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05-22-2014, 05:20 PM | #29 |
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My FRS died on the side of the road today. EFI/IGN fuse blown and popped instantly when a new one was inserted so I suspected a short circuit somewhere but couldn't locate it on the side of the road. I had it towed back to my shop.
Thanks for the post I'll look over my injector wires and see if anything is shorted out. |
05-30-2014, 07:07 PM | #30 |
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Coil pack #3 has a hole melted in it. Defective I would imagine as I couldn't find a short in any wiring.
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09-28-2014, 02:18 PM | #31 |
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My car died smack dab in the middle of an autocross course! Better than side of the road. Same 15A EFI Control fuse blowing issue as OP. Had it towed to the dealer (thank goodness for AAA saving me money on that) and will hear back sometime tomorrow. Very unlikely I'll manage any kind of warranty work on this as I've heavily modded the car, but I'll post what I find out.
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09-29-2014, 01:54 AM | #32 |
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Happened on mine today, and because of this thread I fixed it.
Injector on cylinder number 3 is the issue. Hits on the metal plate. Just remove the three ecu bolts, and the two 12mm bolts that hold the bracket. The red wire will show skin, and the back plate you will see where it was rubbing. Repaired it with electrical tape over the insulation after inspecting the rest of it and cyl 1. Added a thin rubber seal o avoid metal contact just in case but I doubt it. Replaced the 15amp ign(CTL) fuse, installed the terminals and wala.
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09-30-2014, 09:53 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
any chance of posting a picture of where this rubbing wire is?? Last edited by BRZnut; 10-02-2014 at 09:33 PM. |
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10-04-2014, 09:14 AM | #34 |
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Hey..do you guys think we should all check this area and do something to protect the wire now? What side are we talking about anyway...passenger?
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01-24-2018, 09:16 PM | #35 |
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2013 FRS with 60K miles on it died after replacing the battery
[QUOTE=Tt3Sheppard;778003]Turning onto the street in front of my work and across the street from the Toyota dealer my car decided to die. Basically the engine stayed on but would not accelerate. Lights on the dash were abs, traction, battery, and oil light. No check engine light though. Car would not start back up again either.
This exact same thing just happened to me, if I boost the car, it will run fine for a few minutes and than it will stall again. Tt3Sheppard, what resolved your problem? I am out of warranty on my car and can't afford major work to be done. Hoping for DIY on this. My car had been sitting parked for 3 weeks, I had to replace the battery when I returned. The battery light stayed on after changing the battery, drove fine for maybe 15 miles than the exact same scenario as described by Tt3Sheppard. Help Please. |
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01-24-2018, 09:20 PM | #36 | |
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[quote=ultramarinefrs;3033288]
Quote:
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01-25-2018, 08:36 PM | #37 |
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Status update;
The mechanic who diagnosed my car confirmed it was the alternator. I will pick up the car tomorrow morning, will update everyone with the details. |
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01-25-2018, 09:34 PM | #38 |
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01-26-2018, 01:00 AM | #40 | |
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Quote:
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01-26-2018, 07:05 AM | #41 | |
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Quote:
1) Power source - Need power to begin with. Battery had been changed already. 2) Connections and wiring - Having power is no good if it cant flow. In the case of the battery power needs to flow in and out. 3) Components/equipment - If you have power and it flows then the issue is with a component. Start with the component that that ensures your power and work forward from there.
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01-26-2018, 11:34 AM | #42 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (01-26-2018) |
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