03-11-2013, 10:56 AM | #141 |
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One more data point:
2013 Subaru BRZ, manual transmission model, assembled in spring 2012, delivered June 2012. At approximately 3500 miles: No sign of leaking, 12 mm bolts tight at 144 in-lb (12 ft-lb) on the metal plate described in posts above. |
03-11-2013, 11:31 AM | #142 |
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Just checked mine, 14000 km, dry as a bone.
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03-11-2013, 11:42 AM | #143 |
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Tightened mine and wiped clean. Checked two weeks later: slight residue. Time to pull off and goop the crap out of it.
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03-11-2013, 12:33 PM | #144 |
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I have a feeling the leaking is a leak between the two halves of the circle.
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03-11-2013, 02:40 PM | #145 |
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One more in this club. On my FR-S (production # 2414, delivered May 2012), I’d been noticing a small “burning oil” smell when the car was at a standstill when the engine is hot. (Like, when exiting the freeway and then idling at a stoplight). At first I thought the dealership spilled a little oil the last time I had my oil changed. But it didn’t go away. Never had a drop on the garage floor, and the oil level never diminished, so I just lived with it. The time for my next oil change approached, so I thoroughly checked the engine compartment with a flashlight when the engine and exhaust were at full operating temp -- and lo & behold, I noted a spot on the exhaust manifold for the right side rear cylinder where it looked like oil had been dripping on it. And even a wisp of smoke.
I dropped the car at the Toyota dealership this morning for its oil change, and asked them to look at it. I hadn’t yet searched for or seen this forum thread. An hour or so they called me with this verdict: “The cam seal on the right cylinder bank is leaking. To replace that gasket, the engine has to come out. We’ll order the parts and schedule another visit for the job. It will take three to four days, so we'll provide a loaner car for you to drive.”I didn't like that answer. So I conducted a little bit of internet sleuthing (consisting basically of searching on this forum under the keyword “leaking”), and in ten minutes I was convinced that odds were very, very strong that the specific cylinder head blanking plate mentioned in this thread was the issue, versus leaking cam seals. I work right next door to the dealership, so I walked over there and brought the service writer a printout of key postings from this forum thread. I asked him to have the technician look it over and call me directly if he had any questions. The technician removed the plate, cleaned it up, reinstalled, and torqued the bolts. I’ll give it a couple weeks to see if I encounter the smell again, but here’s hoping that it’s all good. Toyota should send me some kind of reward, right? My 10 minutes of internet sleuthing saved the company from incurring a major, super expensive, engine remove-and-reinstall warranty claim -- which wouldn’t have even fixed the problem. This job instead took less than an hour of labor plus a tube of special Toyota sealant. Cheers to the FT86 forum for chalking up another win! |
The Following User Says Thank You to avusblue For This Useful Post: | Bristecom (04-02-2013) |
03-11-2013, 05:11 PM | #146 |
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Nice WRX wheels!
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The Following User Says Thank You to OrbitalEllipses For This Useful Post: | avusblue (03-11-2013) |
03-12-2013, 10:17 PM | #147 | |
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Quote:
I had to take mine out a 2nd time to re-seal it. Liquid silicone requires the surface areas to be clean and free of oil for as long as the silicone cures. The problem with re-sealing is that shortly after you clean the area, it gets contaminated with oil again after about an hour. This happened to me because I did a series of cleaning/degreasing and waiting 3-4 times and every time after I clean the surface of oil, more oil would somehow return, which I believe lead to the failure of my first attempt. My solution was to put the rear of car on jack stands so that oil would have no chance of returning to the opening. I am hoping I have sealed it finally for good.
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03-12-2013, 10:31 PM | #148 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to ItsOnlyNoe For This Useful Post: | avusblue (03-12-2013) |
03-12-2013, 10:46 PM | #149 | |
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Quote:
For anybody else that has had to deal with this and a dealer did not want to work with you, I suggest you are more persistent as I know there are dealers who would call this seepage minimal and in fact is but the moment you can get a smell in your car well that to me requires attention regardless of how minimal someone else might say. Maybe its because I work on others cars like they are my own that I care more then the average tech. Anyways I am fresh to this furom and come with a MR2 background, Ill try and give my best advice and knowledge to help fellow car guys. I can't speak for Toyota but Ill do my best to research and help others while im here. Thanks. |
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03-13-2013, 07:32 AM | #150 | |
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Quote:
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03-13-2013, 10:06 AM | #151 |
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Not to thread jack, but I wonder if this a good place to put an oil-water heat exchanger, and if it would help cool the oil, or simply overheat the coolant.
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03-20-2013, 12:31 PM | #152 |
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Dealer fixer a few weeks ago after putting up with the burning oil smell for 10,000 miles. Now it's back. Just got home after dealer denying there was a problem again. They even put it up on a lift and tried to show me there was no leak. Took it from them and drove the hell out of it for 20 miles. Let it cool down and imagine this- small amount of oil at base of plate. It's back with them again to give it another try. If it leaks again, I'm picking up some seal at Autozone and doing it right myself. Tired of all the driving back and forth to the dealer.
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03-20-2013, 02:17 PM | #153 | |
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Quote:
As another member recommended, I jacked up the rear of the car to keep oil from contaminating the drying gasket material. |
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03-20-2013, 02:25 PM | #154 | |
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Is that per the Permatex instructions? I haven't used that product in a while and I forget the application procedures, Thanks. |
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