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Old 07-23-2015, 09:48 AM   #183
bee_are_zee
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My understanding is it is a few different seals and is fed by engine oil. So instead of self contained oil you are running contaminated engine oil but has a greater cooling capacity. This does not translate to runs cooler all the time. For winter time use the v2 will most likely warm up faster. I would assume when you run the v2 you will need a separate oil cooler to keep things in check. Maybe someone on here that is running one can chime in?
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Old 07-23-2015, 10:55 AM   #184
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Originally Posted by Brian@Vortech View Post
I'll let the other guys on here answer the suspension and brake questions from #1 & #2.

3. The system will bolt right up without issue, but we have not released our tuning with our complete system for the automatic transmission yet. For systems purchased through Perrin or Visconti, they can provide you with tuning for an automatic transmission FR-S/BRZ without issue.

On a side note, there are tons of manual transmission enthusiast-owned cars in SoCal, but we have not been able to source enough automatic owners in SoCal willing to lend us their cars for 4-6 weeks to confirm universal calibration for the autos. If anyone that has a 100% completely stock automatic FR-S/BRZ on here might be interested, they can pm me for further details.

4. An oil cooler should not be needed unless competition level track racing is your intended use, and even then the oil cooler is more of a given for any vehicle, regardless of modifications or boost.

5. The design of the Vortech air box included with the system is designed to function as a more OEM version of a CAI, and therefore would not allow the use of another CAI in conjuction with it.

6. We have had new car dealers that sell and install our various systems for years, right off the lot on brand new vehicles. For that reason, unless someone has a compelling argument on how an FA20 engine is unique in that fashion, I would say that no significant break in period should be required prior to Vortech System installation.
hey guys so I was hoping someone could shed some light on this situation and give me a sound reason on why these things happened. Installed the vortech on my AUTO. The install was done perfect except for one thing, in the instructions it says that the bov for MANUALS ONLY should tape into the brake booster line. And for AUTOMATICS uncap and tap into the intake manifold othe drivers side as stock it is capped for autos. I started the car up and it quickly bogged down and stalled on me I got it towed to my tuner and got it dyno tuned. After that it ran great for a week but always a little boggy with the rpms, now before you say it's the tune think about the bov and tapping into the wrong line and the intake manifold still being capped. The car then a week later bogged really bad about three times and stalled on me. Got towed to my mechanic and they changed my battery bc it was shit and then I fixed the bov and tapped into the intake manifold mechanic said all parameters while driving were within normal ranges and the car didn't bog down on him and stall at all. You could hear the bov opening and closing.
Now I'm sure vortech did this for a reason for manuals and autos and tapping into a different line but I don't know how this would affect bogging and stalling. This car is all electrical and it's always a mystery but idk I'm hoping someone could explain why they do this and or why this happened and now the car runs perfect
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:42 PM   #185
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How many people running the open flash header+ tune with their vortech? Any feedback?
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:39 PM   #186
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How many people running the open flash header+ tune with their vortech? Any feedback?
yeah i am its pretty boss... im pushing 260 whp on my automatic frs with it on 7psi ... dynojet but it was also hot and humid as a donkeys ass
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:32 PM   #187
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yeah i am its pretty boss... im pushing 260 whp on my automatic frs with it on 7psi ... dynojet but it was also hot and humid as a donkeys ass
How long have you had the setup? I'm about to order it now.
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Old 07-30-2015, 09:17 PM   #188
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Anyone running a turbo smart kompact bov? Just picked up a used one. All it does is flutter. I'm using a pink spring. I added 4 washers and it still flutters. You can barely hear it. Not quite what i was looking for. Setups?



edit.
after reading around it seems like maybe there is too much tension. I guess Ill take the washers out and loosen the cap. Hopefully I don't need a new spring.

Edit2
Fixed it today by removing all washers, then loosening the cap on the bov to the lightest setting. Works well now.

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Old 08-13-2015, 04:41 PM   #189
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Finally.


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Old 08-19-2015, 09:09 AM   #190
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Is anyone running a perrin oil cooler or any other T-stat oil cooler with the Vortech kit during cold winter(snow days)? I live in NJ & PA and it is really cold here in winter.

I know that the perrin oil cooler is T-stat, and the oil should not flow to the cooler until the temp reach 185F. However, is it actually work that well in real life?

A simple question is: Will the engine heat up as fast as a car without oil cooler?
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:17 PM   #191
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Hi guys,

even though I am not really active in this forum here, I'd like to share my Vortech build with you guys which I just picked up today from my local shop:

- Vortech V-2 H67B Supercharger with 3.125" pulley
- CP Pistons 10:1
- Pauter rods
- Remax Japan oil pump
- Greedy Type-R Blowoff (for electrical boost control)
- ACT Clutch with light flywheel (street style)
- ARP head studs
- Metall head gasket
- Ferrea +1 valves (intake and outtake)
- Supertech double valve springs
- heads have been done to fit the new valves
- 550ccm injectors with oem pump
- JDL UEL header with exchange cat
- Motiv Concepts overpipe 2,5"
- JDL Ultraquiet frontpipe 2,5"
- Milltek resonated catback
- Rev limiter set to 8.750 rpm
As for the numbers: I achived 391 HP at the crank and 384 Nm. All on ROZ 98. Sadly the power and torque drops quite a bit after 7.000 rpm. Otherwise I had surely broken the 400's mark

The 3.125" pulley spins my V-2 to approx. 56.700 rpm at the new redline generating 1.1bar boost.
All of this runs on XXR 527's 8,75"x18" with 245/35 Hankook tyres.

Upper curve: Power; Lower curve: Torque

Last edited by w0wbagger; 08-31-2015 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:03 PM   #192
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Vortech Supercharger V3 kit
Vortech Maxflow race BOV
JDL UEL catless header,
JDL overpipe
JDL ultra quite front pipe (1 HFC + 1 resonator)
ARK Grip catback


The BOV sounds great at shift, but kinda too loud for me at cruising.
So I have changed it back to the one that come with the sc kit.


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qMJnQXmyes"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qMJnQXmyes[/ame]
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:17 PM   #193
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Change Maxflow race BOV to regualr BOV that came with Vortech kit today.

Check post above for the sound of Maxflow BOV.

.







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Old 09-05-2015, 11:39 PM   #194
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Super boss bro how much are u in so far
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:58 AM   #195
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Does anyone know the diameter of the charge pipe on the driver side of the car? I'm talking about the 90 degree right before the intercooler.
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:24 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Figo View Post
Vortech Supercharger V3 kit
Vortech Maxflow race BOV
JDL UEL catless header,
JDL overpipe
JDL ultra quite front pipe (1 HFC + 1 resonator)
ARK Grip catback


The BOV sounds great at shift, but kinda too loud for me at cruising.
So I have changed it back to the one that come with the sc kit.


That sounds so sexy
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