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Old 08-01-2014, 09:34 PM   #1863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftWerks View Post
We're not quite sure what your motor is referencing but the average pressure on one of these motors at operating temperature would be something like 80-105psi at a maximum? This would not come close to even an 'up to' rating.
The way I see it, there's nothing being hurt by putting on clamps, so why recommend against it? It's always nice to have a failsafe.

The pressure out of the motor is not equal to the pressure in the line. Remember, the lines and coolers are all adding resistance.

The guy's already had one failure, which is why he's putting on clamps. It fixed his problem.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:02 PM   #1864
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
The pressure out of the motor is not equal to the pressure in the line. Remember, the lines and coolers are all adding resistance.
adding resistance actually LOWERS the pressure across the system

all the manufacturers of pushlock hoses state that clamps are unecessary...if they were they would sell them...which they dont

if it popped off...chances are it wasnt installed properly.

but anyone who feels compelled to add hose clamps can certainly do so
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:24 PM   #1865
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What do you mean when you say "pushlock?" I'm picturing a fitting that you could put a clamp on, but it wouldn't do you any good. Kinda like teflon tape on a flare fitting, totally useless.

These are what I think of when someone says pushlock:
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:30 PM   #1866
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Your original image links are broken
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:31 PM   #1867
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Originally Posted by gmsii View Post

if it popped off...chances are it wasnt installed properly.
I can guarantee it wasn't. I openly admit I'm a rookie, and once I spoke to the shop that installed my SC they made clear that I should have clamped it just to be safe. No matter, it's over. The car is OK as far as they can tell. I took it on a cruise on Sunday and it performed beautifully. Only problem now is getting all the oil out of the engine bay. It's stinks when the engine gets hot.
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:48 AM   #1868
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Kit is all installed but I'm having a hell of a time priming it. I loosened up the oil out on the rotrex, pulled the pump fuse, and for good measure, floored the gas pedal as well. Cranked it for 10 seconds, pause for 10, crank for 10. Did this 6 times then I would re-install the fuse and start the car for 3 seconds. Followed by another 6 10 second cranks followed by another 3 second start...

I did this 5-6 times and still nothing. The reservoir is full and I've only used 1/2 of the bottle. My battery is now dead and on the charger.

How long did this way take for others? When oil came out of the out banjo did it barely leak or did it spray under some pressure?

I'm about to try the method with the air pump...
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Old 08-05-2014, 03:37 AM   #1869
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It took about 3 full cycles for me before it started bleeding the blue unicorn blood. You might want to double check for kinks in the house that could be stopping flow. Check the flow direction of the filter to the charger too.
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:38 AM   #1870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlowell View Post
Kit is all installed but I'm having a hell of a time priming it. I loosened up the oil out on the rotrex, pulled the pump fuse, and for good measure, floored the gas pedal as well. Cranked it for 10 seconds, pause for 10, crank for 10. Did this 6 times then I would re-install the fuse and start the car for 3 seconds. Followed by another 6 10 second cranks followed by another 3 second start...

I did this 5-6 times and still nothing. The reservoir is full and I've only used 1/2 of the bottle. My battery is now dead and on the charger.

How long did this way take for others? When oil came out of the out banjo did it barely leak or did it spray under some pressure?

I'm about to try the method with the air pump...
I just started mine briefly and let it run for 2 - 3 seconds then shut it off. The oil came out on the first shot.
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:58 AM   #1871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlowell View Post
Kit is all installed but I'm having a hell of a time priming it. I loosened up the oil out on the rotrex, pulled the pump fuse, and for good measure, floored the gas pedal as well. Cranked it for 10 seconds, pause for 10, crank for 10. Did this 6 times then I would re-install the fuse and start the car for 3 seconds. Followed by another 6 10 second cranks followed by another 3 second start...

I did this 5-6 times and still nothing. The reservoir is full and I've only used 1/2 of the bottle. My battery is now dead and on the charger.

How long did this way take for others? When oil came out of the out banjo did it barely leak or did it spray under some pressure?

I'm about to try the method with the air pump...
Try the method in the competitor's kit. It *should* be compatible, given that the kits use the same supercharger.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:50 AM   #1872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nlowell View Post
Kit is all installed but I'm having a hell of a time priming it. I loosened up the oil out on the rotrex, pulled the pump fuse, and for good measure, floored the gas pedal as well. Cranked it for 10 seconds, pause for 10, crank for 10. Did this 6 times then I would re-install the fuse and start the car for 3 seconds. Followed by another 6 10 second cranks followed by another 3 second start...

I did this 5-6 times and still nothing. The reservoir is full and I've only used 1/2 of the bottle. My battery is now dead and on the charger.

How long did this way take for others? When oil came out of the out banjo did it barely leak or did it spray under some pressure?

I'm about to try the method with the air pump...

My oil did not come gushing out but if you run your finger along the out fitting you should feel some.
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:53 PM   #1873
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I used the Air Pump method and it worked...all up and running! Just have to limp to Delicious for an updated tune and MAP sensor and I'll be all set!
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:55 PM   #1874
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Another question: can I T off of the newly installed brake booster vacuum T that goes to the the SC for a boost gauge? Since it's already reduced it will be much easier than finding another reducing T like that.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:25 PM   #1875
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Hey Crew! We are doing free installation all month on the Kraftwerks Kits for this platform. If your interested please let me know how we can be of assistance.

http://rickspecd.com/kraftwerks/kraf...i-1798657.aspx

We are an Authorized Kraftwerks Dealer and Installation Center. I can get your car all setup and boosted in less than 48 hours along with pointing you in the right direction to go from Base Tune to Full Tune on your ride.

Any questions just call me directly! 1-888-844-0350

Thanks
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:41 PM   #1876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeman View Post
And according to the instructions the lines and fittings are supposed to come pre-assembled. Mine weren't so I assembled myself. I should have put hose clamps on them, rookie mistake. Then this happened....

Attachment 86803Attachment 86804Attachment 86805Attachment 86806

... So I say again, good idea to put hose clamps on.
Wow, I wished I read this while I was installing my SC and Oil kit over the weekend...complete FAIL.

After installing everything per the instructions and even adding some zip ties to the lines - they blew right off while Bill @DeliciousTuning was logging to make sure the tune was solid (which it was!!). Oil everywhere!

Mike at Infamous came to the rescue to push them back on and clamp them down so I could limp home and get new lines put on. After some degreasing and while limping home the lines popped on the radiator side. F! Oil EVERYWHERE again! I had to borrow some tools from a shop nearby where I broke down, rip the bumper and intercooler off in a parking lot, get an Uber driver to take me to Parker Hoses where they press fitted some fancy new blue high pressure high temp hoses and installed permanent oketer clamps. Reinstalled and degreased (again) and now I'm all set. 18 quarts of oil and $350 later...I'm installed the way it should have come from the beginning.
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