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05-31-2019, 04:43 PM | #15 |
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Yup me mum too - crap now i'm turning British
I knew these Japanese cars would lead to No Good! Now I have to drive my Range Rover home to the country (shire) and drive my Jag XF to get over it - Wait I am British |
The Following User Says Thank You to Fast13FRS For This Useful Post: | humfrz (05-31-2019) |
05-31-2019, 07:35 PM | #16 | |
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05-31-2019, 11:39 PM | #17 | ||
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Please listen to @RZNT4R, a nitrogen purge and leak test is a must to remove contaminants and non-condensables out of the system properly. Then when they add new refrigerant to properly extend the life of the compressor they should add a compressor refrigerant oil as some of it will be removed by a vacuum pumping process. 6 years and 93000 miles is about the time when certain things start to gain leaks and need to be repaired so do it right. If it hasn't been done before using a condenser cleaner like nubrite and replacing the cabin air filter would help a bit when this is properly fixed as well. You wouldn't repair a HVAC system at your house without a professional so don't start here even though it's a smaller scale.
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06-01-2019, 08:48 AM | #18 |
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I have a slightly similar issue but it only blows cold on the passenger side.
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06-01-2019, 02:08 PM | #20 |
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That's awesome I have been told I have the mentality of a 3 year old!
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06-01-2019, 02:17 PM | #21 |
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06-02-2019, 08:51 AM | #22 | |
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When the car goes in to limp mode the AC stops working. Have you checked for any fault codes? |
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06-02-2019, 10:21 AM | #23 | |
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His compressor runs, but no cold comes from it. That usually means a system discharged just enough that the pressure switches let it operate, but greatly reduced refrigeration to the point of total inefficacy. |
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06-02-2019, 06:15 PM | #24 |
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I've experienced an issue a couple of times where my A/C would cut out. It was relatively warm day .. but not too hot.
Situation: Car was fully warmed up (been driving on the freeway ~15 minutes) and the AC cuts but fan keeps blowing. Nothing is flashing, the AC light is on. Turning the AC on and off did nothing. I had to restart the car while driving (killed the engine and turned it back on). I had to do this 2 more times several minutes afterward. I haven't found out why that has happened.
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06-02-2019, 06:36 PM | #25 | |
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06-02-2019, 11:28 PM | #26 | |
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06-12-2019, 08:24 PM | #27 |
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Just wanted to update
Brought my car in to the dealership, paid for an AC recharge They tested with a dye and also pressure tested prior to recharging with new R134A, no signs of serious leak in the system AC blows ice cold air instantly now as before and is now working properly |
The Following User Says Thank You to highway7 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (06-12-2019) |
08-01-2021, 08:43 AM | #28 |
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Define "cleaning the air conditionner".
Cleaning the air distribution conduits? Cleaning the actual refrigeration system? Both questions have no clear cut answers. You may not have to clean the air distribution system ever, or you may have to do it often depending on how much and how you use the AC, how often you service the cabin air filter, etc. I don't use my AC very often, and when I do I manually afterblow it to dry the evaporator core to keep funny smells from developing on a wet core left to sit. If you live in a humid climate and stop your car with the AC on full blast, you're basically leaving a big puddle of standing water in your dash that can grow algae or fungi and stink up things. If it ever starts to smell, they sell sprays for that stuff that you can shoot into the ac fan while it runs to kills that stuff and get rid of the smell. Some makers build in an afterblow function into the AC which keeps the fan running after the car is shut down to dry the evaporator. The twins don't have that, just turn off the AC and keep the fan blowing a minute or two before you reach your destination to avoid the problem. The refrigeration system can go the life of the car, or it may not. normally, as long as it's sealed and contaminants are kept out it'll work as it should. Even if you spring a leak, as long as you catch it quick and the empty system isn't left to stand in the elements with a hole in it, contaminants shouldn't enter and a simple repair and recharge would be all that's needed to return the system to normal operation. If you've got a nasty situation like a compressor that failed internally, then yeah, the system would need to be flushed and condenser/filter replaced to avoid shrapnel from the old compressor killing the new one. |
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