KartBoy Short Shifter DIY and Review

[abutterman]

Originally Posted by enthennd

great DIY, I just finished installing mine. The shift and feel is the best thing I've ever had.

I think part of that reason being as soon as I removed that lower shift boot, there was no pin holding the shaft firmly to the shifter. I guess it was causing some sloppiness/notchiness, because now with a pin i picked up at pep boys, the shifter feels 10x better than ever.

wich pin are you referring to? curious about this...

[enthennd]

^ the small cutter pin that holds the shifter and shaft together. Really hoping this isn't a common thing, perhaps just a lazy person putting the car together? hell idk.

the shifter felt real notchy, was hard to get into gear at times. I guess the dust boot held it in place enough, but no doubt there was alot of movement. The shifter is VERY smooth and precise now with a pin put in there.

[abutterman]

Originally Posted by enthennd

^ the small cutter pin that holds the shifter and shaft together. Really hoping this isn't a common thing, perhaps just a lazy person putting the car together? hell idk.

the shifter felt real notchy, was hard to get into gear at times. I guess the dust boot held it in place enough, but no doubt there was alot of movement. The shifter is VERY smooth and precise now with a pin put in there.

now that's strange. what size pin did you buy? i might just get one just in case when i do the shifter since they're cheap

[enthennd]

ah can't remember the size, but it was the smallest one they had available. the hole is very small on the shaft.

[Yruyur]

Great diy. I had things all buttoned up within an hour.

I need and tiny boot since mine got torn

Mine was from a forum member so didnt have the rear bushing. I can completely see why one is needed now. With all the boots off I was rowing through gears and you could see how much the arm that holds the shifter in place moves around.

Gonna go with whiteline bushings and positive shift bushing.

Sent from a Motorola DynaTAC 8000X

[Mad_Mike]

Installed mine last week. Love the shorter throws and new shifter feel. I did notice the horizontal play and rattle at high rpms. I'll have to make sure everything is tight and try a few things to decrease the rattle when I install the new dust boot.I managed to rip mine like many others.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by tom@kartboy

In the works right now. signing off in injection mold tooling shortly.

Whats the status on these bushings?

[SciOnDrifTtSlIdeR]

is the pin mentioned above not a 3/32th pin ?

[ripper]

assistance request....

i can't get the cubby tray out, tried everything but can't find the release tabs and/or pull it out with by pulling gently through the usb port hole.

mine is different from the op's as i have the remote start button in mine if that makes a difference for removal.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by ripper

assistance request....

i can't get the cubby tray out, tried everything but can't find the release tabs and/or pull it out with by pulling gently through the usb port hole.

mine is different from the op's as i have the remote start button in mine if that makes a difference for removal.

Same technique. See any of the push-start button install threads. Remove kick panels, pop out USB port, unplug usb port, put finger in hole, pull UP AND OUT.

[ripper]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Same technique. See any of the push-start button install threads. Remove kick panels, pop out USB port, unplug usb port, put finger in hole, pull UP AND OUT.

mine must be welded in. tried everything and still no luck....

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by ripper

mine must be welded in. tried everything and still no luck....

Girly-man arms? Worked fine for me. See below.

Originally Posted by BugeyedWagon

I popped the passenger side center stack lower cover (below the knee pad) off. Then I reached in from behind and popped the USB connector out (push forward). The next step is to unplug the connection and push the wiring back through the exposed hole. After that reach into the now vacant USB hole with your pointer finger and pull gently. It may require some tugging a bit, but it will eventually pop out.

[ripper]

alright.... quick run to the cleaners to drop off my skirt and it's finally out!

[SirBrass]

Three additional items when installing the short shifter in a 10-series (FR-S) or Limited (BRZ):

Item 1: When removing the cubby hole shelf, you have more than just the USB/Aux to unplug. The push-start button has TWO cables connected to it. I found you cannot reach behind and pull out the cubby shelf. Instead, pull UP and out, and the top clips will release and then the you can get the cubby shelf out, and the push-start button's connectors will be accessible and you can remove them.

Item 2: when removing the entire center console, you've got the heated seat connector controls to remove as well, not just the 12V. This seems obvious but if you're following the DIY step by step somewhat blindly, it's easy to overlook till your realize "Oh, I've still got 2 cables connected!"

Item 3: The black washer that's between the shifter rod and the cotter pin doesn't seem to be necessary if you lose it. B/c I did. I pushed the connecting rod out and heard something fall, but I couldn't see anything on the ground, though it sounded like it hit plastic instead (but it wasn't in the cabin, or on some of the stuff running underneath the transmission shifter linkage). Still, on reassembly, I just went without it. Doesn't seem to hurt anything. It was such a thin washer to begin with anyway and the bushing material that surrounds the connecting rod in the kartboy shifter is delrin and not soft, compliant rubber. So, the washer seems to be a bit superfluous. If you didn't lose it, by all means reuse it, but don't worry if you did lose it. (correct me if I'm wrong here)