2016 BRZ Head Unit Wiring Harness

[Luftwaffel]

Nice looking harness actually. The factory amp won't trigger if he uses it though, still need to splice into the 28-pin since its a BRZ.

I've decided I'm not going to pursue any attempt at reusing the factory microphone since it is an amplified mic. I feel like it doesn't have a high chance of working well, it's a pain to get the correct voltage measured and applied to it, and I don't want to damage something attempting it when it's easy enough to just route the aftermarket HU mic. Plus, it'll probably sound better.

[tk1138]

There's an option to buy additional harness pins (sockets) for the connector that could be used to get the amp signal.
If I'd known about that backup camera harness a week ago, I would have gone straight to that. At this point, idk. It's a bit expensive, but it looks like exactly what I need.

The factory mic does seem like a lot of effort for marginal gain. Did you have any initial observations on the supply voltage for it?
Are you using an L7806 or LM317 for the regulator? I think that's what I'm going to use.

[tk1138]

Originally Posted by tk1138

To the OP, you might look at this:
Amazon.com: Scosche Direct Connection Harness 87-Up Toyota To 2003 Kenwood 16 Pin Connector: Automotive
and this:
http://www.autoharnesshouse.com/11443.html

You might also need an antenna adapter and/or a USB adapter.

The checkout on the autoharnesshouse website looks kinda sketchy (does not supply identity information), heads up...

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by tk1138

There's an option to buy additional harness pins (sockets) for the connector that could be used to get the amp signal.
If I'd known about that backup camera harness a week ago, I would have gone straight to that. At this point, idk. It's a bit expensive, but it looks like exactly what I need.

The factory mic does seem like a lot of effort for marginal gain. Did you have any initial observations on the supply voltage for it?
Are you using an L7806 or LM317 for the regulator? I think that's what I'm going to use.

I don't have my Starlink system anymore so I'd have a hard time pulling voltage readings. I'm also not sure about leaving it powered when not actually in use.

I used an LM317T but it smoked itself for no apparent reason upon power-on. At that point I decided it wouldn't cost much more to just order one off Amazon that comes with a nice little enclosure. In other words, I went full lazy.

[TommyC]

Originally Posted by tk1138

The checkout on the autoharnesshouse website looks kinda sketchy (does not supply identity information), heads up...

Looks like they use PayPal for checkout, which means it is probably OK.

[tk1138]

They fixed the issue, so the checkout looks OK now. For the weekend, they were fast on the email.

[Luftwaffel]

TL;DR: Spaghetti.

[sLoPy]

I'm actually in the same boat. I have a 2016 BRZ with Starlink Radio and I'm currently in process of replacing it with an Android based radio while trying to retaining my factor Microphone, USB, Radio Antenna, Aux Input, and Backup Camera. I'm very close. Just need to finish up my custom harnesses (waiting on capacitors to arrive).


I've compiled a pin out for the 28pin connector after extensive search on google and pinning out the radio wiring in my car. I've attached a picture of the pin outs. Hopefully this helps.


The 16 pin connector (10pin and 6pin connector) are essentially the same as the previous years BRZ except for the relocation of the Amp signal. As Luftwaffel originally pointed out, the Amp signal has been moved to Pin 9 (Brown wire) of the 28pin connector.

[SPCorBUST]

I installed the Starlink in my '13, and it works okay except for the bass. I know I need to use a double run or parallel connector to get that back though. Any chance you gurus know the gauge of the wires back there? I know the two wires to use, but not the wire sizes. Any assistance is appreciated

[TommyC]

Originally Posted by sLoPy

I'm actually in the same boat. I have a 2016 BRZ with Starlink Radio and I'm currently in process of replacing it with an Android based radio while trying to retaining my factor Microphone, USB, Radio Antenna, Aux Input, and Backup Camera. I'm very close. Just need to finish up my custom harnesses (waiting on capacitors to arrive).


I've compiled a pin out for the 28pin connector after extensive search on google and pinning out the radio wiring in my car. I've attached a picture of the pin outs. Hopefully this helps.


The 16 pin connector (10pin and 6pin connector) are essentially the same as the previous years BRZ except for the relocation of the Amp signal. As Luftwaffel originally pointed out, the Amp signal has been moved to Pin 9 (Brown wire) of the 28pin connector.

Great info. What are the capacitors for? Were capacitors needed in previous years?

I'm thinking I might just keep my stock head unit and use a LOC for a subwoofer until there is a commercial solution available for my aftermarket HU.

[sLoPy]

The capacitors were for the 6V Camera and 5V Mic power regulators (p.n: L7806, L7805) that I used to retain the factory parts. I just followed the example circuit on the spec sheets for the power regulators. I forgot who, but I got the info from someones how to on the forum.

I finished the install a couple of days ago. Backup camera and Aux works great. I Haven't tried the Mic yet. And I can't seem to find an adapter cable for the USB. I guess its too new. Hopefully companies will start making them soon.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by Luftwaffel

[Wiring diagram for OEM camera retention, with 6V voltage converter & relay]

TL;DR: Spaghetti.

You don't need that relay.

If you only wish to be able to view the camera when you actually shift into reverse:

• Connect 12V Reverse Gear signal to HU and to the 12V input of the voltage converter.
• Connect the converter module's 6V output directly to the CA+ (pin #11).

If you wish to be able to view the camera at arbitrary times (which many aftermarket HUs can do), in addition to it automatically popping up when you shift into reverse:

• Connect 12V Reverse Gear signal to HU.
• Connect 12V input of the voltage converter to car's +12V ACC power (as you drew).
• Connect converter module's 6V output directly to the CA+ (pin #11).

[SVXdc]

Metra has a new 28-pin harness that is much closer to what you want: AX-SUB28SWC.

It has a yellow male RCA plug (connected to the correct pins for the OEM rear camera), and a yellow lead for the 6V camera power (CAUTION: Ignore Metra's instructions that say to connect that wire to your car's +12V Battery/constant power!).

The harness also has leads which provide the car's reverse gear, parking brake, and speed signals (VSS). The only thing it lacks is a lead for the OEM speaker amplifier trigger.

I can put together a modified version that omits the unneeded ASWC (steering wheel) portion, and adds a blue/white wire for amp trigger. FFI, e-mail me (or if you PM me, include your e-mail).

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by SVXdc

You don't need that relay.

If you only wish to be able to view the camera when you actually shift into reverse:

• Connect 12V Reverse Gear signal to HU and to the 12V input of the voltage converter.
• Connect the converter module's 6V output directly to the CA+ (pin #11).

If you wish to be able to view the camera at arbitrary times (which many after market HUs can do), in addition to it automatically popping up when you shift into reverse:

• Connect 12V Reverse Gear signal to HU.
• Connect 12V input of the voltage converter to car's +12V ACC power (as you drew).
• Connect converter module's 6V output directly to the CA+ (pin #11).

I was hesitant to put the camera load on the reverse wire because I didn't know both what fuse it was on, and what else was on the circuit. I've been meaning to do exactly what you mentioned though, because fuck it.