Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[qitorr]

Originally Posted by raven1231

Header I think adds maybe 10hp when coupled with the ESC. Nothing crazy to be honest, sound great though.

Does this happen to have to do with the current OFT tunes? Header w/o a tune is not very impressive either. I know there are separate UEL and EL tunes for 93 octane but I only know of one all-encompassing ESC tune.

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by qitorr

Does this happen to have to do with the current OFT tunes? I know there are separate UEL and EL tunes for 93 octane but I only know of one all-encompassing ESC tune.

tunes utilizing header and ESC were made with the OFH

[qitorr]

Well, I found a great deal on an JDL UEL header so I went ahead and picked it up. Thanks for the input, can't wait for the theory and reading become practice and driving.

[GTO5005]

Anyone running billet power blocks with their Phantom ESC? Any sort of gains from it on top of the ESC, or does it suffer from diminishing returns?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by GTO5005

Anyone running billet power blocks with their Phantom ESC? Any sort of gains from it on top of the ESC, or does it suffer from diminishing returns?

Diminishing returns.


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[l0aded]

Hey guys, just thought we should update the spreadsheet in the front page. I included OFT+PROcede in the tune section, would be interesting to know how many of us are on what now.

[yamsta]

Hey guys new ESC v2 owner here. I got my kit shipped to me a while back but I just did not have the chance to install it yet with the deep freeze we got here in the northeast area over the winter in addition to having two kids below the age of 3! Anyways, I finally got around to installing and had a quick question: what OFH tune are people running with catless UEL headers? Is it this (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump)? Keep in mind that I have the v2 kit with the new batteries, etc.

Thanks,
--yamsta

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by yamsta

Hey guys new ESC v2 owner here. I got my kit shipped to me a while back but I just did not have the chance to install it yet with the deep freeze we got here in the northeast area over the winter in addition to having two kids below the age of 3! Anyways, I finally got around to installing and had a quick question: what OFH tune are people running with catless UEL headers? Is it this (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump)? Keep in mind that I have the v2 kit with the new batteries, etc.

Thanks,
--yamsta

Get whatever is the latest tune shiv has... Which I think is that one.


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[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by yamsta

Hey guys new ESC v2 owner here. I got my kit shipped to me a while back but I just did not have the chance to install it yet with the deep freeze we got here in the northeast area over the winter in addition to having two kids below the age of 3! Anyways, I finally got around to installing and had a quick question: what OFH tune are people running with catless UEL headers? Is it this (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump)? Keep in mind that I have the v2 kit with the new batteries, etc.

Thanks,
--yamsta

Yes that one if you have the 1.5x dump pack upgrade or are running the two big crank battery setup.

[yamsta]

Ok I got the v2 kit (no aux charger) installed and tune (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump) flashed. Also added myself to the spreadsheet. Overall I thought the install was pretty straight forward. The v2 video posted by Steve was a great supplement. Thanks @Sojhinn. I did have some thoughts/notes about the whole process for future/current owners:

Packaging

1. Top notch packaging. Everything is packaged well even in a such a small box!
2. Everything feels solid--wires, cables, clamps, etc; heck even the audio-jack connectors are gold plated.
3. Everything you need (other than batteries) is included in the kit, including zip ties.

Install/Routing

1. The thick gauge power wires going from the 24v batteries to the controller can be routed next to the fender along with the controller power wire instead of next to the engine/ECU:
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. The 6-pin connector can be routed closer to the battery and then UNDER the main fuse panel/box and back up to the controller:
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. The power connector for the controller to the starter battery can be connected to the existing “block” connector on the + side and grounded (-) with the existing ground connector that’s next to the strut tower:
   
   
4. For the CCV hose I reused both hose connectors as such:
   

Inside

1. For routing the wires inside the car I find it’s easier to pop off the shifter surround to help feed wires from right side seat to the left side. And then once in the left side you can keep feeding the throttle wire behind the carpet all the way up to the throttle switch. Sorry no pics here.
2. I found that having the voltage meter placed next to the trunk switch to be an awkward location to glance at when driving. I found the space next to the water temperature gauge in the dash to be a better spot. However the double sided tape that comes with the kit is not great at sticking to that dash material. I would suggest getting some type of 3M outdoor mounting tape.

