Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by LostSalad

Hi @CSG Mike, this is quite the thread you have going here.

I have an 86 with no power mods, but I'm considering upgrading to a BBK. My local track is hard on brakes and I have the budget right now, so I figured I might as well.

I have the option of going with semi-float or full-float discs. As far as I'm concerned, both are probably more than ample performance-wise. I just need to deal with the heat, not necessarily stopping power or braking feel. Therefore my main concern is long-term running costs and street performance because the car is my daily.

So far I am considering going with semi-float, because in my mind less moving parts = less maintenance. Would you agree that this is a good idea? The larger discs are pretty much guaranteed to sort out my heat issues, so I don't need many other benefits from a floating assembly. What's your opinion?

Don't concern yourself whether the system is a semi-float or full-float. Heat dissipation is the real benefit, like you mentioned. Get the largest BBK you can afford that doesn't affect your brake bias, and your heat issues should be greatly reduced.

[Jeffsu350]

I have tried to search, but I've been unsuccessful. I am going to auto club ROVAL on Saturday and just got some 215/45/17 rivals on stock wheels. The rest of the car is 100% stock (minus the W5 pads). Any suggestions for starting cold tire pressure. I'm bringing chalk so I can adjust, but I really have no idea where to start. 30 psi? 32 psi? 28 psi? Thanks


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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Jeffsu350

I have tried to search, but I've been unsuccessful. I am going to auto club ROVAL on Saturday and just got some 215/45/17 rivals on stock wheels. The rest of the car is 100% stock (minus the W5 pads). Any suggestions for starting cold tire pressure. I'm bringing chalk so I can adjust, but I really have no idea where to start. 30 psi? 32 psi? 28 psi? Thanks


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30 driver side, 28 passenger side.

[Jeffsu350]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

30 driver side, 28 passenger side.

THANKS! I can't wait to try the new tires and pads. I'll let you know how it goes after this weekend.


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[Jeffsu350]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

30 driver side, 28 passenger side.

Thanks again CSG Mike! Had an awesome day at autoclub speedway. The new tires and W5 pads were amazing. I've never felt more confident in my car or my driving.

As always, thanks to counter space garage and mike for all the help and awesome service getting me the right stuff for the track.


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[ShadowTS]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Maximize the camber; bolts will not be able to get you so much camber that it will significantly change your tire wear.

Align any time your steering wheel is not straight. Ideally, have your alignment checked if possible, anytime you spin our or go flying off track sideways. Keep an eye on yuor tire wear, and if you notice unusual wear, have your alignment checked.

Hi Mike,

I had my car aligned. I've suggested the mechanic to maximize the front camber, and set 0 toe front, and a little toe in back (0.05° - 0.1° each tire).
I forgot to tell the shop to measure the stock setup. They have first installed the camber bolts and than measured the setup, therefore I don't know the real values before alignment. However, after camber bolts installation, the values where: about -0.1° front toe total (toe out), about +0.1° back toe total, front camber like -0.1° each tire, rear camber -0.8° left and -1.3° right (I've noticed this strange pattern - right rear tire with more camber than left rear - on most values read on this forum). After the alignment I have the requested values: front camber is now -1.4° on each tire, front toe is perfect 0, rear toe is +0.07° on each tire.

My issue is: now the front of my car feels much lighter then before. The steering wheel is a lot lighter, and also it feels like the first inch of steering wheel movement is less sensible. I have to say that my tires are over-inflated, I inflated my AD08R (215/45 R17) at 2.7 bar at the beginning of the summer season (for street fuel economy, and also because the weight of the steering wheel increased a lot from the winter tires to the AD08R), however the pressure has not been changed with the alignment, and before the alignment the weight of the front and the steering wheel was very good.
Is it due to the change in camber, or maybe the cause is the change in front toe? What can I do, considering I've not the correct values of the toe before the alignment?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ShadowTS

Hi Mike,

I had my car aligned. I've suggested the mechanic to maximize the front camber, and set 0 toe front, and a little toe in back (0.05° - 0.1° each tire).
I forgot to tell the shop to measure the stock setup. They have first installed the camber bolts and than measured the setup, therefore I don't know the real values before alignment. However, after camber bolts installation, the values where: about -0.1° front toe total (toe out), about +0.1° back toe total, front camber like -0.1° each tire, rear camber -0.8° left and -1.3° right (I've noticed this strange pattern - right rear tire with more camber than left rear - on most values read on this forum). After the alignment I have the requested values: front camber is now -1.4° on each tire, front toe is perfect 0, rear toe is +0.07° on each tire.

My issue is: now the front of my car feels much lighter then before. The steering wheel is a lot lighter, and also it feels like the first inch of steering wheel movement is less sensible. I have to say that my tires are over-inflated, I inflated my AD08R (215/45 R17) at 2.7 bar at the beginning of the summer season (for street fuel economy, and also because the weight of the steering wheel increased a lot from the winter tires to the AD08R), however the pressure has not been changed with the alignment, and before the alignment the weight of the front and the steering wheel was very good.
Is it due to the change in camber, or maybe the cause is the change in front toe? What can I do, considering I've not the correct values of the toe before the alignment?

The steering is lighter because you're getting less wasted "scrub". This is a good thing, usually.

A good alignment shop will always set your tire pressures before doing any other work.

[RandomDeception]

How long can the stock car be continuously pushed near the limit with respect to the engine and cooling? Maybe for around half an hour at 200 kilometres per hour (over 120 miles per hour)?

Brakes and tires would not a part of the equation in this case.

[jvincent]

In what gear? RPMs are what matter for heat so if you're doing that speed in 6th it will be better than in 5th. I think that 200 is reachable in 5th.

[Pat]

I have to think the car is capable of doing 120 mph indefinitely without cooling issues. I don't know this for sure, but I'd be surprised if engineers didn't design and test the car to do this. 120 for a modern sports car isn't all that fast. I'm looking forward to what other more experienced people have to say about it, though. It is an interesting question.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by RandomDeception

How long can the stock car be continuously pushed near the limit with respect to the engine and cooling? Maybe for around half an hour at 200 kilometres per hour (over 120 miles per hour)?

Brakes and tires would not a part of the equation in this case.

Without an oil cooler? Maybe a minute before oil temps go crazy. Try watching oil temps at 3rd gear at 70mph.

With an oil cooler? Forever as far as engine and oil temps go.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Without an oil cooler? Maybe a minute before oil temps go crazy. Try watching oil temps at 3rd gear at 70mph.

With an oil cooler? Forever as far as engine and oil temps go.

So what do you think happens to the car when the "temps go crazy"? Would the average driver even know anything is different/not right? Do you think the engine would blow up or something?

[EAGLE5]

I can't imagine a problem running steady at 120. Ask a German.

[LOLS2K]

The OEM oil cooler conversion seems pretty enticing. Would you recommend skipping that option and going with an aftermarket oil cooler setup, if the car will see occasional track use?