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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 06-25-2014, 12:41 PM   #43
tahdizzle
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Originally Posted by s2d4 View Post
why not?

Personally, when I'm crusing on the highway I want my RPMs to stay low.

For fuel economy and just comfort.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:03 PM   #44
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id be all over the esc other than i dont like that it has limited use before the battery has to recharge.
These limits are very unlikely to be reached on the street since it's impossible to be on boost for more than 30 seconds straight. And recharge times are pretty quick. I would see this only being a limitation on a roadcourse.

+1 for OFT+Phantom ESC. Nothing else for that price is going to come close.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:32 PM   #45
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Depends on your goals, but guessing you're looking for 'factory plus' improvements this is what I did (and I'm cheap):

1) OFT $499+shipping new, got mine for $350 slightly used - won't give you huge actual gains, but will make the car much more responsive and fun to drive. Ecutek will do the same, somewhat higher investment though.

2) Lowering springs on extra stock struts $300 - a set of Eibach Sportline springs installed on stock struts, some people don't like springs this low but I love them. Bought them on stock struts so easy to bolt (no labor for spring swap on struts) on and easy to return to stock if I want to.

3) Cheap rims - used set of XXR 530's, 18"x8.75, for $250. Yeah they're not baller rims but they do the job, not terribly light but not terribly heavy. These combined with lowering springs *transform* the look of the car.

4) Camber bolts, front and rear plus alignment $200ish - SPC camber bolts up front, H&R camber bolts installed in rear innermost mount point on stock LCA's. Aligned, dialed in with -1.6 camber front, -2.1 camber rear, -1/32 toe in front, 0 toe in rear.

5) Cheap (but good!) tires - very slightly used set of Goodyear Asymmetric 2's, 235/40R18's, $180. Great all around summer performance tires, especially in rain, often can find these when the Focus ST guys dump theirs (OEM) for Rivals, Dunlop ZII's and the like. These plus springs plus camber bolts plus alignment *transform* the handling of the car. Yeah the sportline springs aren't ideal for track but I track the car only a couple times a year, my priorities in this case are looks over performance, and that said handling is amazing.

6) Exhaust - Greddy SP Elite, used $350, perfect for what I want. Not obnoxious at all, makes the car sound exotic, a touch porsche like but really a sound of it's own.

7) Exhaust diffuser - $60, reproduction of factory style exhaust diffuser, sold by someone here on the forums. Fills out the area below the exhaust nicely.

7) Shift Knob - ok sounds silly, but bought a used moddiction Anvil stainless steel knob for about $40. Love the way it looks and feels.

Total so far, $1730, prob will invest in a good reproduction 5axis duck spoiler soon, that'll bring it up to around $1900 if I have a shop paint it. Overall it's a much nicer looking and much more fun to drive street car now, but still has a fairly conservative 'factory plus' look.
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:47 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by tahdizzle View Post
In my opinion, changing the final drive gear should be used on a track/weekend car and not a daily driver.
Besides the lower top speed, what negative connotations are there for raising it? It's a Toyota unit too so it's not exactly bad quality.
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Old 06-25-2014, 03:00 PM   #47
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A higher final drive will mean higher RPM at a given speed. At 80 mph, mine is already high enough as it is.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:02 PM   #48
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what is the recharge time? i guess i assumed it was pretty long.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:20 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Thatdudesteveo View Post
So I'm going to dip into my savings and pull out 2000 for mods. I have a 2014 firestorm frs all stock except for invidia n1 catback exhaust. I'm thinking injen intake and ecuteck stage 2 tune from fa20club to start. Any other suggestions?
Wheels and tires are the only correct answer. Every BRZ/FR-S sells with the same exact wheels and tires. Make yours different.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:38 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23 View Post
Also, skip the intake and just get a drop-in filter for now, one of the best bang for buck mods.
Also skip the drop in filter because it's no bang, all buck. But whatever you do, DO NOT buy an Injen intake, please! I die a little every time someone does that.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:41 PM   #51
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Bang for buck on pure power.... ESC, OFT....unleash some torques ...especially if you have e85 available because the updated tune is free and is good for 225whp/205wtq


I have since added a OFH and trackpipe but they are mainly for the sound.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWbuV0uewLM"]FRS BRZ OpenFlash header(OFH) - Nameless trackpipe - Phantom SC - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 06-25-2014, 06:04 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by qoncept View Post
Also skip the drop in filter because it's no bang, all buck. But whatever you do, DO NOT buy an Injen intake, please! I die a little every time someone does that.

On the intake side of things, a k&n drop in filter IS the best bang for the buck. Also, the injen and Takeda intakes are some of the best intakes out there.


For me, there is no glide in pulse and glide :p
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:28 PM   #53
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Tires and a tune.
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:46 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by qoncept View Post
Also skip the drop in filter because it's no bang, all buck. But whatever you do, DO NOT buy an Injen intake, please! I die a little every time someone does that.
I made an extra 10whp/8wtq with a K&N filter at the top end.
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Old 06-25-2014, 09:03 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Thatdudesteveo View Post
So I'm going to dip into my savings and pull out 2000 for mods. I have a 2014 firestorm frs all stock except for invidia n1 catback exhaust. I'm thinking injen intake and ecuteck stage 2 tune from fa20club to start. Any other suggestions?
Stay the fuck away from FA20 club bro:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...16#post1466016
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:18 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tahdizzle View Post
Personally, when I'm crusing on the highway I want my RPMs to stay low.

For fuel economy and just comfort.
Ahh, personal preference that adding 300rpm is going to be pain.
In winter, idle goes up by about 300rpm too.

I think it actually comes down to the type of driving you do, dd isn't the determining factor.
If your driving is pretty much all long straight highways, I can see adding 300rpm would be annoying but then again it isn't the best place for the 86 anyways.
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