Suspension Review: Race Comp Yellow Springs

[ultra]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

OK sorry, I'm still confused about how to tighten the top nut. I can't use my torque wrench AND use an allen key to keep the strut from spinning. Would this work: use a go-thru socket (and allen key) to tighten the top nut down a bit...and then finish it off with just a torque wrench?? I just don't want to damage the strut by spinning/turning it.

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Also, did RCE leave off the instruction and torque spec for attaching the swaybar endlink? I think the diagram says 34 ft-lb. Also, the RCE instructions say to torque the clevis bolts to 129 ft-lb, but I think the diagram says 114 ft-lb.

Pass through socket + Allen key or, if your shop has one, a strap wrench on the shaft to keep it from spinning + torque wrench on the top bolt.

I believe RCE posted torque specs in their how-to.

[BRZranger]

Any of you guys with this kit mind taking some specific pics? I'd like to see the rear undercarriage on level even ground, specifically the rear lower control arms. I'm curious to see the angle of the control arms, if it's pointing up or down from the center.

Also, any of you take measurements after it's settled? What is the length of top of wheel well to center hub?

Thanks!

[Nitro22]

Originally Posted by brzranger

What companies make top mounts comparable to com-c's?

Hotchkis is coming out with their own adjustable camber plates. With positive caster built in. The kit will come with the M14 subaru bolts which will allow for 0 to -3 deg combined with the camber plate.

They should be out by November.

[ultra]

AFAIK - tons of companies do pillow ball camber plates, but none seem to do fixed offset rubber mount top hats like the Com-Cs.

For street use I prefer the idea of rubber mounted top hats for NVH and reliability reasons. I've had Whiteline, Cusco and HKS pillow ball camber plates which all developed clinking issues. Oddly the (supposedly low end) top hats that came with the Stance coilivers on my Miata never clunked.

Shame about the random quality issues with the Com-Cs as they seemed to be an ideal solution in theory.

As far al pillow ball top hats I'm sure there's good ones out there that won't clunk as they wear out, but YMMV.

FWIW I'm leaning towards OEM top hats with crash bolts AND Whiteline camber bolts for the moment, since I drive mostly on the street, can't be bothered with $$$ top hats and don't need insane camber up front.

[Racecomp Engineering]

I think in the end what will be discovered is there is a bad "lot" of these mounts. I say that because there isnt a more anal person with regards to noises than myself. The Com-c's I had were on our shelf set aside around the time we got the pre-production car back in FEBRUARY. Not to mention all of the GD IMPREZA's that get these all the time. My car never made a noise and we did some NASTY rim bending test for bump stop clearance on the prototype springs in Baltimore and Washington DC etc. So I think, that its a more recent "LOT" of the com-c's. To some degree that is good as it means that its not wide spread. I think a member already got a new set , installed them and has no noise. THIS supports this thinking.

None the less Jan at WHiteline USA is working with the engineers here and abroad on a fix. We very much appreciate everyones patience in this.

In the end once its fixed etc....these are still a solid options for increasing camber and caster about a full degree. NOTHING ELSE exist like that. So I look forward to the fix and update on this product.

Myles Williams
Racecomp Engineering/ GTWORX

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ultra

AFAIK - tons of companies do pillow ball camber plates, but none seem to do fixed offset rubber mount top hats like the Com-Cs.

For street use I prefer the idea of rubber mounted top hats for NVH and reliability reasons. I've had Whiteline, Cusco and HKS pillow ball camber plates which all developed clinking issues. Oddly the (supposedly low end) top hats that came with the Stance coilivers on my Miata never clunked.

Shame about the random quality issues with the Com-Cs as they seemed to be an ideal solution in theory.

As far al pillow ball top hats I'm sure there's good ones out there that won't clunk as they wear out, but YMMV.

FWIW I'm leaning towards OEM top hats with crash bolts AND Whiteline camber bolts for the moment, since I drive mostly on the street, can't be bothered with $$$ top hats and don't need insane camber up front.

Yeah you have a point about offset hard rubber mounts etc. Thats a tall order to fill for sure.

In a week I am installing Racecomp Lowering Camber plates on stock shocks with RCE Yellows for street testing. No one hates NVH from camber plates more than me so this is to determine their streetability.

Just a related yet off topic update.

Myles
Chief RCE slacker.

[BRZranger]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yeah you have a point about offset hard rubber mounts etc. Thats a tall order to fill for sure.

In a week I am installing Racecomp Lowering Camber plates on stock shocks with RCE Yellows for street testing. No one hates NVH from camber plates more than me so this is to determine their streetability.

Just a related yet off topic update.

Myles
Chief RCE slacker.

These will be comparable to WL front camber plates right, minus the popping, right? What is price range and ETA?

[mechaghost]

Update to my review: The RCE Yellow springs did add a little harshness to my commutes. The car rebounds up faster when hitting bumps on the road, which by no means is jarring but I definitely felt the velocity of the rebound increase, according to my butt.

So far no problems with the Springs or the bushings! Me gusta this product

[Racecomp Engineering]

^ Glad you like them!