Driving Impressions and other notes

1. The power is definitely noticeable, especially after the accelerator pedal slop corrects itself after the flash. I would say the delivery is a lot like how a turbo kicks in that it is somewhat abrupt.
2. For some reason I feel like the starter battery is slightly shorter than the dump batteries. The reason I say this is that even after tightening the battery tie downs pretty well I can still slide the starter battery back and forth a little bit. Maybe sliding a little bit of cardboard or something between the battery and hold down block might help.
3. Another thing I noticed is that when you arm the system you'll hear the 3 beeps (2 beeps quickly followed by 1 more beep later) as mentioned in the install video. Additionally you'll hear another 5 beeps. I thought something was wrong with my unit but apparently this is normal and just signifies the system waiting for boost input according to Rob. After that it waits quietly .

Questions

1. Might sound like a dumb question, but is all the boost created also used? What happens to the unused boost? Like in a traditional turbo type system there's a wastegate and blow off valves for the extra boost not used. What happens w/ the ESC?
2. Along the lines of the first question, what happens when you press the accelerator with the ESC on but the car off? The turbine will spin creating boost, but where does all of it go? Is this harmful for the engine?
3. I would like to take some logs of the system while running with the OFT to check the health of the system. What parameters should I log in the OFT and how should I drive?
4. Lastly, what does the AUX charger allow for? Is it really needed?

Thanks ,
--yamsta

[Target70]

Originally Posted by yamsta

Inside

1. For routing the wires inside the car I find it’s easier to pop off the shifter surround to help feed wires from right side seat to the left side. And then once in the left side you can keep feeding the throttle wire behind the carpet all the way up to the throttle switch. Sorry no pics here.
2. I found that having the voltage meter placed next to the trunk switch to be an awkward location to glance at when driving. I found the space next to the water temperature gauge in the dash to be a better spot. However the double sided tape that comes with the kit is not great at sticking to that dash material. I would suggest getting some type of 3M outdoor mounting tape.

Questions

1. Might sound like a dumb question, but is all the boost created also used? What happens to the unused boost? Like in a traditional turbo type system there's a wastegate and blow off valves for the extra boost not used. What happens w/ the ESC?
2. Along the lines of the first question, what happens when you press the accelerator with the ESC on but the car off? The turbine will spin creating boost, but where does all of it go? Is this harmful for the engine?
3. I would like to take some logs of the system while running with the OFT to check the health of the system. What parameters should I log in the OFT and how should I drive?
4. Lastly, what does the AUX charger allow for? Is it really needed?

I agree about the display placement. I put mine here with some 3M rubber type of double sided tape and a bent piece of aluminum and it has worked out great:



Answers:
1. The compressor motor has a brake which slows it down very quickly, so when you let off, you almost instantly stop producing boost. If you got from WOT to 0 throttle instantly you can hear a little surge. I tend to ease off from WOT and stop the boost before I pull completely off the throttle. It all happens in less than 1/2 a second so I am pretty sure it's safe, I just like to be cautious.. I don't know how the Proceed reacts though.

2. The boost doesn't go anywhere, it builds against the throttle plate. It shouldn't be dangerous to the engine, but you might overwork or damage the ESC from surge lock or something. no reason to do it except to test the unit, so a second or 2 shouldn't hurt.

3. I am not an expert on this, but I usually log: ADV Multiplier, Knock Correction, LT fuel trim, ST fuel trim, AFR, FLKC, Engine Load, Boost, Time, Throttle, Engine Speed, and Intake Air Temp. To drive, try a lower gear, (I always use 3rd ), get going up to 2k rpm, then nail it and hold to redline. To check the ESC function, just look at boost. You should have about 4.8 PSI at about 3k rpm, and about 2 PSI at redline. If so then your phantom is all good. The easiest way to know if your engine is running well, is to check the ADV Multiplier, If you run it through the revs and it never drops from 1.0 you are gold. Here is one of my logs for reverence: http://datazap.me/u/target70/esc-dum...&data=1-7-9-11

4. The Aux chargers main purpose is to speed up charging the dump pack batteries. I believe it cuts the recharge time in half. It's secondary benefit is that it splits the effort between the motor controller and itself which reduces the chances of overheating the system, and I believe by sharing the work it also can give a slightly higher current output from the batts to the compressor for a little extra oomph. I have a custom battery setup so I hold about 25% more charge than the old 1.5 battery setup, and I only driven on the street, but I have never run out of charge. Even on trips on 2 lane highways I have passed multiple people back to back, and a 0 to over 120mph full WOT test I have always had juice to spare.

