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07-26-2018, 06:38 AM | #141 |
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About 4 months.
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Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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07-26-2018, 03:44 PM | #142 | |
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When I step in my clutch it just stinks to the floor and stays there. And my shifter is impossible to move into gear (except 3rd gear). Any ideas what the cause could be? I did the slave cylinder swap that others are doing to improve clutch pedal feel, and when I tried to bleed the clutch, no fluid comes out when I pump the clutch pedal. It's stuck to the floor so u have to raise/press it by hand. I didn't plan to do this clutch cylinder swap right away, but when I tried to install the original one, it was already broken.. the pin couldn't be pushed back into the cylinder no matter how hard I tried, there was something obstructing it on the inside. It's just been a frustrating experience so far. Any suggestions on what could be wrong is greatly appreciated. It's the first major work I've done on my car besides basic maintenance/ brakes/fluids, so I'm not used to diagnosing problems like this. |
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07-26-2018, 03:59 PM | #143 | |
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Did you follow these directions for bleeding? https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...38726092437403 It's very important that while bleeding that you keep the fluid level between min/max. If it runs dry you are literally starting all over. I also assume you didn't mess with anything related to the shifter on the inside of the car. If you did, it's possible you didn't get the reverse lockout lined back up properly. I would also double check that you got the linkage under the car back together properly. Regardless of what is wrong, don't stress out too much. There's really not much that can really go wrong here. Nothing that can't be fixed for free. You may need to buy more fluid but that's about it. |
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07-26-2018, 04:08 PM | #144 | |
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They gave me the same schpiel but I was pretty certain it was the TOB because of all the videos of the exact same noise out there. Good luck homie |
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07-26-2018, 04:16 PM | #145 | |
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And unfortunately I did mess with the inside of the car. I followed the DIY about installing a clutch. I didn't mess with the inside until I got to a point where I could take off the transmission, so I took everything off on the inside just to be sure something wasn't stuck. About the linkage, I secured the rod going from the bottom of the shifter to the transmission if that's what you mean. If there's something else about the linkage that I didn't do, let me know. I don't think I reinstalled the reverse lockout correctly because nothing happens when I pull up on the shifter to go into reverse. I just hope I don't have to pull apart the transmission again |
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07-26-2018, 04:41 PM | #146 | |
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So this is good news then. You just need to fix the lockout which is very easy. Here are the directions from the service manual but I didn't even follow them. I just loosened it up so it could slide around a little and then a moved the shifter around until it would go into 1st and 2nd but not reverse and the tightened the bolts. https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...59894263533865 Once you get the shifter working correctly then you can focus on bleeding the clutch. Two rules when bleeding is, don't run dry and don't let the clutch up unless the bleeder valve is closed. If either of those things happen you are just putting air back in the system. Get a friend to help out with this process. Just have them top off the reservoir as it drops and maybe open/close the valve for you. |
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07-26-2018, 11:20 PM | #147 | |
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As for the clutch, when I try to bleed it... ugh. When I step on the clutch pedal, it springs really fast to the floor and stays there. I guess that's the helper spring in action when there's no hydraulic pressure from the fluid...? And it doesn't engage the slave cylindar either. When I switched out the slave cylindar, I might've gotten air in the system, but it's like there's no pressure at all now. So basically I can't pump fluid out to bleed the system, and I'm not sure how to tell if it's the cylindar/fluid is at fault or the if I messed up elsewhere. The only thing I did during my clutch/TOB install was unbolt the slave cylinder to pull off the tranny. After putting the tranny back on, is when I discovered the slave cylindar's rod couldn't be pushed back in. It's a pretty simple swap replacing it, I can't imagine I screwed that up. Any advice on how to diagnose what's wrong now? |
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07-28-2018, 12:58 PM | #148 | |
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Old #30502AA051, New #30502AA150. Last edited by Trueweltall; 07-28-2018 at 01:13 PM. |
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Trueweltall For This Useful Post: |
07-29-2018, 07:39 PM | #149 | |
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I just swapped mines out the other day.. There was no obvious difference to me. Not sure what the old part number was though. The old one appears identical to the new #30502AA150 part. Minus the white dot and a ton of gunk. |
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08-06-2018, 06:28 PM | #150 |
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There were mines in your transmission?! That sounds pretty dangerous...
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08-07-2018, 09:19 AM | #151 | |
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Quote:
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08-07-2018, 09:52 AM | #152 | |
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Quote:
__________________
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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10-01-2018, 02:43 PM | #153 |
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2018+ has part number 30502AA130 for the TOB. will that work?
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10-01-2019, 12:50 AM | #154 | |
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Quote:
https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-part...RzJms9MQ%3D%3D AA150 seems to apply to BRZ: https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-part...ing-30502aa150 Whats your source? Mine might not be correct either, but I'm to tired to confirm. |
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