- Andrew

[Draco-REX]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Yeah you have a point about offset hard rubber mounts etc. Thats a tall order to fill for sure.

In a week I am installing Racecomp Lowering Camber plates on stock shocks with RCE Yellows for street testing. No one hates NVH from camber plates more than me so this is to determine their streetability.

Just a related yet off topic update.

Myles
Chief RCE slacker.

I almost went this route but at the last moment they weren't in-stock. I really want to see pics and hear about the ride.

[Phaedrus29]

Just successfully installed the Yellow Springs (I think)! I did a quick drive around after the install, over some bumps, and didn't hear any weird noises! I thought this would be an easy install, and I don't think I'm a complete noob, but man this took me a long time...like 8+ hours! Really the main issue was that I didn't find the instructions I had all too accurate...at least they didn't work well for me.

As I was doing the install, I consulted the RCE instructions, DarrenDriver's DIY, and GrimmSpeed's DIY (for installing coilovers). I wanted to post about where I got tripped up, so others have an easier time. Honestly, once I figured out how to do this it look like 30 minutes per corner.

TRIP UP #1:
Both RCE and DarrenDriver say that an Impact Gun/Wrench is "optional", but honestly I think the install is IMPOSSIBLE without one (and if I'm right please edit the instructions/DIY). The nut on top of all the struts simply seems impossible to take off with hand tools (even with go-thru sockets and allen key). I didn't have an Impact Wrench and had to run out to Sears mid-install...I ended up buying an electrical one and that did the trick of loosening the top nut. I called Myles at RCE mid-install and he said to put screwdrivers in the clevis bolt holes to prevent rotation of the strut and pull the top hat up as you use the impact wrench to loosen the top nut.

I'm a bit unsure about how I tightened that nut back on. Basically I tightened it by hand using the go-thru socket and allen key...then I just gave it a little whirl with the impact wrench (while pulling up on the top hat). Certainly not an exact torque spec!


TRIP UP #2:
For some reason, I expected the rears to be easier than the fronts, but they turned out to be real tough for me, again because of issues with the instructions. The problem I had was figuring out how to get the strut out of the lower control arm. GrimmSpeed says remove the two bolts at the top of the strut, then remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut ONLY...then push down on the hub and remove the strut. Again, this seems IMPOSSIBLE to me. The lower control arm simply will not go down low enough to pull the strut out. RCE adds that, in addition to the bottom bolt, you should also remove the swaybar endlink bolt...then push down on the hub/lower control arm and remove the strut. Once again, NOT POSSIBLE at least for me. The control arm doesn't go low enough.

DarrenDriver says to leave the swaybar endlink attached, and instead remove the outer bolt that connects the lower control arm to the hub. After doing this, the lower control arm can swing lower, and the removal and installation becomes super easy! So I would follow DarrenDriver's DIY for the removal of the rear struts: bolt on bottom of strut, then bolt connecting lower control arm to hub, THEN two bolts on top of the strut. (I also had the endlink bolt out, but I don't think that was necessary.) (By the way, the bolt connecting the lower control arm to the hub was a bit tricky to get FULLY out...I put a screwdriver through the hole and hit that with a rubber mallet to get it all the way out.)

I'm not sure if I was doing something wrong/different in back, but again, I don't see how you can get the strut out without removing that hub/control arm bolt...in any case, that made things much easier.


TRIP UP #3:
OK, rear struts off the car, I got the old springs off, put the new springs on, and have the strut all ready to install. WAIT A MINUTE...the orientation of the bottom bolt hole and the top two bolts is all off, and (as far as I could tell) the top hat doesn't swivel like the front struts. I might be mistaken, but I don't think any of the three instructions I consulted mention that you need to align these correctly. Is it supposed to be obvious common knowledge?! Anyway, I guessed that the bottom bolt hole should be parallel to a line drawn between the top two bolts (sorry this is a bit hard to explain). After trying to get that aligned corrected, I was able to get the strut installed...but jeeez, a heads up would have been nice.

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OK, those were my main issues. It's certainly possible I was just being stupid concerning one or more of these. But hopefully my experience will help others. Please let me know if you have questions. Again, this turned out to be a tricky/long install for me but with the right instructions it would have been pretty easy. I haven't really tested out the springs much but I do have to say that immediately, without any settling, the wheel gap looks SO MUCH BETTER than stock, even with the mild 20mm drop!

[RYU]

^^^ I feel your pain as I went thru the same with te rears. I learned a long time ago that an impact gun is key. I'm glad the results are worth it though.

[Phaedrus29]

See my post here about torquing down the top nuts on the struts: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=67

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More on topic: I'm taking it easy with the yellow springs so far since I'm waiting for my alignment and to have the rear camber bushings and front camber bolts installed. But I have to say the car looks amazing with the drop...and even without an alignment the handling feels great...certainly not harsh at all. Feels very similar to stock but better...with much better looks. Exactly what I was looking for RCE!

[Racecomp Engineering]

We're making a few changes to the instructions based on everyone's recommendations.

Glad you like them Phaedrus!

- andrew