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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 08-02-2018, 07:44 PM   #85
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Finally got the hydraulic line bolt for the OEM slave cylinder in... Didn't help though, still can't shift into gear

Guess it's time to pull the tranny off again.
At least I ordered a forged fork this time.. just one more variable to eliminate from this problem.
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:03 PM   #86
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I think I may have found the issue to my clutch disengagement problem...

This is what you get when you ram the transmission into the engine when putting things back together lol

Bottom pic is what it's supposed to look like
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:43 PM   #87
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You had the disk in backwards?

Edit: Oh I see now, you mangled the faces of the splines. Did the new clutch come with an alignment tool? I think I recall seeing you ask if it is hard to do without a tool. The answer to that is yes. They normally come with a plastic alignment tool though. How do the splines look on the trany?

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Old 08-03-2018, 03:27 PM   #88
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Tranny spline is still good. I assume they make those a lot harder than on the clutch. Thankfully, otherwise I'd be looking for a new tranny spline.

I got the plastic alignment tool. But all it does is center the clutch/pressure plate with the flywheel. It doesn't actually help you align the tranny & clutch spline when you're bolting the tranny to the engine.
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Old 08-03-2018, 03:32 PM   #89
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Tranny spline is still good. I assume they make those a lot harder than on the clutch. Thankfully, otherwise I'd be looking for a new tranny spline.

I got the plastic alignment tool. But all it does is center the clutch/pressure plate with the flywheel. It doesn't actually help you align the tranny & clutch spline when you're bolting the tranny to the engine.
Yeah that is all the tool is good for but try it without the tool and the disk off center even the smallest amount and it's nearly impossible to ever get the tranny back on.

When you put it back on make sure you have it in neutral. That will allow the tranny to rotate so the splines line up easier. Also the alignment tools sometimes have a little play in them. Make sure you have the tool nice and square. The tranny should slide flush to the engine without using the bolts to pull it up. If you have to use the bolts to force it on then most likely the disk isn't aligned well.
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Old 08-03-2018, 03:41 PM   #90
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My alignment tool is pretty good, no play. I just gotta find a way to slowly rotate the spline if it doesn't slide in easily.

File that under things I wished I knew before starting on this 10 days ago.

On this bright side, I feel confident taking the tranny off & on now in half the time it took during my first attempt. And I went ahead and got some shifter & tranny bushings since my transmission was out so long.
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Old 08-03-2018, 03:49 PM   #91
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My alignment tool is pretty good, no play. I just gotta find a way to slowly rotate the spline if it doesn't slide in easily.

File that under things I wished I knew before starting on this 10 days ago.

On this bright side, I feel confident taking the tranny off & on now in half the time it took during my first attempt. And I went ahead and got some shifter & tranny bushings since my transmission was out so long.
Normally in neutral it will turn on it's own. You can also put it in gear (any gear, just grab the linkage and push or pull it) and turn it by hand where the prop shaft bolts up.
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Old 08-03-2018, 04:00 PM   #92
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Normally in neutral it will turn on it's own. You can also put it in gear (any gear, just grab the linkage and push or pull it) and turn it by hand where the prop shaft bolts up.
Ok thanks, I'll try that. I'm not sure what gear I was in last time. And I took the shifter carriage off this time to put in the Cusco bushings.
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Old 08-03-2018, 05:42 PM   #93
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Ok thanks, I'll try that. I'm not sure what gear I was in last time. And I took the shifter carriage off this time to put in the Cusco bushings.
Nice photos! I bet all the my-clutch-drags-after-replacement threads are from exactly this issue.

You're in good company but only in how you got there. Your humility and methodical approach put you in the Fast-Learner group. Kudos for not giving up!
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:23 PM   #94
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Nice photos! I bet all the my-clutch-drags-after-replacement threads are from exactly this issue.

You're in good company but only in how you got there. Your humility and methodical approach put you in the Fast-Learner group. Kudos for not giving up!
Thanks Ultramaroon! I wasn't about to tow it to a shop after 10 days of literally sweating 5 lbs away in this summer heat lol. Stubbornness can be a good thing every now and then

And thanks to everyone for all the tips, suggestions, and insights! Especially @ermax for all the PM's and messaging... the shifter picture was still the most helpful. I don't think I would've figured out how to put my shifter back in without it.

I finally got the [2nd] new clutch in and drove my car home late last night!
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Old 07-19-2020, 08:11 PM   #95
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Hey all, bringing an old thread back.
I just got my Spec Stage 2 clutch installed on my 2016 Scion FRS. New throwout bearing and Verus forged clutch fork was installed as well as a brand new OEM flywheel.

I'm currently about 80 miles of city driving into the break-in period and noticed when pushing in the clutch and switching from 4th to 5th gear, my RPMs would jump up maybe 300 or so RPM, but it doesn't do this on any of the other gears (yes my foot is completely off the throttle). I was also locked out of reverse and first regardless of a cold or warm transmission, so I conducted the test to see if my clutch was dragging. I clutched in, red-lined it and noticed my car crept forward ever so slightly.

My clutch pedal is currently sitting about a centimeter above the break pedal, should I take it back to the shop that installed it? I don't believe I smell any clutch, but the RPM jumping from 4-5 definitely surprised me. I raised the pedal a tiny bit more to see if I would still be locked out of the gears and it's mainly reverse that I'm locked out of from a complete stop. The reverse lockout plate was marked with a sharpie prior to removing so it's definitely aligned.
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