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02-16-2017, 12:05 AM | #15 |
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Eibach Pro or Swift are both great choices. Consider though, that's only 0.25" further down than my car. That's not a lot. Sportlines or RS*R superdowns would drop you further. Potentially putting additional wear on your struts, but some people have put tens of thousands of miles on them with no issues.
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02-16-2017, 12:08 AM | #16 |
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Measure the wheel gap and find springs that have the same drop.
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02-16-2017, 12:09 AM | #17 |
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I feel comfortable at 1 inch, so we are talking eibach pros or swift? They hold up well? As compared to the ST'S I've seen multiple reviews of how they have them swapped out every 10 to 20 thousand miles because they start bouncing?
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02-16-2017, 12:09 AM | #18 |
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Eibach sportlines.
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02-16-2017, 12:14 AM | #19 |
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Both the Pros and Swifts are great choices. The TRD springs are actually rebadged Eibach Pros. You can't really go wrong with either, so read reviews on both and see which you like more.
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02-16-2017, 12:18 AM | #20 |
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Thanks brother! I did initially want the sportlines but have read mixed reviews. Aren't they designed to work with the stock struts and have a "million mile warranty"?
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02-16-2017, 12:26 AM | #21 |
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The only brand I know of with a "million mile warranty" is Borla exhausts. Struts are naturally wearing parts, so they will need to be replaced eventually. How fast they wear depends on how hard you use them. I have close to 50K miles on my RCE Yellows and OEM struts. @Tcoat has about that on RS*R superdowns (1.5" down) and OEM struts with no issues. Others do a lot of autoX or HPDE and will wear out their struts in 10-20K miles. There's really no way to tell. But yes, Sportlines are designed to work with OEM struts.
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02-16-2017, 12:30 AM | #22 |
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I might consider sportlines then! It's either something like that or get coil overs but I'm really trying to save the extra cash until I can do it right and still have a nice feeling ride that can get down to business as well 😈
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02-16-2017, 12:33 AM | #23 |
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Look in the regional forum and see if someone will help you do the install. It's pretty easy, so paying a shop to do it isn't necessarily a required expense.
Also, get camber bolts and get an alignment. Springs are great, but an incorrect alignment makes the car handle really badly. |
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02-16-2017, 12:52 AM | #24 | |
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02-16-2017, 01:10 AM | #25 |
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If you're doing the install yourself you'll need pass through sockets and 5mm and 6mm hex wrenches.
You'll get rear camber just from lowering. Add camber bolts in the front and get as much negative camber as you can. Set the front toe to zero, the rear toe to slightly toe in (0.05 each side for 0.1 total), and you'll have a very responsive car that is stable at highway speeds. |
02-16-2017, 01:12 AM | #26 |
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I keep reading I'll need rear LCA'S if I do the sportlines. Is this true? So I won't be able to ride at stock camber? I don't really understand camber 😳
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02-16-2017, 01:24 AM | #27 |
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You might need rear LCAs, but you won't know until you get an alignment. If the two sides are close to even and about where you want, then you won't need them. If they're really uneven or you want to be able to adjust, then you will need them. SPC works for not a lot of money. There are a lot of awesome billet aluminum options for more money.
You can ride at stock camber, but if you're already under the car then it's two more bolts to replace and another $25 spent to get better handling. Camber denotes how much the wheel is tilted from top to bottom. Negative camber (wheel tilted in at the top) greatly helps improve handling. The exact amount is open to discussion, because it depends on how you drive and what you want from your car. Camber bolts are limited in their adjustment range, so install them and get as much negative camber as they can give you and you'll be fine. Check the suspension forum sticky threads for RCE's suspension Q&A thread. There is a lot of good information in there. |
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02-16-2017, 01:26 AM | #28 | |
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