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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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05-26-2022, 02:03 PM | #15 |
extra what?
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Exactly!
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05-26-2022, 02:42 PM | #16 |
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I can't speak to a ton of the reasons people have experienced failure. The link that was provided was informative but, in my opinion, not really related since he was doing forced induction and that definitely changes the rules/results of this conversation.
That being said, it sounds like the biggest issue people run into is overheating oil. In my case I added a 19 row cooler and thermostat for it so it feels like that's the easiest way to resolve the core issue. Ultimately, it seems like heat is the enemy. Things that allow you to manage heat are going to increase engine life. There are plenty of anecdotal instances of people running these engines well beyond 100,000 miles so the perceived instances of failure might be getting exaggerated because of a belief that these engines are different than just about everything else out there. |
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05-26-2022, 02:44 PM | #17 |
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The most common denominator is oil temp, rather than oil pressure.
Keep those temps in check. |
05-26-2022, 02:54 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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05-26-2022, 03:03 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
For what its worth, my engine had around 60k miles when I sold it for the swap, of those, around 20k were track only. My engine now has over 120k miles on another car that had a blown engine (and had never seen the track before) and its still purring. My engine was affected by the recall but I chose not to do it. So all in all, I stand by proper maintenance for your usage of the car will go a long way. These engines arent bullet proof but they arent made of glass like people seem to think. |
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05-26-2022, 03:08 PM | #20 |
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I stand by UOA’s for oil change intervals. Others may have different opinions but that is just mine.
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05-26-2022, 03:14 PM | #21 | ||
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Quote:
The guy from Peru went through *multiple* engines *with* an oil cooler until he replaced the stock pickup tube with a modded (larger-diameter) Killer-B tube. He was running significantly higher than the factory rev-limit though which was part of his problem, pressure drop at higher rpm was affecting him a lot more than most. As far as I've seen, the most common denominator *seems* to be earlier cars, mostly 2013s. I'm guessing that they might have improved the factory oiling at some point along the way? Mine could blow next weekend at Palmer after ~38 track days and 67k street miles, but if it does I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that it was due to indicated oil temps approaching 275F. Last edited by ZDan; 05-26-2022 at 03:28 PM. |
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05-26-2022, 03:40 PM | #22 |
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Over here i haven't seen any have issues on track, most of the engines that starts knocking seems to be road cars. The lubrication and bearing system is just badly designed, subaru have lots of weird design flaws over the years sadly. Like when the subaru diesels came here a couple of years back and they roasted their cranks on heaps of cars.
When porsche went wet sump with their boxer for 996/997 gen they started having issues with sticky tyres, mods are strongly recommended when tracking them. I remember warranty went to scrap if you ever tried it, since it was stated in the manual.
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05-26-2022, 04:40 PM | #23 |
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You can't just ignore and/or abuse them like a Honda, Toyota, or Miata motor if you want them to last.
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05-26-2022, 09:44 PM | #24 |
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I just realized I never asked: what oil do you typically run?
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05-26-2022, 09:56 PM | #25 | |
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Radium surge/swirl tank resolved the issues with fuel starve, but it also caused me to burn up a fuel pump (yesterday) when I ran the tank dry just idling in the garage while fiddling with soft rev limit tunes. .....And yes, I'm also boosted (with an oil cooler)... temps hit about 240F last weekend in 95F heat. Redline 30wt race oil. The oil doesn't break down at those temps, but film strength is definitely reduced so it's more susceptible to spinning bearings and whatnot because it's thin from the temps. |
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05-26-2022, 10:20 PM | #26 |
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Ran Total 5w30 synth the local shop stocks for a few years, last year ran 5w30 Redline. Car is at a more track-oriented shop now, will either run Redline, or the 5w30 synth they have on hand, or perhaps 0w40 Mobil1...
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05-27-2022, 01:54 AM | #27 | |||
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This is what I would have expected for years, but I do many different levels of racing in many regions and miatas always outnumber 86s. Its probably 3to1 miatas. At endurance races it is usually zero 86s with miatas taking the trophy. The 86 chassis is so much better, that I think its the engine. 200tw tires = lower G limits, and that makes a lot of sense. LOL thats because your oil is your coolant! But, it did get me thinking about the Porsche solution, and that solution was dry sump with head scavenge. Quote:
Maintenance is important of course but the difference between 3 and 4 track days is not a blown engine. Synthetic oil is so good that it is very abuse proof. a dozen track days and 270 degree oil will not destroy it. Now if you are using 0w20 that could be a problem. I'm going to guess that cautious maintainers are also cautious drivers and they aren't hitting the temps and Gs to cause starvation. Quote:
TLDR sounds like the answer. Does anyone make a plug and play dry sump kit for this car?? |
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05-27-2022, 03:04 AM | #28 |
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Oil 5w30 is better compared to the 0w20 for hotter climates and/or track use. It was mentioned in the car's manual too.
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