08-07-2014, 09:34 AM | #1723 |
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Anything will do. It's just to prevent gouging the asphalt.
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08-07-2014, 09:42 AM | #1724 | |
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Slotted rotors help reduce some initial pad fade issues and give a slight increase to bite. Drilled rotors do also but they have a much higher tendency towards cracking and shouldn't be used on a track car. Frankly slotted rotors are probably not the best investment and drilled would be bad (other can chime in). You can't go wrong with more seat time!
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The Following User Says Thank You to ddeflyer For This Useful Post: | jblmr2 (08-08-2014) |
08-07-2014, 11:25 AM | #1725 | |
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08-07-2014, 12:56 PM | #1726 | |
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Consider getting proper equipment to get the proper alignment settings. @ddeflyer purchased Raceseng CasCams and SPL RLCA from us to dial in the proper camber. Both are excellent items even with coilover kits in the future. The Raceseng is modular in that sense you just need to replace the spring perch and a nut (I believe). |
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG David For This Useful Post: | uncivilised (08-11-2014) |
08-07-2014, 02:27 PM | #1727 |
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Will be attending my 3rd track day in the FR-S late this August and I'm wondering if its time to replace my front/rear rotors. Car has about 44k on it and I do have another set of OEM rotors to replace the olds with. I know that 1mm of wear is when it's time to change but when bringing to the track should I be looking out for other types of wear on the rotor?
Going to be using HC+800 front pads and stop tech street pads for the rear.
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08-07-2014, 02:51 PM | #1728 | |
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We prefer stiffer in the rear |
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08-07-2014, 02:52 PM | #1729 |
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The first day is the fastest, and they slowly deteriorate. The rate of deterioration depends completely on you and how you drive them. It's easy to cook RS3s because they tolerate heat well, but if you back off as soon as they start to overheat, they won't drop much at all.
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | uncivilised (08-11-2014) |
08-07-2014, 02:53 PM | #1730 | |
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It'll reduce your tire wear significantly on the outer edges, give you better cornering grip, and you won't outgrow the parts. Some long term items would be coilovers, BBK, datalogger, and LSD. You won't outgrow any of these items, except perhaps the coilovers (depends on the option you choose). Are you driving with Traction/Stability off? Pedal Dance? If not, I recommend you do so. |
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08-07-2014, 02:55 PM | #1731 | |
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08-08-2014, 09:07 AM | #1732 | |
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Thanks Mike, and yes I am driving without traction control but I haven't tried with pedal dance yet. I've been taking a conservative approach to backing off the aids. Perhaps it's time to get rid of the last one. |
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08-08-2014, 03:29 PM | #1733 |
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The last one actually makes the car more predictable
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08-08-2014, 04:06 PM | #1734 |
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How much stiffer Mike? I figured since I was going FI it adds some weight (even it's a slight gain since I also got rid of some junk) in the front I might benefit from having equal rated springs, as opposed to slightly stiffer in the rear. My logic might be wrong though
I have been using 9k/9k I wonder if I should adjust my damper settings so it's slightly softer in the front.. I I have been playing with the damper settings at different tracks and noticed that stiffer damper settings don't seem to be working at some places.. I have 235/40/17 Nitto NT01s and dropped about 1" all around .. I opted for the slightly higher rates since I have hard R compounds .
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08-08-2014, 05:03 PM | #1735 | |
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08-08-2014, 05:20 PM | #1736 | |
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I don't really know about the distribution but it might be slightly front heavy due to KW kit. I haven't had it corner weighted yet. Do you mean the corner weighted alignment?
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