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01-04-2023, 05:41 PM | #15 |
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01-04-2023, 06:12 PM | #16 |
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01-04-2023, 08:50 PM | #17 | |
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while you're here... https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145783 i'm curious to hear your thoughts on that one
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01-05-2023, 07:26 AM | #18 |
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As soon as the word "pothole" hits the conversation there is no type of weird damage that will surprise me.
They are bad enough when you hit them on the straight edge but if you manage to catch the slope just wrong then you not only get vertical shock but sideloading at the same time. When you consider the amount of impact force involved anything can happen. Many moons ago I managed to snap off a spring u-bolt and twist the rear end of a M-35 deuce and a half just by hitting a large pothole.
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The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | Bunsin (01-05-2023), Dzmitry (01-05-2023), NoHaveMSG (01-05-2023), SCFD (01-05-2023), soundman98 (01-05-2023), Spuds (01-17-2023), Wally86 (01-05-2023), x808drifter (01-09-2023) |
01-05-2023, 07:46 AM | #19 | |
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The factory part will tolerate the complete disintegration of the bushing and not completely let go. Aluminum will fatigue and fail eventually with repeated loadings, even at very low stress levels. The tiny amount of weight saved here by going with an aluminum rod end is IMO not worth it... |
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01-05-2023, 09:07 AM | #20 |
Be careful with the Whiteline toe arm...make sure the poly end pivots freely. Had some trouble with that on their first iteration...
- Andrew |
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01-05-2023, 09:12 PM | #21 | |
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01-05-2023, 09:36 PM | #22 | |
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Fwiw I’m about 1.5” lower than stock running factory LCAs and toe links, no prob getting desired 0.0 rear toe. |
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01-05-2023, 09:40 PM | #23 |
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I couldn't get desired camber and toe without LCA's and toe links on my car.
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01-05-2023, 10:11 PM | #24 | |
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01-06-2023, 06:39 AM | #25 | |
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On paper is easy: track duty only with lower ride heights resulting in more camber? Probably most times it won't be a problem; Street car with mild drop and around -1.8 rear camber? Still acceptable but what if we're optimizing a dual duty car or something different? With more adjustability you don't make any compromises, just choose the ride height you need (or want) and then adjust camber and toe to suit tire choice and usage according to pyro readings. Then I agree with your point, OEM is safer, no doubts with that, personally I'm using Hardrace links made of steel with sealed pillow ball, so far I'm still alive, tomorrow...who knows? |
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01-06-2023, 07:36 AM | #26 |
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My car is daily and also time trials at the track. I’ve always run factory arms and links at -2.7 rear camber, zero rear toe,street and track. Winter tires have never seen the track yet wear remarkably evenly. Radials can handle a lot of camber, I think people get worried about having too much when there’s not much if any negatives running that much on the street. So they get aftermarket LCAs and toe links. Which can cause REAL, ACTUAL problems…
Last edited by ZDan; 01-06-2023 at 08:00 AM. |
01-06-2023, 10:58 AM | #27 | |
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I believe you cause I have tried everything from stock to -2.5 rear, while I have never had wear issues with both 0 and some toe in pyro said no more than 2.2 or so, I trust him more than my butt dyno and I didn't want to give away any bit of traction |
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01-06-2023, 11:47 AM | #28 | ||
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I’m on 4.4 kg/mm front springs, 5.3 rear. Eibach front and rear sways set to about 150% stiffer than stock (softer setting front, stiffer rear). Tires are Yok A052, B’stone RE71RS, 245/40-17 (sometimes 235/45, sometimes staggered). Quote:
The pyrometer reading is only telling you temperatures, after you’ve pulled off the track. it isn’t telling you directly how much camber to run (or pressures either). Generally a setup optimized for lap times will have the inside running hotter than outside, no one should be aiming for even temp across the tread. In my experience a quite broad range of rear camber settings can yield very similar lap times. On these cars having enough front camber is a lot more important than whether rear camber is “optimal”. IMO rear camber anywhere from -2 to -3 is gonna work fine. And if you’re front camber limited, reducing rear camber won’t help… Last edited by ZDan; 01-06-2023 at 12:13 PM. |
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