09-18-2019, 11:47 PM | #3669 | |
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10-16-2019, 10:43 AM | #3670 |
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I am looking to do a suspension upgrade this winter and this is a really great thread. I have a track oriented ’14 BRZ that sees light daily driving. I have upgraded brakes and exhaust/tuning. I generally like the way the car handles on the track, but am looking to increase overall grip, and reduce some of the understeer on corner exit of big sweepers (I am destroying RF tires on a mostly left turn track). I have Michelin PS4S (225/45 R17) and want to stay with those rather than go to a more focused track tire (Cup 2 or other).
I am thinking of something like Ohlin R&T with camber plates. To target something like -2 degrees camber upfront. At stock height I have -1.25 negative camber in rears right now (and zero camber upfront). I will want to test out stock height vs say a 20mm drop to see the difference. Here is my confusion. I have been told that Ohlin suggests spring rates of 50N/m (443 lbs/in) front and back. And they say those springs were sized assuming that you keep the OEM anti-sway bars in place (18mm and 14mm). This was surprising to me. This thread seems to suggest that using a combination of softer springs and stiff bars (like the OEM set up) is an “older” approach to suspension and that it is better to try to get the spring rates right directly and then use bars only to tune balance preference. At 443 lbs/in, this seemed to imply that without the bars, Ohlin was targeting something that had similar stiffness upfront to the OEM, but 35% more stiffness in the rear (using the really great “wheel rate” data on a related suspension model thread https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...t=26661&page=8). For a road and track suspension, this seemed like a good place to start. But if you keep the OEM 18mm/14mm bars attached and just add the Ohlins, that is increasing a lot of stiffness all around (plus adding more in the back). Which outcome was Ohlin targeting when they recommended 50N/m springs in their coilovers? Or am I misunderstanding something here? |
10-16-2019, 11:07 AM | #3671 |
10-16-2019, 01:00 PM | #3672 | |
Quote:
To make it more simple, are you comparing these 3 hypothetical set ups with your tires? 1. Stock 2. Ohlins with 50 N/mm springs 3. #2 but with stiffer swaybars - Andrew |
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10-18-2019, 06:09 AM | #3673 | |
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Can you elaborate on that? I don't have an issue pressing the old bushings out. I am a little hesitant putting poly bushings in areas where the old bushing moves in more than one axis. |
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10-18-2019, 06:57 AM | #3674 |
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Whiteline ALK may fail for some, with metallic insert separating from poly bushing. Well, at least it did fail this way for me. Currently replaced it with non-eccentric power suspensions front LCA front poly bushing. There is extra caster from pedders top mount, so not seeing extra caster from front bushing of front LCA that needed. Also there might be "too much" caster, as everything, that makes steering heavier, eg. increasing scrub radius, lot more caster, imho may put more load on our electric power steering, which was prone to overheating on older twins (IIRC fixed .. not sure though if on MY2015 or MY2017), recalling reading post where for someone reducing caster helped/fixed with EPS overheating/switching off problem.
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10-18-2019, 01:17 PM | #3675 | |
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- Andrew Last edited by Racecomp Engineering; 10-19-2019 at 11:26 PM. |
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10-30-2019, 04:12 PM | #3676 | |
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I've somehow finished reading this entire thread and I have a few questions remaining.
Slight crosspost from another thread> Quote:
With regard to camber. I'd like to save the money on plates and go with bolts but that alone won't get me enough camber. Does slotting the OE strut and adding camber bolts to the top hole sound as crazy as I'm afraid it does? If I mirrored the slots from something like the T2's what ballpark would that get me to? Looking for -2 to -2.5. If the rear turns out to be heavily mismatched or too low then I will spring for SPL's and just get that problem solved without too much thought. May eventually do subframe and transmission/diff bushings but I feel like I will "forget" to do these if I don't end up with a personal 2 post lift. |
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10-30-2019, 04:55 PM | #3677 | |
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Quote:
I've also seen Pedders offset strut mounts but don't know anyone to confirm how well they work. They are pretty cheap though, so worth a try? |
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10-31-2019, 12:25 AM | #3678 |
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timurrrr: they work fine. Not that cheap though (price is for one, you need two).
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11-17-2019, 12:31 PM | #3679 |
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Coilovers for Widebody considerations
Hey CSG and RCE. I know many are on air when doing overfenders, but i want to go coils. Can you school me on what coils to get so i can get the right ones the first time? Tracking is not in the equation for me.
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11-17-2019, 04:15 PM | #3680 |
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inb4 racecomp superstreet and csg tein flex
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The Following User Says Thank You to strat61caster For This Useful Post: | i8ur911 (11-17-2019) |
11-17-2019, 06:58 PM | #3681 | |
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What's your concern? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk |
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11-19-2019, 12:24 PM | #3682 |
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there were a set of csg flex a's for sale a while ago but i missed them. theres a set of rce zero's up for sale right now, u think theyd be well suited? i suppose im looking to buy nice, not buy twice. but also im not a performance driver, i dont want to be the guy showing up for tryouts with pro level gear. i just looking to get whats par for the course.
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