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Old 03-14-2014, 08:09 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AG3NT_5CARFAC3 View Post
I bought a light weight pulley set (3 pieces) and when I had to take off the crankshaft pulley, I noticed that, even in park with E Brake up, the pulley still spins freely, causing me to not loosen the bolt. For AT guys, you need to pick up a Crankshaft Pulley Stabilizer tool to hold the OEM camshaft pulley in place.


Here is a picture of "Schley Products, Inc Universal Camshaft Pulley Holding Tool" for what AT people will need to stabilizer the crankshaft pulley for removal. You can find this at Sears or Advanced Auto.
I REALLY appreciate this man. I'm certain I can "rent" something like this from advance and with a picture to reference it will be even easier to let them know what I need.
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:30 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyStarch View Post
I REALLY appreciate this man. I'm certain I can "rent" something like this from advance and with a picture to reference it will be even easier to let them know what I need.
Not a problem! Post up some pictures or a video when you have it installed!
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:18 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwaziekeller View Post
Also for you AT guys looking for a way to lock the flex-plate. Not recommending it, but there should be an "inspection cover" on the bell housing (where the front of the trans and the rear of the engine meet, manuals will have them too). If you remove the cover you should see the teeth on the flex-plate (flywheel for manuals) that the starter uses to start the car. You'll need two people, but often times you can finagle a flathead screwdriver or pry bar in between the teeth and hold the flex-plate by prying against the bell housing. Only reason I don't really recommend it is because if you slip and damage a tooth it can damage your starter and replacing both is $$$. Best bet is to use an impact or buy the proper tool to hold the flexplate tho.
Subaru and other companies sell pulley removers for AT cars
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Old 05-30-2014, 12:31 PM   #228
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thanks to this thread. i got this pulley installed in less than 60minutes flat.

do i feel anything? i can't give you anything concrete cause i didn't measure anything.
butt dyno? the car likes to "go" just a tad bit more on 2nd and 3rd gear. 1st gear is too short to tell. 4-6 gear is too long to tell.

the car does feel a bit lighter.
do i think if this is worth it? yes.
do i think this will cause issues in the future? no.
do i think if i will do this mod again? yes.
do i like this mod and i like how the car drives? yes.

praise to OP and others on the installation tips.
I used something to hold the sleeve in before sliding out the oem pulley. That was my biggest concern. and it was a success.

cheers.

and thanks again to all that contributed to this thread.
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:15 PM   #229
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Just did this last night. We literally could not get the bolt off and the breaker bar was bending fiercely. We let the engine cool and it came off with minimal effort. This was likely due to the temperature differences between the block and the bolt. Performing the install when everything was cool made a world of difference.
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:22 PM   #230
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I've given it all l've got, l cant budge this crank pulley bolt!!! Any suggestions?


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Old 06-06-2014, 05:24 PM   #231
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Originally Posted by Cjymiller View Post
Just did this last night. We literally could not get the bolt off and the breaker bar was bending fiercely. We let the engine cool and it came off with minimal effort. This was likely due to the temperature differences between the block and the bolt. Performing the install when everything was cool made a world of difference.

Pfffft. I just posted while looking at the first page. Then it zooms me to the end and l see this. Cars only been off for 90 minutes. Guess l'll wait longer.


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Old 06-25-2014, 09:46 AM   #232
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Any reason why you shouldn't loosen the bolt first then remove the belt?
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:48 PM   #233
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I'm far from knowledgable on this. But my guess would be to avoid damaging the belt or starting the engine. .


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Old 06-25-2014, 09:30 PM   #234
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I installed the crank pulley along with the ones for the water pump and alternator today. Since the alternator pulley bolt needs belt tension to keep the pulley still I loosened it with an impact wrench then loosened the crank pully bolt as well before loosening the belt. Replaced all 3 in about 30 minutes.


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Last edited by Deep Six; 06-26-2014 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Add Picture
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Old 07-06-2014, 01:27 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AG3NT_5CARFAC3 View Post
I bought a light weight pulley set (3 pieces) and when I had to take off the crankshaft pulley, I noticed that, even in park with E Brake up, the pulley still spins freely, causing me to not loosen the bolt. For AT guys, you need to pick up a Crankshaft Pulley Stabilizer tool to hold the OEM camshaft pulley in place.
That's all good for removing the factory pulley, but how do you hold the aftermarket one (Perrin) in place when installing it and torquing the bolt down? (AT)
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:29 PM   #236
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Without your help I wouldn't have been able to do it. Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2014, 04:24 PM   #237
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Just did the install - was wondering, would my torque specs be off if I installed the part on a relatively warm car? By the time I torqued the bolt back on, car had been off likely a little 2 hrs. Just wondering as 94 lbs came up pretty fast. Oh, and it was such a pain to get it off in the first place, car was definitely moving about.
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Old 07-11-2014, 05:12 PM   #238
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@PERRIN_Mladen is it possible to compromise the bolt and possibly shear it? I've got it installed now and it seems good to go but I remember when I used the breaker bar, I did about two cranks of consecutive 90 degrees before the bolt came loose. Now I know some of it is loading in the drive train be I couldn't be sure that it was only that. Fear in the back of my mind is that I twisted the bolt a bit as well when I took it off with breaker bar. Thoughts anyone?
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