AP Racing brake systems in development

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

Hey Jeff or anyone that knows, is the AP Racing brake caliper temp strips a one time use product? Will only show the max temp or is it like a thermometer that can go up and down? I want to test my titanium shims to see if they actually help prevent heat transfer to the calipers.

This might be a stupid question but what is the recommended way to push the pistons in to install new/thicker pads? I noticed the C300 has a slimmer depth and when I went back to the Hawk HPS it was a pain to get them in.

Shows the highest temp reached.

I pop the bleeder open on the outside and push them back in with old pads.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Shows the highest temp reached.

I pop the bleeder open on the outside and push them back in with old pads.

Thanks i'll give that a try tonight.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I printed out the Sprint template and it clears the OEM spare by 1-3mm with a 20mm wheel spacer. Not a permanent or safe fix but neither is a spare.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by gmookher

anyone on this thread have the ENDURANCE kit? I have a question...

Somebody here does but I forgot who unfortunately. What's the question? The rest of us might be able to answer, or call Jeff, he'll be able to answer as well.

Originally Posted by Hanakuso

Thanks i'll give that a try tonight.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I printed out the Sprint template and it clears the OEM spare by 1-3mm with a 20mm wheel spacer. Not a permanent or safe fix but neither is a spare.

Leave one pad in when you do that BTW, otherwise you'll move the other pistons too which just makes more work when you do the other side. I usually remove the outside pad first, then open the bleeder, then push those pistons back in with two old pads (pads sitting horizontal, one per piston for leverage). Then install replacement pad. Then move to the inside, compress pistons again, close bleeder, install replacement pad.

You can just use a screwdriver between the rotor and pad that's already there as well but I don't use that method.

[JRitt]

Guys,
When you're pushing pads back in...be careful! If you do use the brake pad turned 90 degrees method to span both pistons, wrap the pad in a shop towel. Otherwise the edge of the disc against which you are levering can damage the pad. Also, the edges of the pads and gouge or damage the pistons...which is not good. Also, you have to be careful doing this with race pads. Some become brittle after a number of heat cycles. If you use them as a lever, drop them on the ground, etc. you can easily crack the pad material.

You may just want to fashion a small, smooth block of wood for this purpose. It will be easier on your pistons, your discs, etc., and you won't have to worry about breaking, scraping, or gouging anything. I had a little pine block that I used for years. There are a couple of caliper spreaders on the market (the Girodisc one comes to mind), but they are expensive and large/difficult to store and transport.

As Dave said...do one side at a time, or you'll be playing piston tennis....back and forth, and back and forth.

I'm getting tons of PM's...if you guys have any questions about what's right for you, call me 704-824-six zero three zero 8-5pm ET. I don't bite, and it's far easier and faster than sending 46 messages back and forth as I gather details!

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by JRitt

Guys,
When you're pushing pads back in...be careful! If you do use the brake pad turned 90 degrees method to span both pistons, wrap the pad in a shop towel. Otherwise the edge of the disc against which you are levering can damage the pad. Also, the edges of the pads and gouge or damage the pistons...which is not good. Also, you have to be careful doing this with race pads. Some become brittle after a number of heat cycles. If you use them as a lever, drop them on the ground, etc. you can easily crack the pad material.

You may just want to fashion a small, smooth block of wood for this purpose.

I should have mentioned that I use old pads from an integra, I wouldn't use pads I care about for this purpose.

The wood would make a lot more sense.. I'm not smart enough to think of something like that.

[MKIV]

A C clamp will work great also.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by MKIV

A C clamp will work great also.

Negative. These are fixed calipers, not sliders and both pistons have to be addressed at the same time on each side.

[JRitt]

I know there has been some speculation about what our 'small' Sprint system can handle. Here's

of a 320whp FR-S on track with our Sprint system. Matt comments that he really likes them at 6:35 in the vid.

[MSTiFK8R]

Originally Posted by gmookher

anyone on this thread have the ENDURANCE kit? I have a question...

I do

but they are on the shelf till March, its too dutty&salty now

feel free to ask

[fastfrs]

my car will be a 100% track only car. using 17s. i think this is the only kit that will give my car stopping power. better then brembos (seems like). is there anything else on the market for a race car? when it comes down to stopping power

[Surok]

you cant beat these kits for price and performance.

[MSTiFK8R]

I just got my Endurance kit from Essex

so clean&shiny I'd put it on the pillow next to me till it's Spring time ))

I thought I'd share some shots

Never seen pistons THAT HUGE! STI Brembo's pistons are toothpicks not pistons ) after you see these






Bravo, Jeff!

I'm tempting to install them

[JRitt]

Glad you got them safely and all is well! May they bring you years of happy threshold braking. Thanks again for the purchase. :happy0180:

[ICantAffordAnLFA]

I'm interested in your kits and clearly you ship overseas.

How much track use will the endurance kit take?; I do about 10 trackdays a year and will add an sc kit shortly.