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06-07-2019, 02:32 AM | #15 |
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Enjoy, guys. It's pure win.
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06-07-2019, 11:27 AM | #16 |
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Sorry in advance for the thread hi-jack ?
Hello @Ultramaroon ! -
After all the discussion re: the South American guy's efforts to improve oil pressure / survivability, and then seeing your oil cooler sandwich configuration in the transmission strap support thread you started, I got to thinking about the location where I have my oil temp and pressure senders. Perhaps there are better spots? Coming off the sandwich plate - I *think(!!) - Keyword* I have pressure on the line from the cooler, and the temp on the line to the cooler. So I know if the pressure drops and also know the oil temp before it gets to the cooler. Your setup in the pics looks like you're obviously monitoring the oil temp and pressure at a different location. Thoughts / recommendations on better locations that what I am currently using? |
06-07-2019, 12:51 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
I think it's a toss-up for temp. Either the cooler is doing its job or it's blocked. The pressure tap should be downstream of the filter. I can see a slight drop as I clock over 5 Kmi on my oil and it jumps back up if I change only the filter. That leaves either the factory pressure tap or the one at the front of the main gallery. I picked the main just for convenience but recently, as you also read, have learned that it is a better location to monitor pressure delta as a function of temp. Does it really matter? Meh, probably not.
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06-07-2019, 02:40 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
The one at the front of the main gallery = the plug here, below and to the driver side of the throttle body right? |
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06-07-2019, 04:17 PM | #19 |
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Yup. Get a really good accurate socket head driver. That plug is unbelievably tight.
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06-07-2019, 04:32 PM | #20 |
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Dude it is! I have removed it once already..I had an accusump plumbed in there...which was totally not needed for my track speed at that time (more to have a fab/tinker project).
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06-07-2019, 05:16 PM | #21 |
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Right?! Stung my hand when it snapped loose.
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10-12-2021, 02:15 PM | #22 |
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@Dave-ROR, try this and let me know how it works.
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12-03-2022, 09:19 AM | #23 |
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Necro!
Just wanted to note that this isn't going to work with all ratchet straps. the ratchet can line up with the support bar which doesn't really allow the strap to turn the corner where I want it to. By my estimate, the ratchet side strap needs to be at least 18 inches long to clear the brace. Alternatively, the ratchet+strap length can be less than 10 inches to fit the ratchet between the fuel rail plate and the support bar on the right side. It also helps if your straps have the same hook type as OP. Edit: So of course I had a thought 5 minutes after writing this. If the ratchet side straps are too short/long, you can daisy chain them. It's more of a pita to do it this way I think.
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Also: "Build Thread" Last edited by Spuds; 12-03-2022 at 09:33 AM. |
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12-03-2022, 02:22 PM | #24 |
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Ha! I never considered how lucky I was to have the right length of ratchet-side strap.
It's really hard to beat a good rope. I should update with a tutorial on tying a bowline and trucker's hitch. ...maybe.
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04-17-2023, 09:15 AM | #25 |
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Will this work to lift the engine a little to help in the reinstallation of the transmission?
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08-31-2023, 01:10 AM | #26 |
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Whoops. Sorry I missed this. Lift? No. Tilt back? Yes, absolutely.
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08-31-2023, 12:14 PM | #27 |
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Knots are a basic mechanical advantage. If you don't have the fundamentals in your toolbag, something is lacking.
Tautline hitch, prussic, woo! sheepshank! Get em while they're knot! Rope Knots
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08-31-2023, 02:01 PM | #28 |
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