RCE Tarmac 2 CLUBSPORT and RCE Tarmac 0 coilovers available now

[UnOvertime]

I didn't do LCAs or the bushings. I dropped the car then took it for an alignment a few days later and the specs were within range of what I found acceptable for my usage. I installed the coilovers myself, but if I had been having a shop do the work I probably would have opted for the bushings and had them installed at the same time. Then again I do not need a huge level of camber adjustment, my most important adjustment was the toe.

[Touge86]

You guys still have the Tarmac 2 Clubsport's in stock? If so how much would it be shipped to 93012. Thanks .

[Sportsguy83]

If anyone needs the two Washers for the front Tarmac Zero's I have the pair sitting in my garage. I'll sell them for $5.95 (USPS Priority Mail Small Box). I ordered two sets because the original ones were taking forever and finally both of them arrived at the same time.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

RCE Tarmac 0 coilovers utilize the knowledge gained in the RCE Tarmac development process to bring an affordable and comfortable sporting coilover option to the Subaru BRZ and Scion FR-S aftermarket.

Did the install this weekend. I'm getting a slight "clunk" when going over speed bumps. I'm guessing I need to tighten the top nut (its on the front passenger side). I already tightened it and feel I can go more, but I'm afraid to over tighten and damage the threads. It happens rarely.

Should I try to tighten it a bit more? Is the clunk expected?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Shouldn't clunk with stock tops. Call us.

- andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Did the install this weekend. I'm getting a slight "clunk" when going over speed bumps. I'm guessing I need to tighten the top nut (its on the front passenger side). I already tightened it and feel I can go more, but I'm afraid to over tighten and damage the threads. It happens rarely.

Should I try to tighten it a bit more? Is the clunk expected?

The main thing that has to be done is lower the perches all the way so there is no tension on the springs so you can secure the conical washer and top perch on the shock shoulder. Then tighten the top nut down. In the rear same thing, but that nut has a tq spec of 16ft lbs and its a double nut so secure them one at a time. A lot of times people try to push the helper spring down while securing the front and they dont get the washer over the shock shoulder stem area and then it clunks.

Myles

[OrbitalEllipses]

Dude. Hurry up and get moar Tarmacs.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The main thing that has to be done is lower the perches all the way so there is no tension on the springs so you can secure the conical washer and top perch on the shock shoulder. Then tighten the top nut down. In the rear same thing, but that nut has a tq spec of 16ft lbs and its a double nut so secure them one at a time. A lot of times people try to push the helper spring down while securing the front and they dont get the washer over the shock shoulder stem area and then it clunks.

Myles

I put the washer between the top perch and the top hat. About the bolded part, I dont know which is the shock stern area.


I did lower the perches all the way down. I still believe my problem is I need to tighten the top nut more, but still curious about the washer and bolded quoted part. Thanks for the help!

Two more questions:

Is there any way to know how far down/up you are getting the car?

Does the helping spring compression dictates how far up/down the car is lowered?

Maybe these questions seem obvious to other people, but I had never installed adjustable coilovers.

[FR-S Matt]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Dude. Hurry up and get moar Tarmacs.

Still waiting on some 0's as well?

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by FR-S Matt

Still waiting on some 0's as well?

I can neither confirm nor deny.

[Gopherboy6956]

Just got mine installed last night. Still have to play with ride height as well as get alignment and add in rear camber bolts.

Some pics from the install:

Stock VS Tarmac 0


Stock Spring vs Included 225 Front Spring vs 350 Front Spring


Installed:

[FR-S Matt]

That spring clearance is sexy. Exactly what I need for my car because of my damn wide rims, lol. That stock spring is insanely wide. I can't wait to get mine on so I can start cornering hard again without worrying about the low trac coming on.

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Yellows are 20mm drop, static. Tarmac Zeros are height-adjustable. Combined with the fact that the forces of the Zero are not adjustable and you don't mention interest in adjusting forces, the Zeros are probably the better choice for you. Also the Koni warranty process is some shit, but that's bad feelings on my part.

With a threaded-body/height-adjustable coilover you change camber as a side effect of lowering the car, which is incorrect. This is fixed by using an adjustable length lower control arm, which is also the incorrect way to adjust camber (as this arm changes toe angle AND camber angle with one adjustment). The Whiteline camber bushing adjusts the UCA position, which is the correct way since it doesn't alter toe. Bushing cost + labor on the install will cost you more than a LCA + labor (you can install the LCA in your garage when you do the coilovers, too!).

Good info on the UCA adj bushings, question however if one uses a quality LCA and also an example a WL adjustable toe arm, this would be "as good" as the UCA adjustable bushings from WL no??

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Good info on the UCA adj bushings, question however if one uses a quality LCA and also an example a WL adjustable toe arm, this would be "as good" as the UCA adjustable bushings from WL no??

You accomplish the same thing, but still have squishy bushings in the UCA. Ultimately, most people will end up with LCAs and toe arms if necessary as it's simply easier.