08-02-2016, 08:17 PM | #99 | |
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You think you can show me all the tools you used ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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08-07-2016, 12:02 PM | #100 |
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I changed my plugs yesterday at 100,056 miles and it took me, an amature wrencher, under 3 hours. The motor is simple to raise up after you remove 2- 14mm nuts and it raises up easily and gives you much more room to work. I found the left, drivers, side to be harder than the right when it was jacked up. My secret weapon was a short magnetic extension that was used to remove and screw in the spark plug initially. See the pics below for the tools I used and what my 100,000 mile plugs look like. I just realized I forgot to include the extendable magnet tool that was also very important in getting it done.
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08-07-2016, 06:26 PM | #101 |
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08-12-2016, 12:55 PM | #102 |
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Is everyone here using a light coat of anti-sieze on the spark plug threads before installing?
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08-12-2016, 08:34 PM | #103 | |
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I never have used anti-seize on spark plugs and I've never had a plug I couldn't get out. Besides, that stuff messes with my built in, calibrated wrist, "spark plug tight" bio-sensor. humfrz |
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08-13-2016, 10:43 AM | #104 | |
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08-13-2016, 02:58 PM | #105 | |
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You may wish to look into that and take that under consideration. humfrz |
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08-13-2016, 08:18 PM | #106 |
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Those plugs don't look to bad for 100k, could you tell any difference after the change? |
08-14-2016, 11:41 AM | #107 |
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would be interesting to see a pic of the tip of the old next to the new plugs. But as stated above, for 100K they don't look too bad.
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08-14-2016, 08:58 PM | #108 |
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08-14-2016, 09:19 PM | #109 |
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When I changed the plugs I also switched back to the OEM header & tune, cleaned the K&N air filter and did an oil change so it's not Apples to apples. That said, my car is running great after all of that work.
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08-21-2016, 03:38 PM | #110 |
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Just did mine, an hour and a half. Passenger side remove ECU driver. Driver side remove fuel line plastic clip (3 lines) and injector cover. Didn't need anything special, just a 14mm deep well, 3" 3/8 drive extension.
They key is not to push any of the socket stuff together enough for them to clip together with the ball detent. Just put the 14mm deep well on the plug, loosely insert the extension, and get the end of the extension with the ratchet. Don't let any of the pieces click together, you only need to turn it enough to break loose the plugs. Once the plug is broken loose, I used some fuel hose to remove them. Slightly harder than my WRX, but same basic principle. And the coil harness plug/clips are easier on the FRS.
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08-22-2016, 07:14 PM | #111 |
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Great write up.
I just did mine like this and it took me 3 hours total. I was working slow also. I used a 3/8" drive deepwell 9/16" socket attached to a 3/8" drive reduced to 1/4" drive to a short 1/4" extension to a 1/4" drive ratchet. This seemed to be the best. I tried 3/8" tools and couldn't fit them in there. I had the reducer clipped onto the socket and inserted it, then I clipped the extension on with the ratchet. Used a screw driver to remove the extension from the ratchet and the extension from the reducer since I can't grab both at the same time.
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10-10-2016, 12:35 PM | #112 |
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