Full list of what I need for clutch/TOB replacement install?

[fillthee]

Hello,



I am in need of a new TOB because mine is making noises


I just want to make sure I have everything ordered correctly and know what I need fully. I will be getting the updated TOB from the dealer, so no worries there.



Would "all I need" besides the updated tob, is this? https://shop.redline360.com/products...3-2018-fjk1005 along with this flywheel? https://shop.redline360.com/products...13-2018-tyf001


Thank you for helping! If I need anything else, please let me know. Suggestions on cheapest prices would be cool too, but not needed of course

[Gamace]

Originally Posted by fillthee

Hello,



I am in need of a new TOB because mine is making noises


I just want to make sure I have everything ordered correctly and know what I need fully. I will be getting the updated TOB from the dealer, so no worries there.



Would "all I need" besides the updated tob, is this? https://shop.redline360.com/products...3-2018-fjk1005 along with this flywheel? https://shop.redline360.com/products...13-2018-tyf001


Thank you for helping! If I need anything else, please let me know. Suggestions on cheapest prices would be cool too, but not needed of course

What year is your car? Brother, we are in the same boat! Lol. My throw out bearing literally started giving issues three weeks ago and it screeches loudly now.

So I am in the process of waiting on my car parts now. You will need (it depends) the following:

1. Revised Throw Out Bearing with clips.

2. Clutch Fork (you don't need this unless your OEM one is damaged. I decided to get an upgrade - Verus Engineering Forged Clutch - as I am upgrading to a stage 1 Clutch.).

3. Cluth Fork Pivot (in my case I got the one made by Verus Engineering).

4. Clutch Kit (I ordered the Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit, on back order now. Might have to get the Exedy OEM Clutch if this takes forever to reach. I ordered this because currently I am making a little bit more power than stock, so I decided to go one stage above.).

5. Flywheel (I'm going to resurface my flywheel, hopefully it's not too worn out. At first I wanted to replace it but then decided maybe I don't need to).

6. Toyota Front Bearing Retainer Cover (this is what the Throw Out Bearing sits on. Sometimes, if your Throw out bearing is badly damaged, it damages this part and it's recommended to change it. 86speed sells this.).

I think that would be it, worst case scenario.

Toyota 86 in the building!

[Lantanafrs2]

Let it go for too long and you'll need an entire clutch. From experience

[Gamace]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

Let it go for too long and you'll need an entire clutch. From experience

This is true.

Toyota 86 in the building!

[fillthee]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

Let it go for too long and you'll need an entire clutch. From experience

How long did you drive around with the bad TOB?

[Lantanafrs2]

^probably 10k miles hoping I was just hearing things.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

^probably 10k miles hoping I was just hearing things.

God you were lucky!
Mine barely made it 1,000 after the screeching started. Every day I figured it would be fine for a bit longer since I have never ever ever had a TOB go in a car before.
It wasn't!
What could have been a simple and inexpensive bearing swap ended up as a full clutch replacement.

[blsfrs]

Earlier this spring, I installed an ACT clutch and Versus clutch fork in my FRS. After a week I had a squeak coming from the TOB. I ended up mounting a small return spring on the clutch fork using a zip tie. After some experimentation I found the right spring tension to keep the TOB off of the clutch to eliminate the squeak. It did not affect pedal feel. I also removed the pedal assist spring under the dash.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

God you were lucky!
Mine barely made it 1,000 after the screeching started. Every day I figured it would be fine for a bit longer since I have never ever ever had a TOB go in a car before.
It wasn't!
What could have been a simple and inexpensive bearing swap ended up as a full clutch replacement.

I’ve been ignoring mine for about 3 months but this morning it finally took a complete dump. Pedal goes to the floor and doesn’t return. Had to drive 45 mins in heavy traffic with no clutch which was a blast. Had to turn off the engine to get it in 1st and then use the starter motor to pull the car in 1st about 8 times. Got it home and at a glance it looks like the release fork is out of place like the bearing collapsed. I’ll know more when I drop the tranny this weekend.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ermax

I’ve been ignoring mine for about 3 months but this morning it finally took a complete dump. Pedal goes to the floor and doesn’t return. Had to drive 45 mins in heavy traffic with no clutch which was a blast. Had to turn off the engine to get it in 1st and then use the starter motor to pull the car in 1st about 8 times. Got it home and at a glance it looks like the release fork is out of place like the bearing collapsed. I’ll know more when I drop the tranny this weekend.

I was in the same boat when mine went. Had to drive about 20 miles doing clutch less shifts. It was probably entertaining to watch.

[ermax]

Well mine ended up not being related to a TOB failure. It was my pivot that failed. It was bent over causing the release fork to shift down. I grabbed it by hand and was able to snap it completely off. Now all I have is a little stub sticking out. I’m going to Dremel a flat head into the end of the stud and then put an impact screw drive on it and see if it will come out. Then I have to cross my fingers a new one will thread back in. I suspect the threads will be trashed.

It’s kind of pathetic the pivot can’t handle an OEM clutch.

[02maher]

My clutch is due for replacement... I didn't know what was wrong until I recently drove my friend's Frs the other day and he drove mine.
I had this car for 2 years now and it didn't get worse since then.
The car jerks at around 2500 RPM especially on high gears... But after 4000 RPM there is a good torque and it's smooth.

I'm looking to buy a clutch kit including the release bearing, pilot bearing and the fork; Should I consider changing something else like the flywheel?

[Gamace]

Originally Posted by 02maher

My clutch is due for replacement... I didn't know what was wrong until I recently drove my friend's Frs the other day and he drove mine.
I had this car for 2 years now and it didn't get worse since then.
The car jerks at around 2500 RPM especially on high gears... But after 4000 RPM there is a good torque and it's smooth.

I'm looking to buy a clutch kit including the release bearing, pilot bearing and the fork; Should I consider changing something else like the flywheel?

Your flywheel is probably in good condition so I wouldn't worry about that. I just changed my clutch two weeks ago now. Turns out it was only the Throw Out Bearing. My clutch disc had signs of slippage on it so I changed it same time too. Also change the Clutch Fork and Pivot to be on the safe side.

Toyota 86 in the building!

[vfrqqq]

Howdy all. Based on what I've read here and a few other threads, I believe have a bent clutch release fork or a bent pivot.

It started out with hard shifts in pretty much all gears following a transmission oil change. However, after I replaced the clutch hydraulic fluid (which wasn't low) and adjusted the clutch pushrod by about 1/4" to 3/8", the pushrod adjustment 100% solved the problem. A day later and probably only about 20 to 30 miles of driving, the issue came back fairly rapidly (i.e., within about 3 miles of city driving while I was returning from a local store to the point where I wasn't sure whether I'd be able to get home. Ended up rolling the car up my driveway under engine power, even with the clutch pedal pushed in all the way so that was fun and not a little terrifying.

I opened the hood and what I observed seems similar to what others have described here. The following picture shows the clutch release cylinder when the pedal is all the way out (i.e., clutch is fully engaged). It looks like the piston on the release cylinder isn't even touching or seated in the divot of the clutch release fork. Beyond that, I'm wondering if the rubber boot on the release fork has been dislodged, but I suppose that will become evident during a disassembly. When I asked my wife to push the clutch pedal in and then out while I watched the release cylinder, she ended up having to pull the pedal forward to get it back out.

So I'm guessing that after adjusting the clutch pushrod, it seems I perhaps just bent the release fork/pivot even further? The clutch fluid reservoir is still at the level I filled it to yesterday and I saw no evidence of a hydraulic leak it really just seems to have to do with the release fork or pivot. Does that sound about right or is there something else I should consider?