3 points +1 more point for going back to stock intake gets me back onto Hoosier R7s.

E. SUSPENSION:
1) Non-BTM shocks/struts/dampers with an external reservoir or more than two ranges of
adjustment—must still take points for springs below +8 (example: compression (bump)
and both high & low rebound adjustments).
2) Non-BTM shocks/struts/dampers with a “Piggy Back” external reservoir (fixed reservoir
without a connecting hose) OR with shaft diameter 40mm or greater—must still take
additional points for the springs below +5
3) Non-BTM or modified/re-valved shocks/struts/dampers +3 (all others)(springs not included)
4) Changing the mounting orientation/design of the BTM shock and/or spring perch in order to
invert the front shocks/struts (includes non-BTM inverted shocks/struts) +1

So basically I'm trying to figure out what my best options are for what would be a high quality, track focused 3 point damper according to these rules. In my quick searching it seems that the majority of high end coilovers either have piggy back/external reservoir, are inverted and have shafts greater than 40mm, or both. A couple of ones that I've seen that might be options are KWv3 2 way adjustable clubsports and JRZ RS1's. These are rather on the high side for what I'd like to spend, but I am still open to these if they truly are worth the money.

Spring rates and valving will most likely end up being custom. Car will be run with stock sway bars and stock control arms and the primary tire will be 225/40R17 Hoosier R7.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ja1217

So I'm looking into taking a serious run at NASA East Coast Nationals in TTD either this year or next, and in order to fully optimize my car to the rules I've come to realize that I will need the 3 extra points that my Ohlins R&T setup is costing me (shaft diameter > 40mm and inverted front shocks). The Ohlins were great on both the street and track (especially after getting them custom revalved and sprung for the track), but those 3 points +1 more point for going back to stock intake gets me back onto Hoosier R7s.



So basically I'm trying to figure out what my best options are for what would be a high quality, track focused 3 point damper according to these rules. In my quick searching it seems that the majority of high end coilovers either have piggy back/external reservoir, are inverted and have shafts greater than 40mm, or both. A couple of ones that I've seen that might be options are KWv3 2 way adjustable clubsports and JRZ RS1's. These are rather on the high side for what I'd like to spend, but I am still open to these if they truly are worth the money.

Spring rates and valving will most likely end up being custom. Car will be run with stock sway bars and stock control arms and the primary tire will be 225/40R17 Hoosier R7.

That inverted shock + shaft rule is so ridiculous. The actual shock shaft is NOT 40mm but NASA won't listen. Anyway...

JRZ if you can fit them in the budget.

Our RCE T2 clubsports would work well too at a lower cost (built by KW, starting from KW Clubsports but at a lower cost). Our T3 Clubsports would be great but have a piggyback canister.

Give us a call if you'd like to talk. We're in MD as well and have run many set-ups on our BRZ. We also helped JRZ with some development work and testing with their coilovers for BRZ early on. Myles will have their newer RS line on his 2015 WRX very soon if you want a ride.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Brzerker

Don't want to start a new topic for this, I hope this is an appropriate place to ask this.

What's the length of the stock front endlink?

Thanks

Haven't had my hand on a stock endlink in a while.

Best would be to just get under your car and check it out.

- Andy

[BigFatFlip]

Wow, I can't believe I just read through all 113 pages (took me a couple weeks). Thank you @CSG Mike and @Racecomp Engineering for fielding everybody's questions! I have learned alot.

Now, I belong to the very small group of wanting/needing stock ride height (maybe even higher) thanks to the area I live in. I've been very happy with the stock suspension but have been trying to find more adjustable options. I don't claim to know what I'm doing so I've been leaning towards a single adjustable set-up, particularly the Ohlins R&T and the Bilstein B16's. Any other recommendations? If it ain't broke don't fix it (ie stay stock)?

Now for the pertinent info everyone seems to ask:
90% street (including canyon/twisties) 10% track day
I'm currently on 225/45-17 RE11A's (to eek out a few mm of additional height)
Only other suspension mod is a WRX rear sway bar (16mm) and front camber bolts

cheers!
-Bryan

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Wow, I can't believe I just read through all 113 pages (took me a couple weeks). Thank you @CSG Mike and @Racecomp Engineering for fielding everybody's questions! I have learned alot.

Now, I belong to the very small group of wanting/needing stock ride height (maybe even higher) thanks to the area I live in. I've been very happy with the stock suspension but have been trying to find more adjustable options. I don't claim to know what I'm doing so I've been leaning towards a single adjustable set-up, particularly the Ohlins R&T and the Bilstein B16's. Any other recommendations? If it ain't broke don't fix it (ie stay stock)?

Now for the pertinent info everyone seems to ask:
90% street (including canyon/twisties) 10% track day
I'm currently on 225/45-17 RE11A's (to eek out a few mm of additional height)
Only other suspension mod is a WRX rear sway bar (16mm) and front camber bolts

cheers!
-Bryan

Hey Bryan,

Glad to hear that people are reading through this full thread.

Why the desire to stay stock height or higher?

What type of improvement are you looking for specifically?

- Andrew

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ja1217

So I'm looking into taking a serious run at NASA East Coast Nationals in TTD either this year or next, and in order to fully optimize my car to the rules I've come to realize that I will need the 3 extra points that my Ohlins R&T setup is costing me (shaft diameter > 40mm and inverted front shocks). The Ohlins were great on both the street and track (especially after getting them custom revalved and sprung for the track), but those 3 points +1 more point for going back to stock intake gets me back onto Hoosier R7s.



