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#183 | |
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Proud of BOXER
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#184 |
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Smartass
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Are there any dynos on this? Stock vs. Milltek resonated? Just purchased the resonated version with overpipe and Motiv Concepts catted front pipe. Reasonable?
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#185 |
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Senior Member
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Just to throw this out there.. I have the non-resonated and have no scraping issues. The car is lowered about 1.5"
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#186 |
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Senior Member
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i noticed about couple months ago the inside of my exhaust started turning black really quick
a few weeks ago(maybe even last week) i could still see the silver circle where the tips and the axel-back connects now that part is black too i read on google that if the car does that it could be running rich? ive had mine since august, non resonated |
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#187 | ||
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Senior Member
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Milltek did replace it for free (under their lifetime warranty), shipped for free to their local retailer (from which I initially bought it) which didn't charge me for the labor. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Guillaume For This Useful Post: | Ganthrithor (01-14-2014) |
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#188 |
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Yep, just get in touch with your retailer or Milltek if there is a problem. They treated me well when I had problems with another system, that is why I bought again!
So far no probs here hope it stays that way. Important at install that the whole system gets to hang on all rubbers equally... |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Trettiosjuan For This Useful Post: | Ganthrithor (01-14-2014) |
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#189 | |
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Senior Member
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#190 |
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A poorly welded batch (too hot?), I hope. Otherwise, it's a design flaw and the problem won't be fixed with a replacement part. But then again, it's not their first try at fabricating exhausts so they should know what they're doing.
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#191 |
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Smartass
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#192 |
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Senior Member
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Surely that combo would give some gains. But dynos seem rather random as there are so many variables, and even then, how much would you notice the difference give or take say 3hp here and there...??
Lower back pressure, nice sound, still catted and resonated (not LOUD) = a "mature" choice. There is a vid of this combo on youtube (without overpipe), sounds good. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Trettiosjuan For This Useful Post: | Flasher (01-17-2014) |
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#193 | |
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Senior Member
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FWIW Gary from Mann said that Milltek have seen a couple of failures like this from their first batch of systems and think there was a problem with the stamping for that resonator end-plate / flange fitting (as you can see from my picture, the weld where the piping joins the resonator is fine-- it's the flange / collar that it welds onto that looks like it has torn free from the rest of the end-plate). Apparently only a small number of units have been affected and they don't think it should be a recurring problem. Can't wait for my new midpipe to come in so my car stops sounding like a ricer Civic :3 |
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#194 |
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Well that's good news on two levels. Thanks for sharing
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#195 | |
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Smartass
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(routine traffic control). Not trying to draw more attention with a huge & loud exhaust, but still want to have a bit more sound and performance. Thinking over adding a catted UEL header in the next couple of months - just want to have the godlike boxer rumble.
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#196 |
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Senior Member
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So I had a local shop swap the new midpipe in today. Got the car home and noticed that the tips were all wonky: the left tip looked pretty normal, but the right one was sticking out a lot further than the left and angled down more than usual.
I grabbed a socket wrench and pulled the clamp off the right tip and pipe elbow; then I re-aligned the tip so it matched the left one and tightened everything back up. While I was down there I noticed that the muffler itself seems to hanging strangely-- when I went to loosen the band clamp for the right (passenger-side) tip (the tip clamps are both installed with the bolt at the top, head towards centerline) my socket wrench had clearance to slip in under the hangar and interface with the bolt. On the left (driver's side) tip, the hangar blocks the socket from fitting over the bolt. When I drive the car I can hear something vibrating against the body when I accelerate hard. I assume it's the left exhaust tip hitting the rear valence, since that's the way the engine torques on its mounts (left tip goes up, right goes down) when throttle is applied. Could this be related to the hangar mounts seeming to be in different positions for some reason? I just don't understand how replacing the midpipe could result in the whole muffler being dramatically re-aligned like this. Should I just drop the left tip down a bit to keep it from tapping the valence, or do I need to take the whole thing off and re-mount it? Car sure sounds better, though |
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