Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

The snorkel is the tube right behind the bumper it feeds "cold air" into the intake.

Got ya. While we're (or I'm) on the subject of the airbox, I was thinking "what is the purpose of plugging the hole that is exposed by removing the resonator?" The hole is before the filter so any air that it does suck in will be filtered before it enters the intake. It seems to me that it is a way of allowing additional air into the system.

Any of the other beta's run without the plug in the airbox?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Got ya. While we're (or I'm) on the subject of the airbox, I was thinking "what is the purpose of plugging the hole that is exposed by removing the resonator?" The hole is before the filter so any air that it does suck in will be filtered before it enters the intake. It seems to me that it is a way of allowing additional air into the system.

Any of the other beta's run without the plug in the airbox?

Interesting idea. I think that resonator is actually a potential air box. (Is there such a thing) Where the intake will suck in extra air when needed. Since the intake hole is fairly small. Maybe opening that up would allow more air flow. No worse then what I'm doing right now with no snorkel.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

I'm at my car right now. Let's get this code triggered. Tell me what to do.

Just turn it to on... Not running.... Then arm the system.... Then go wot for 3 to 4 seconds. After that once again u Starr the car you will probably have the cel.

Also do you hear it running when wot. It should be quite loud.

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[fenton]

I don't see why you want to trip the cel though lol. How does it feel when driving it?

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[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by fenton

Just turn it to on... Not running.... Then arm the system.... Then go wot for 3 to 4 seconds. After that once again u Starr the car you will probably have the cel.

Also do you hear it running when wot. It should be quite loud.

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While driving or when the engine is off? While driving I don't hear it. When the engine is off I hear it easily.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

While driving or when the engine is off? While driving I don't hear it. When the engine off I hear it easily.

Well that's good... I thought for a minute it wasn't working at all for you.

The tq250 you don't really hear.... The tq300 however makes quite a bit of noise.

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[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by fenton

Just turn it to on... Not running.... Then arm the system.... Then go wot for 3 to 4 seconds. After that once again u Starr the car you will probably have the cel.

Also do you hear it running when wot. It should be quite loud.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

No cel.

[jpit]

I've been trying to figure out how to wire the arming switch to turn off and on with the ignition. Not having much luck. Five wires go to the arming switch and it appears the red wire carries the voltage info (18v-28V) and the yellow wire reads 12V when the switch is off and very little when it is on. I think Rob is working on doing this. I thought it might be easy but not sure now how to do it.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

No cel.

Maybe you aren't getting full boost. I think that happened to @Bu-Tang when a cable came loose on the controller to motor. If everything is tight get ahold of Rob to troubleshoot. It should be quite loud when its off.

Does it feel faster ?

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[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by jpit

I've been trying to figure out how to wire the arming switch to turn off and on with the ignition. Not having much luck. Five wires go to the arming switch and it appears the red wire carries the voltage info (18v-28V) and the yellow wire reads 12V when the switch is off and very little when it is on. I think Rob is working on doing this. I thought it might be easy but not sure now how to do it.

You will need a 100A continuous duty 24V Contactor (relay) like this model from White-Rogers, model 124-114111

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/124-114111-Solenoid-Isolated-Continuous-Normally/dp/B003JJ8FCY"]White Rodgers 124-114111 Solenoid, SPNO, 24 VDC Isolated Coil, Continuous Duty, Normally Open Continuous Contact Rating 100 Amps, Inrush 400 Amps - Amazon.com[/ame]

You would put this on the positive from the 24V battery pack to the controller. This is an active low device so you would need to find a circuit that goes low (-) when the ignition is active.

With this in place you can leave the ESC in ARM without fear of discharging the battery.

[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by fenton

Maybe you aren't getting full boost. I think that happened to @Bu-Tang when a cable came loose on the controller to motor. If everything is tight get ahold of Rob to troubleshoot. It should be quite loud when its off.

Does it feel faster ?

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Even with the car in motion (even with my aftermarket exhaust) I can clearly hear the ESC spooling up. If you don't hear it, and you don't see a drain on the voltmeter, you may have an issue.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by Gary in NJ

Even with the car in motion (even with my aftermarket exhaust) I can clearly hear the ESC spooling up. If you don't hear it, and you don't see a drain on the voltmeter, you may have an issue.

Yea rob and I worked it out. Bad battery. Seems like I'm destined to run into issues right now. Obviously I did something to earn some bad karma. And now you guys probably think I'm an idiot in installing things or that my students may have f'd things up. But it was just a bad battery delivered. Yay....

[silent runner]

Originally Posted by fenton

Technically it does work at 80% physical throttle, which is 100% throttle to the ECU (Depending on where you install the pedal switch).

Boost under part throttle runs into a whole bunch of new tuning scenario's.

For what its worth the DR does boost(1psi) when you want a little more. It gives a nice bump in torque as it pulses even when at partial throttle.

I've given some thought to the idea of multiple stage/level activation as well, but it really does introduce alot of new tuning scenarios. (and cost/complexity) Think about added a separate TPS, or tapping the stock TPS, and adding a module to the controller to translate it. Thats just the beginning! It's not easy or simple to make a controller thats slinging around this much DC current in multiple, smooth stages. It would add so much cost to the system, that it would lose its charm as an economical way to beef-up the FRS's performance and that would be a real shame.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Yea rob and I worked it out. Bad battery. Seems like I'm destined to run into issues right now. Obviously I did something to earn some bad karma. And now you guys probably think I'm an idiot in installing things or that my students may have f'd things up. But it was just a bad battery delivered. Yay....

Man don't take it so hard! You'll be up and running in no time.