So basically I'm trying to figure out what my best options are for what would be a high quality, track focused 3 point damper according to these rules. In my quick searching it seems that the majority of high end coilovers either have piggy back/external reservoir, are inverted and have shafts greater than 40mm, or both. A couple of ones that I've seen that might be options are KWv3 2 way adjustable clubsports and JRZ RS1's. These are rather on the high side for what I'd like to spend, but I am still open to these if they truly are worth the money.

Spring rates and valving will most likely end up being custom. Car will be run with stock sway bars and stock control arms and the primary tire will be 225/40R17 Hoosier R7.

Any top shelf custom valved 1 way would get the job. Do you have a local dealer that can do something like that for you? Have you considered downsizing the tires to a 215 or even a 205 to get some more points?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

Wow, I can't believe I just read through all 113 pages (took me a couple weeks). Thank you @CSG Mike and @Racecomp Engineering for fielding everybody's questions! I have learned alot.

Now, I belong to the very small group of wanting/needing stock ride height (maybe even higher) thanks to the area I live in. I've been very happy with the stock suspension but have been trying to find more adjustable options. I don't claim to know what I'm doing so I've been leaning towards a single adjustable set-up, particularly the Ohlins R&T and the Bilstein B16's. Any other recommendations? If it ain't broke don't fix it (ie stay stock)?

Now for the pertinent info everyone seems to ask:
90% street (including canyon/twisties) 10% track day
I'm currently on 225/45-17 RE11A's (to eek out a few mm of additional height)
Only other suspension mod is a WRX rear sway bar (16mm) and front camber bolts

cheers!
-Bryan

Now that's an unusual request; most coilovers will force you to drop a bit to get full droop travel. If it's due to rough roads, keep in mind that better dampers will also absorb the road better, so unless you're flying over potholes, you shouldn't have any issues. If it's tough driveways... well... there's not really a fix for that

You can also get a 235/45/17 in some tires to get even MORE height.

[SimplePortal]

Is there any significant difference between the OEM crash bolt and the SPC Camber Bolt Kit? Does one add more camber than the other? Or is one safer to use than the other?

[D_Thissen]

Originally Posted by SimplePortal

Is there any significant difference between the OEM crash bolt and the SPC Camber Bolt Kit? Does one add more camber than the other? Or is one safer to use than the other?

The OEM bolts are just a 14mm bolt. The SPC camber bolts have a cam lobe (see picture)that can be used to dial in how much camber you want. I have the SPC (or whiteline) bolts on my FRS and have had zero problems.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Any top shelf custom valved 1 way would get the job. Do you have a local dealer that can do something like that for you? Have you considered downsizing the tires to a 215 or even a 205 to get some more points?

I've considered it, but I think the 225 R7 is the tire to run. Also, right now Hoosier doesn't offer anything smaller than a 225 in a 17 inch tire. I'm not sure anything else would really be worth the points either.

My theoretical setup with 3 point dampers:

+5 Exhaust (header/overpipe/frontpipe)
+3 Dampers
+2 Springs
+6 Tires (225 Hoosier R7)
+2 BBK (I know everyone says that BBK isn't worth the points in TT, but I think my AP Sprint Kit might still be my favorite mod to the car)
+1 LSD (Cusco RS)
+0 E85 tune
-----------------------------------
19 points total (max in class) and I would probably be bumping right up against the max power to weight ratio for TTD as well.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

That inverted shock + shaft rule is so ridiculous. The actual shock shaft is NOT 40mm but NASA won't listen. Anyway...

JRZ if you can fit them in the budget.

Our RCE T2 clubsports would work well too at a lower cost (built by KW, starting from KW Clubsports but at a lower cost). Our T3 Clubsports would be great but have a piggyback canister.

Give us a call if you'd like to talk. We're in MD as well and have run many set-ups on our BRZ. We also helped JRZ with some development work and testing with their coilovers for BRZ early on. Myles will have their newer RS line on his 2015 WRX very soon if you want a ride.

- Andy

Totally agree about the inverted strut/40mm rule and a tried to plead my case on the NASA forums, but no luck. Your T3 Clubsports were actually what I looked at first, but they I saw the piggyback canisters

I think I might have to give you guys a call when I'm ready to make the jump. JRZ RS1's are looking like it might be the one to go for, but still want to look around a bit more and I would need to sell my Ohlins first.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ja1217

I've considered it, but I think the 225 R7 is the tire to run. Also, right now Hoosier doesn't offer anything smaller than a 225 in a 17 inch tire. I'm not sure anything else would really be worth the points either.

My theoretical setup with 3 point dampers:

+5 Exhaust (header/overpipe/frontpipe)
+3 Dampers
+2 Springs
+6 Tires (225 Hoosier R7)
+2 BBK (I know everyone says that BBK isn't worth the points in TT, but I think my AP Sprint Kit might still be my favorite mod to the car)
+1 LSD (Cusco RS)
+0 E85 tune
-----------------------------------
19 points total (max in class) and I would probably be bumping right up against the max power to weight ratio for TTD as well.

That sounds pretty good to me. Are bushings free?

- Andy

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

That sounds pretty good to me. Are bushings free?

- Andy

Some bushings are. I've already done engine mounts, whiteline rear crossmember inserts, shift bushing and diff cradle. Other free mods include DSS CF driveshaft, ACT Prolite clutch/flywheel. I'm probably forgetting some others too.