DIY $5 reversible always-on for FRS 10 Series, Monogram, RS 1.0 or JDM headlights

[LXXXV1]

First DIY. Building up to my footwell and courtesy light DIY. Be gentle. I know there are other write ups but I didn’t see an official DIY in the directory with a good step by step so I made this. I'm not responsible for any damages done to your car during install. This is a fully reversible ~$5 DIY solution for the DRL always-on mod for those with a 10 Series, Monogram, RS 1.0, or JDM headlights.

For the record, different ohms (100, 200, 300, etc) allow for different brightness. For this example, I used a 10 watt 100 ohm resistor.

Special thanks to @Phil_FRS for letting me use his car as an example. And @Siege for his DIY, found here. (This is essentially what he did but with detailed pictures as I kept getting questions/requests about what I did)

Time required: ~10-30 minutes

Skill level 1=noob to 5=expert: 1.5

Parts/tools required:
1 x 10 watt 100 ohm resistor (~$5 at typical lighting hardware store)
2 x small sunglass flathead or screwdriver
1 x wire stripper
1 x needle nose pliers

Figure 1: Resistor and small screwdrivers

Step 1: Open hood. Find passenger side headlight. Locate and disconnect headlight harness. (Unclip from the bottom and wiggle it loose)

Figure 2: Passenger headlight connection

Figure 3: Close up of passenger headlight connection.

Step 2: Gently pry out the white plastic piece with small flathead. It comes straight out/up pretty easily.

Figure 4: Close up of 8 pin harness.

Figure 5: Close up of the flathead prying out white plastic piece.

Step 3: Use small flathead to press up on the plastic clip and push metal pin in until it comes out the other end.

Figure 6: Close up of flathead pushing clip up for the top red wire.

Step 4: Repeat for the bottom brown wire. The two wires that are removed are the red and brown wires on the right side. See circles in figure 7.

Figure 7: Circles of the two pins to remove.

Step 5: Strip ~1” of wire from both ends of resistors. Wrap both ends around the two unpluged pins. LEAVE enough exposed wire so you have room to plug it back in. See figure 8.

Figure 8: Stripped resistor wrapped around pins.

Step 6: (No picture) Use needle nose pliers and plug wires back in. May require some force. Make sure you leave enough exposed wire so you have room to plug it in. You should hear a small audible click.

Step 7: Reassemble everything, zip tie resistor to frame, and go for a drive!

Figure 9: Zip tie resistor to frame

Figure 10: Finished product

[sillierabbit]

How come I can't see the pictures?

[LXXXV1]

Originally Posted by sillierabbit

How come I can't see the pictures?

Should be fixed.

[BRZtoni]

Good DIY simple and many picture~

[Phil_FRS]

Many thanks to LXXXV1 for his excellent installation. Love the end result. Clean look. Two thumbs up for service to the community.

[aegisdrgn]

You should put a diode in series with the resistor to prevent backflow to the #5 (red, headlight) when the DRL is on and not the headlights.

[Pat.Thornton]

You mention this will work for "JDM Headlights", would this include headlight such as the JDM winjets for the frs?


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[ZOMFGAARON]

Damn A+ write up.


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[LXXXV1]

Originally Posted by aegisdrgn

You should put a diode in series with the resistor to prevent backflow to the #5 (red, headlight) when the DRL is on and not the headlights.

Good thinking. Will update soon when I do this. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Pat.Thornton

You mention this will work for "JDM Headlights", would this include headlight such as the JDM winjets for the frs?


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Sorry, I'm not sure how the winjets are wired. Assuming it has the same harness connection, it might? At least you can use this write up to easily install and test it out! At your own risk though lol. Probably safer to try it with the diode though, which I will update shortly.

[Pat.Thornton]

Ok I'll give it a shot


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[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by LXXXV1

Good thinking. Will update soon when I do this. Thanks.



Sorry, I'm not sure how the winjets are wired. Assuming it has the same harness connection, it might? At least you can use this write up to easily install and test it out! At your own risk though lol. Probably safer to try it with the diode though, which I will update shortly.

Sorry to revive a dead thread but just bought the DRL mod for the winjet "JDM" headlights:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-NztsSDBj0"]DRL mod - YouTube[/ame]





Seems he does something similar to the wiring connector involving switching the two wires at the connector as well as an inline resistor

[mid_life_crisis]

You want to solder those wires. Leaving them loose like that is begging for trouble. You can always reverse it by snipping them off with sidecutters.

[LXXXV1]

Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis

You want to solder those wires. Leaving them loose like that is begging for trouble. You can always reverse it by snipping them off with sidecutters.

Why would there be trouble if none of the wires are exposed? Everything after the rubber grommets are securely plugged into the socket. And I mean securely...you need pliers to properly reinsert the 2 prongs to hear that snap because of how little room there is. If you splice/solder it in before the rubber grommets, then it's not exactly 100% reversible. You'll forever have marks on the wires to show you modded it, i.e. good bye warranty unless you completely replace the wire you spliced to hide all signs of modification.

[mid_life_crisis]

Originally Posted by LXXXV1

Why would there be trouble if none of the wires are exposed? Everything after the rubber grommets are securely plugged into the socket. And I mean securely...you need pliers to properly reinsert the 2 prongs to hear that snap because of how little room there is. If you splice/solder it in before the rubber grommets, then it's not exactly 100% reversible. You'll forever have marks on the wires to show you modded it, i.e. good bye warranty unless you completely replace the wire you spliced to hide all signs of modification.

There is a fair amount of current in that connection. Wires should not be left in a condition where they have the potential to move at their contact point like that.