Plastic Modeling

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Not rekt no moor

Nope


What's your A-surface, there? Looks almost like parchment, or vellum paper.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Nope


What's your A-surface, there? Looks almost like parchment, or vellum paper.

Very thin styrene sheet. By going with styrene I can get scale thickness, use liquid cement to weld the parts together and make them easy to shape.
What you are seeing is the resin core that I used to get the angles and creases up the side right.
The inside of the doors was paneled so that saved me a pile of structural building.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Very thin styrene sheet.

Ah! I see it now!

[Spuds]

Not one of mine, but my friend painted this guy for D&D. It came out really damn good so I wanted to share. I wish I had a better camera (or better photography skills) phone pics don't really do it justice. I've got a few of my own coming up.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Not one of mine, but my friend painted this guy for D&D. It came out really damn good so I wanted to share. I wish I had a better camera (or better photography skills) phone pics don't really do it justice. I've got a few of my own coming up.

My grandson is 3d printing a bunch of these and asked if I would paint them. It will be yet another venture into the unknown for me.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

My grandson is 3d printing a bunch of these and asked if I would paint them. It will be yet another venture into the unknown for me.

Consider "Slapchop painting". The guy who painted the above mini really likes it, and it's relatively quick to do a bunch. Similar to what you do/has been suggested with car doorjams and such iirc.

I don't use it, but that's mostly because I'm stubborn.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Consider "Slapchop painting". The guy who painted the above mini really likes it, and it's relatively quick to do a bunch. Similar to what you do/has been suggested with car doorjams and such iirc.

I don't use it, but that's mostly because I'm stubborn.

Had to look up the term. Yep pretty much how I do most of my figures but with far far more different colours than green and brown.

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Front end dropped a tad more so stance is finally right. By today's standards it looks extreme but was pretty normal back then.

Were you ever able to get it to do a nose stand?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Were you ever able to get it to do a nose stand?

Not really. It was more a thing for the pickup version than the van. The extra body weight in the rear made big difference even in stock form.
Mine also had the whole drivetrain including the heavy C6 tranny and 9" rear end from a 69 Fairlane adding weight to the rear. The 351 has to sit further back than the stock six so when all added up the distribution was way different than the pickup.
It also had the benefit that even with the rear jacked up my COG was considerably lower than stock so I didn't have to slow to a snails pace on curves. Still probably like the 4 foot mark but still "better".

[Tcoat]

I have doors. The hinges are a tad ovescale but they are more to hang the doors on in the open position so it isn't too obvious. The closing part of the deal is just a bonus. Once all black you will hardly see then anyway.

The doors were made by skinning over the cut out resin parts with very thin styrene and the hinges are the Lindbergh kit parts for the front doors of the Dodge.

They fit better than the pictures make them look and will need some tweaking after paint anyway. The doors are not wrinkled like they look here that is a trick of the smudged marker ink and the resin showing through the styrene.



This is how it will be displayed. The inside of these doors was really easy to model since the structure was covered with paneling and the latch mech is all hidden. The outer lips are all scale thickness.

[Ultramaroon]

That's brilliant! Closeups of the hinges, please.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That's brilliant! Closeups of the hinges, please.

Well not that brilliant and sort of lazy really. Without getting really fancy with folded brass and tiny pins there was no way to duplicate the bends in the hinges to get them to function with the curves and distances required while keeping them scale sized. Since I do not have the materials nor skills to deal with brass it had to be materials I had on hand.
I experimented with styrene rod and tube but it just wasn't strong enough. Would have been fine and even scale in appearance if I was to just glue it all together with the doors open but there was no way they were going to close.
Then I tried just using different tape (masking, duct and aluminium) but again to get anything small enough it just wouldn't stand up.
I was about to give up on the opening idea when I remembered that the base kit had opening doors. Although a little large they were strong enough and as well as opening and closing gave me the ability or removing the doors completely when showing the interior.

The bottom parts with the eyes were inserted and superglued into slots cut into the resin body. The parts with the posts were cut off the larger piece and glued directly on to the styrene door skin. Very strong and stable but lift right off.
I will take some close ups tonight.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That's brilliant! Closeups of the hinges, please.

Here you go. Simple and effective.

Will virtually disappear under a coat or two of paint.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Here you go. Simple and effective.

Will virtually disappear under a coat or two of paint.

Experience and passion showing clearly.