CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[fstlane]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Firestone on N. Durango in the top left corner of the city. Ask for Alex. He's apparently the guy that does the alignments for the exotic racing experience at LVMS, and he's very comfortable aligning to given specifications instead of OEM spec. Since I got the lifetime alignment package, he said come in before an event, he'll tweak it for that event, then come in afterwards and he'll reset it back to daily driver spec.

Thanks for the recommendation gramicci101! I'm very pleased with the alignment results from these guys.

[1Cor10:23]

@Racecomp Engineering @CSG Mike might have made a boo-boo here so I wanted to ask the experts...any issue I should be worried about after winding my adjusters on my coilovers (ohlins R/T) full soft past the 20 clicks (while off the car)? This is my first set of coils and I was just checking out the adjuster, did not know it could actually go past the 20 clicks recommended by Ohlins until I realized that it was way more than 20...at no point did I try to "force" it, it just kept clicking. Thanks!

edit: so I did some testing today and it seems everything is okay...compressed them by hand at varying adjustments and the movement corresponded well to changes. Call ohlins - all good, bounds of the clicks are the thread ends - not taking the needle out of seat or jamming it into the seat.

[bimmer635csi]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

@Racecomp Engineering @CSG Mike might have made a boo-boo here so I wanted to ask the experts...any issue I should be worried about after winding my adjusters on my coilovers (ohlins R/T) full soft past the 20 clicks (while off the car)? This is my first set of coils and I was just checking out the adjuster, did not know it could actually go past the 20 clicks recommended by Ohlins until I realized that it was way more than 20...at no point did I try to "force" it, it just kept clicking. Thanks!

I did this (but going full tight) on a set of Ohlins for my GTI. Thankfully Ohlins has a 2 year warranty and all it cost me was the shipping to North Carolina to get repaired.

Maybe call the Ohlins facility and talk to them about what might have happened. They were unable to diagnose mine over the phone, so they asked me to send them in and sure enough, they had to rebuild them.

[1Cor10:23]

@bimmer635csi before sending in did it have symptoms of any problems?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

@Racecomp Engineering @CSG Mike might have made a boo-boo here so I wanted to ask the experts...any issue I should be worried about after winding my adjusters on my coilovers (ohlins R/T) full soft past the 20 clicks (while off the car)? This is my first set of coils and I was just checking out the adjuster, did not know it could actually go past the 20 clicks recommended by Ohlins until I realized that it was way more than 20...at no point did I try to "force" it, it just kept clicking. Thanks!

edit: so I did some testing today and it seems everything is okay...compressed them by hand at varying adjustments and the movement corresponded well to changes. Will give Ohlins a call after the break.

The extra clicks "do nothing"; they're overhead for anything you may have done to the dampers later. As long as you weren't actually using them outside of the range, you should be fine.

[rlpaul]

@CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

First off, still I'm still in research mode, so hopefully my question makes sense.

I know a common complaint is the lack of bump travel in the rear, and for lowered setups, the Raseseng shock tops remedy this. Is there a solution using the shock tops for stock/near stock ride height, therefore adding overall travel in the rear?

If I'm not mistaken, some of the Teins, for example, appear to utilize a similar approach, but as of yet been unable to find confirmation of this.

[bimmer635csi]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

@bimmer635csi before sending in did it have symptoms of any problems?

No symptom other than when I was trying to soften the dampers for winter, they wouldn't adjust (the clicks were no longer clicking).

[1Cor10:23]

Originally Posted by bimmer635csi

No symptom other than when I was trying to soften the dampers for winter, they wouldn't adjust (the clicks were no longer clicking).

Did you experience this on all the dampers?

[YouShallKnow]

I recently installed Blistein B6's with Swift Sport FR-S Springs. And I have Michelin PSS on the OEM wheels.

My question is what sway bars would you recommend for my setup, if any?

I'm also getting camber bolts and an alignment soon, what specs do you recommend?

I drive about 40 miles each way to work, and this is my daily but I drive it hard as much as possible and go to the occasional track day.

Thanks for any help you can give me, the suspension still mystifies me!

[bimmer635csi]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

Did you experience this on all the dampers?

No, it was only the rears, but only because I had the rears full-stiff (plus a little which is probably what made them break). After repair, I learned not to make that last click with a lot of force and there was no issue afterwards.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by rlpaul

@CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

First off, still I'm still in research mode, so hopefully my question makes sense.

I know a common complaint is the lack of bump travel in the rear, and for lowered setups, the Raseseng shock tops remedy this. Is there a solution using the shock tops for stock/near stock ride height, therefore adding overall travel in the rear?

If I'm not mistaken, some of the Teins, for example, appear to utilize a similar approach, but as of yet been unable to find confirmation of this.

The problem is most coilovers will be at max height around 10mm lower than stock...so if you add a lowering top mount or lowering rear LCAs to the equation than you're definitely going to be lower than stock.

A single ride height adjustable coilover (such as KW, RCE, JRZ, AST, the european stuff) will likely have more bump travel than stock at their taller ride heights, or at least use it more effectively due to the firmer rates the coilovers run.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by YouShallKnow

I recently installed Blistein B6's with Swift Sport FR-S Springs. And I have Michelin PSS on the OEM wheels.

My question is what sway bars would you recommend for my setup, if any?

I'm also getting camber bolts and an alignment soon, what specs do you recommend?

I drive about 40 miles each way to work, and this is my daily but I drive it hard as much as possible and go to the occasional track day.

Thanks for any help you can give me, the suspension still mystifies me!

Drive it with the new shocks and springs first and see what you think after the alignment.

0 toe up front, 1/16th toe in for the rear. Max out your front camber (depends on the bolts you have, but hopefully you'll get around -1.75 degrees).

- Andy

[solidONE]

Did anybody get details and specs on the new Sachs dampers and spring rates on the MY15's?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Did anybody get details and specs on the new Sachs dampers and spring rates on the MY15's?

I saw them at PRI, but unfortunately I couldn't find anyone to talk about them.

- Andy