09-02-2014, 08:20 PM | #1849 |
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i belive @CSG Mike has posted that its better to gain camber at the hub/knuckle, as its best to keep strut angle changes to a minimum. although you usualy cant gain enough camber there, in a safe/recomended manner.
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09-02-2014, 10:26 PM | #1850 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dradernh For This Useful Post: | gramicci101 (09-02-2014) |
09-02-2014, 10:37 PM | #1851 |
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09-02-2014, 11:09 PM | #1852 | |
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Quote:
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09-02-2014, 11:14 PM | #1853 |
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They expand the top of the two holes that mount to the knuckle. That way they can push the hub back without changing the strut angle. Some struts or coilovers come with that hole slotted already, like the RCE T2.
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09-02-2014, 11:19 PM | #1854 |
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Thanks! And I think that's a zero point mod in NASA.
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09-02-2014, 11:27 PM | #1855 | |
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Do you guys "heat cycle" your tires before mounting them? Discount Tire offers a service for it. I just found out about this... not sure if legit. Going along with this, what do you recommend for tire longevity for the track? Warm up lap, cooldown lap...?
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...HeatCycling.do
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Last edited by unsurety; 09-02-2014 at 11:46 PM. |
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09-02-2014, 11:28 PM | #1856 |
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There's pros and cons to both, but safe to say that unless you're at a VERY high budget, a camber plate is better. The "superior" method requires basically customizing everything.
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | kavanagh (09-03-2014) |
09-03-2014, 07:52 AM | #1857 | |
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But for R6s, R1s, etc. I do it simply because I'm too lazy to do my own cycle & scrub. I'm willing to give up the scrub for the convenience of not having to run them for a few laps and then set them aside. I did this even when I had 10 sets of tires and wheels and took 7 of them to the track with me. For $60, I found it to be a no-brainer. More on DOT-R compound tire ownership here, including some overlap with the Discount Tire link above: http://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/warranty/HOOSIER.pdf http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=66 http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...jsp?techid=221 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dradernh For This Useful Post: | unsurety (09-03-2014) |
09-03-2014, 08:01 AM | #1858 | |
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Didn't someone suggest that when Michael Schumacher was demonstrating superior speed through certain corners that it was due to his left-foot braking technique? Assuming it's legal, you can practice this on the street to get yourself used to it. Or, just go karting a few times, where you'll be forced to develop some skill at it. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to dradernh For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (09-03-2014) |
09-03-2014, 09:56 AM | #1859 |
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To be fair, he had a paddle shift transmission, so he could brake all the way into corners with his left foot. I think all F1 drivers left foot brake. For those of us with a third pedal, we're kind of limited to short braking zones that don't involve a downshift, or we start to look like Fred Astaire. The throttle-brake-throttle transition is much quicker though.
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09-03-2014, 12:17 PM | #1860 | |
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Elegant heel/toe or toe/toe technique can accomplish the same. Instead of jabbing the throttle to get a blip for a shift, be smooth. Says the guy that now drives with paddles. FWIW I still cover both with one foot especially under hard braking on the street. It's an old habit that refuses to go away. |
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09-03-2014, 12:40 PM | #1861 | |
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Brought the car to the Subaru dealership for them to check. Here's what they came back with: Their conclusion after taking the car on the highway is that it is due to an exhaust leak, because my of my GReddy axle back is not OEM and "not a proper fit" (despite it being designed for this car) They also told me because I modified my car, this would void my warranty. Pretty sure I won't be getting my cars serviced from that dealer again, given that the extent of my mods is an intake and exhaust. Also, I hate to be "that guy" but I kinda doubt this conclusion, because I can't quite see how an exhaust leak would only happen at 75kph and 120kph, and have a tendency to be louder/detectable through the steering wheel only when I turn to the right hand side. Anyone have experience with this sort of thing who can chime in and let me know if I should bring it to another shop for a second opinion? Thanks! |
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09-03-2014, 12:52 PM | #1862 | |
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Did you lock up the brakes before going off? Take another look at your front left wheel, brake rotor, and all the suspension components associated with it. Get your car's jack out, take that wheel off and take a closer look at everything. Give everything a quick wiggle to see if anything got knocked loose or is bent. Take a look at your wheel - are there any wheel weights still attached? Perhaps there is a blank spot where they USED to be attached? If it was really muddy, mud can get stuck in some surprising places and cause vibrations. Does the car pull in any direction? |
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The Following User Says Thank You to GotMunchies? For This Useful Post: | daiheadjai (09-03-2014) |
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