[fenton]

Hey @yamsta, glad to see you finally got it installed!

To your question about surge....with the amount of boost we are running the compressor surge is not detrimental. Even with the throttle plate completely closed we are only making 5 PSI ~ so it will not hurt the compressor in a surge scenario. Now if you were making 10 to 15 PSI, yes you have to blow that extra off if the throttle plate closes.

Glad to here you are liking it! It will get even stronger of the next couple weeks as those batteries condition and the tune gets itself happy.

Enjoy!

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by yamsta

Ok I got the v2 kit (no aux charger) installed and tune (v2.01 OTS for ESC 1.5 dump) flashed. Also added myself to the spreadsheet. Overall I thought the install was pretty straight forward. The v2 video posted by Steve was a great supplement. Thanks @Sojhinn. I did have some thoughts/notes about the whole process for future/current owners:



Packaging

1. Top notch packaging. Everything is packaged well even in a such a small box!
   
2. Everything feels solid--wires, cables, clamps, etc; heck even the audio-jack connectors are gold plated.
   
3. Everything you need (other than batteries) is included in the kit, including zip ties.
   

Install/Routing

1. The thick gauge power wires going from the 24v batteries to the controller can be routed next to the fender along with the controller power wire instead of next to the engine/ECU:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. The 6-pin connector can be routed closer to the battery and then UNDER the main fuse panel/box and back up to the controller:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. The power connector for the controller to the starter battery can be connected to the existing “block” connector on the + side and grounded (-) with the existing ground connector that’s next to the strut tower:
   
   
   
   
   
4. For the CCV hose I reused both hose connectors as such:
   
   
   

Inside

1. For routing the wires inside the car I find it’s easier to pop off the shifter surround to help feed wires from right side seat to the left side. And then once in the left side you can keep feeding the throttle wire behind the carpet all the way up to the throttle switch. Sorry no pics here.
   
2. I found that having the voltage meter placed next to the trunk switch to be an awkward location to glance at when driving. I found the space next to the water temperature gauge in the dash to be a better spot. However the double sided tape that comes with the kit is not great at sticking to that dash material. I would suggest getting some type of 3M outdoor mounting tape.
   

Driving Impressions and other notes

1. The power is definitely noticeable, especially after the accelerator pedal slop corrects itself after the flash. I would say the delivery is a lot like how a turbo kicks in that it is somewhat abrupt.
   
2. For some reason I feel like the starter battery is slightly shorter than the dump batteries. The reason I say this is that even after tightening the battery tie downs pretty well I can still slide the starter battery back and forth a little bit. Maybe sliding a little bit of cardboard or something between the battery and hold down block might help.
   

Questions

1. Might sound like a dumb question, but is all the boost created also used? What happens to the unused boost? Like in a traditional turbo type system there's a wastegate and blow off valves for the extra boost not used. What happens w/ the ESC?
   
2. Along the lines of the first question, what happens when you press the accelerator with the ESC on but the car off? The turbine will spin creating boost, but where does all of it go? Is this harmful for the engine?
   
3. I would like to take some logs of the system while running with the OFT to check the health of the system. What parameters should I log in the OFT and how should I drive?
   
4. Lastly, what does the AUX charger allow for? Is it really needed?
   

Thanks ,

--yamsta

Hey yamsta! Thanks for the kind words. Yeah I'm not a fan of that placement either for the voltage meter. I have mine in almost the same location as @Target70.

Also on the routing of wires:

I followed robs instructions to better mimic what he has on his paper instructions. But if you find something that works better...more power to you bro!

I used to route my dump pack cables the same way but my new cables don't reach as well as they used to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[xsnapshot]

Random question:

Does the stock fuel system support enough flow to provide fueling for the ESC on E85 with no change to the port injectors or pump(s)?