SCCA Solo D Street discussion

[M0nk3y]

Originally Posted by C4RBON

Is it allowed by the rules to remove the passenger seat headrest? I take mine out for visibility. Are the detents and spring/catch mechanism in the seat considered a fastener?

Seats are not open in Street, so the answer would be no IIRC

However, in ST trim...that would be legal.

[Locust]

Originally Posted by C4RBON

Is it allowed by the rules to remove the passenger seat headrest? I take mine out for visibility. Are the detents and spring/catch mechanism in the seat considered a fastener?

No, it is specifically called out in the rules that you may reverse them but not remove them. Recline the seat if you want to see.

[Ragin Gti]

Hey all. Picked up a BRZ over the winter. Found a set of Koni's and a front Strano bar. Plan to use 225/45 RE71. Any advice on tire pressures and shock settings? Thanks for any info!


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[Locust]

Anyone know what options are out there aside from OEM for brake rotors? Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as the rotors are OEM spec'd replacements they are okay (meaning no slotted/drilled and must be 1-piece) which means you could technically find ones that were a pound or two lighter if they existed?

[fykcha]

Originally Posted by Ragin Gti

Hey all. Picked up a BRZ over the winter. Found a set of Koni's and a front Strano bar. Plan to use 225/45 RE71. Any advice on tire pressures and shock settings? Thanks for any info!


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I've had recommendations of 33 front, 30 rear from someone else running 225 RE71R.

I'm on the 215 RE71R in an FRS and she seems to like 30 in the rear and 35-36 in the front, but I've only had 2 autox since switching to this car. I'm used to more camber gain in the front so your mileage may vary.

[Locust]

RE71R start at 30front/28rear and see what you like/need around that.

Curious if anyone has a good starting point for the BFG 1.5S yet? I only have the test-n-tune at Crow's before I have to compete on them for the first time so I'm not sure how much pyrometer data I'll be able to get. Not the ideal testing for a national event but with how late our season starts here in Washington it's the best I can do.

[Twinz]

Originally Posted by Locust

RE71R start at 30front/28rear and see what you like/need around that.

Curious if anyone has a good starting point for the BFG 1.5S yet? I only have the test-n-tune at Crow's before I have to compete on them for the first time so I'm not sure how much pyrometer data I'll be able to get. Not the ideal testing for a national event but with how late our season starts here in Washington it's the best I can do.

On my CS car, the rears had even temps at 30psi. The fronts needed 34-35 psi to get the middle and outside edge close. For comparison, I run 27 rear and 30 to 31 front on the Stones.

[Open Loop]

I ran 29 lbs at each corner with a half turn up from full soft each corner at my first event this year and it felt pretty good (half tread remaining RE71R). Good enough on Sunday for 2nd of 9 in my first scca event of the year (this may be an anomoly - watching a video of my best run it's apparent I'm not particularly good yet, lots of close competetion behind me in DS, and pax was 24/85)

The guy who beat me was in a wrx with the BFG 1.5s. He said that the sidewalls are noticeably stiffer than the 1.0s - enough that he noticed it leaving his driveway after installation.

I am looking forwad to our match tour at the end of the month to see what's what re tires before buying my next set. I have 1.0s on a miata and think the RE71Rs are much much better.

[chucky12012]

Originally Posted by Locust

RE71R start at 30front/28rear and see what you like/need around that.

Curious if anyone has a good starting point for the BFG 1.5S yet? I only have the test-n-tune at Crow's before I have to compete on them for the first time so I'm not sure how much pyrometer data I'll be able to get. Not the ideal testing for a national event but with how late our season starts here in Washington it's the best I can do.

I'd say start at similar pressures for the 1.5. At the College Station Tour, which is grippy concrete, I ran 27 in the rear and about 29/30 in the front and the tires felt good and it was using the whole tire surface pretty well. This is similar to what I have run the RE-71R there in the past.

[Locust]

Originally Posted by Twinz

On my CS car, the rears had even temps at 30psi. The fronts needed 34-35 psi to get the middle and outside edge close. For comparison, I run 27 rear and 30 to 31 front on the Stones.

Thanks, that's almost exactly what I ran on the Bridgestone (29 front) and it felt very close to neutral so I'll start with 33f/30r and start measuring from there.

I appreciate the rest of the responses too guys but I need pyrometer checked pressures not just butt tuning.

[dvalue]

Whats the consensus on rear pads? I'm running Ferodos up front and stock pads in the rear. I'm happy with the Ferodos, but would like a little more rear bias.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by dvalue

Whats the consensus on rear pads? I'm running Ferodos up front and stock pads in the rear. I'm happy with the Ferodos, but would like a little more rear bias.

Same pads front and rear is the default for this chassis.

[dvalue]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Same pads front and rear is the default for this chassis.

Yeah, I figured as much. Didn't know if there was some unconventional approach out there that also works.

[chucky12012]

Originally Posted by Locust

Thanks, that's almost exactly what I ran on the Bridgestone (29 front) and it felt very close to neutral so I'll start with 33f/30r and start measuring from there.

I appreciate the rest of the responses too guys but I need pyrometer checked pressures not just butt tuning.

Anyone using a pyrometer on a street class twin to set their tire temps are going to end up at too high of a pressure in a lot of cases, I would imagine. STX with all the camber, sure, but there is a reason in street our tires don't wear evenly, we don't have enough camber. To get even temps across the tire when you don't have proper camber, you won't be using the outside tread enough, and therefore, not using the whole tire. It's a good tool, but I wouldn't set my pressures because of it. That being said, it's easy to bleed down your pressures, and I don't think the tires are all that sensitive to pressure since they are fairly stiff.