WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by MJones_RB

Did you add some washers to the bushing bracket so they don't squeeze so hard? I believe the bushings are a bit robust and put too much pressure on the actual bar, which would explain why it squeezes the lube out and brings back the squeaking. Adding some washers to the brackets bolts releases some of that pressure.

No I didn't. Good idea, I'll try that. I think it'll need longer bolts and lock nut.

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by Legoshi

Ditched the TRD USA Quickshifter and went for the STi short shifter (thanks, @DarkSideFRS!) Didn't think it would make that big of a difference but it's night and day. Transmission build is complete now. ~

Also, the shifter bushing that comes in the TRD USA Quick Shifter kit is pretty nice, actually! Probably the one saving grace of the whole kit lol. I kept it in!

You didn't want to follow in my steps and do both? lol

[Legoshi]

Originally Posted by weederr33

You didn't want to follow in my steps and do both? lol

No idea why, but using the Quickshifter at all made shifts super notchy. I had to use almost twice the force as I did with the stock shifter even when driving casually. The throw with the STi one is almost the same (teensy bit longer maybe), but it's buttery smooth.

I could have installed it wrong or not torqued it correctly though. I still have it and you got me curious to at least try it out... I'll send you a PM if I ever decide to bite the bullet lol

By the way, Permatex Orange gel is some magic shit. Didn't drive anywhere near long enough for the bolt to back out, but I had to use a foot long pry bar to undo and back out the bolt when I was uninstalling it. Highly recommend using it on the Quickshifter for anyone.

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by Legoshi

No idea why, but using the Quickshifter at all made shifts super notchy. I had to use almost twice the force as I did with the stock shifter even when driving casually. The throw with the STi one is almost the same (teensy bit longer maybe), but it's buttery smooth.

I could have installed it wrong or not torqued it correctly though. I still have it and you got me curious to at least try it out... I'll send you a PM if I ever decide to bite the bullet lol

By the way, Permatex Orange gel is some magic shit. Didn't drive anywhere near long enough for the bolt to back out, but I had to use a foot long pry bar to undo and back out the bolt when I was uninstalling it. Highly recommend using it on the Quickshifter for anyone.

Considering I used red locktite, I'm kind of locked into it. No pun intended lol. It is notchier for sure, but I don't mind it too much.

[Cephas]

Wish the STI kit wasn't so freakishly expensive compared to the TRD kit.

[Legoshi]

Originally Posted by Cephas

Wish the STI kit wasn't so freakishly expensive compared to the TRD kit.

I agree. Even though I'm in love with mine, it isn't nearly short/sporty enough to cost 350+. That's the good ol' STi tax for ya lol

I actually bought mine used on the forum for 220 and I'd even consider THAT a bit pricey imo (not that I blame the seller, he's a cool guy )

[thekevinvo]

Replace the stock wheels with some new ones today!

[RToyo86]

Winter rubber is on.


Edit moved the review to the tire thread.

[FLIPDADY]

Finally put on the HKS catback. With all the heat going on in Ontario with noise tickets, it's a good setup to stay under the radar.

Sent from my LM-G900 using Tapatalk

[WNDSRFR]

I made this bitchin' heavy duty bike rack for my e-bike. Now I can bring it anywhere. I'll bet this thing could hold a motorcycle, it's so strong. The pipe going into the tow hook holes is schedule 80 steel pipe.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I made this bitchin' heavy duty bike rack for my e-bike. Now I can bring it anywhere. I'll bet this thing could hold a motorcycle, it's so strong. The pipe going into the tow hook holes is schedule 80 steel pipe.

How does the pipe fasten to the tow hook holes? Is it a friction fit, adapted to a threaded stud, or machined threads on the pipe?

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I made this bitchin' heavy duty bike rack for my e-bike. Now I can bring it anywhere. I'll bet this thing could hold a motorcycle, it's so strong. The pipe going into the tow hook holes is schedule 80 steel pipe.

Just a warning, I am not sure what those crossbeams are made of, but they are likely to try to buckle if you put too much lateral load on the rack. (Turning the car with something on it).

Also, not entirely sure how the uprights are constructed, but that seems to be a large moment to be supported by a small amount of thread under longitudinal acceleration.

It's clever, just remember to take it real easy with a load on it.

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

How does the pipe fasten to the tow hook holes? Is it a friction fit, adapted to a threaded stud, or machined threads on the pipe?

It starts with a M16x1.5 bolt (the rarest thread pattern in the world) 7 inches long and a nut. Cut off the head of the bolt and bevel the end slightly. Thread on the nut. Put it in the freezer. Get a 6" piece of 1/2" EMT (metal electrical conduit). Deburr the ends. Put it in a vice and heat it up. Take the bolt out of the freezer and pound it into the conduit. Once it cools it's a press fit but I welded it just to make sure. Now get a 1' piece of 3/4" schedule 80 steel pipe threaded on each end. Cut it in half. It will slide perfectly over the bolt/conduit piece. My first idea was to thread the bolt/conduit into the tow hook hole and slide the 3/4" pipe over it and pin it. But it wasn't sturdy enough, so I welded it to the bolt/conduit. So essentially you have a solid steel rod 1" thick with a 3/4" tapered pipe thread on one end and a M16x1.5 thread on the other. Oh, by the way I had to open up the hole through the rear of the car about .001 (unibit) so the pipe fits tightly into the hole. Then I screwed on the angles and pipe pieces. When I got the angles just right, I loctited the angles to the Schedule 80 pipe with red loctite. So that angle is fixed. The rest is pretty much self explainatary.

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Just a warning, I am not sure what those crossbeams are made of, but they are likely to try to buckle if you put too much lateral load on the rack. (Turning the car with something on it).

Also, not entirely sure how the uprights are constructed, but that seems to be a large moment to be supported by a small amount of thread under longitudinal acceleration.

It's clever, just remember to take it real easy with a load on it.

Yeah
I don't slide around turns with the bike on like I usually do, but it's pretty secure. The uprights are schedule 40 3/4" steel pipe. The cross supports are a piece of that stuff they use on chain link fence to secure the ends. It's pretty strong. They are connected to the pipes using 1 1/4" conduit clamps bent to fit. They are also screwed together where they cross. So when one is pushing the other is pulling. My biggest concern is the bungy cords breaking.