Installing Vortech SC, ran into a couple of issues

[DJCarbine]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

Here's a photo of what was included. I opened it up and there is a red ring installed inside. Where do the giant washers go though? It came in a white box with no labels. There are no markings on the actual unit either

Washers are usually used to shim the springs if needed, but this kit isnt very picky about bypass valves. Grab a cheap handheld vacuum pump at the autoparts store (a valuable tool in itself) and note the vacuum at which the valve starts to open. Verify with vortech, but it should start to open at around 4-5 inches of vacuum.

Or you could slap it on as-is and it would more than likely work just fine.... system is not very picky about bypass valves as in our application they are open at anything other than almost WOT.

If in doubt, call vortech

[charged86]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

Thanks for the input! I double checked the belt and it is completely seated on the rest of the pulleys. I'm using a short open-ended wrench to move the tensioner since my 1/2" drive sockets won't fit anymore after the blower is put in place.

For the intercooler self tapping screws, I used a ratchet and screwdriver-handle socket head. Still can't get the three screws in.

I'll be having the ECU flashed by a local tuner once installation is complete. Will it be okay to run the car with the stock MAP sensor after it is tuned?

i had issues with the screws as well had to use large self taping screw bolts electricians use. lowes motorsports. and car will probably not run without tuning. as mine barely ran.

[Rick@Vortech]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

Here's a photo of what was included. I opened it up and there is a red ring installed inside. Where do the giant washers go though? It came in a white box with no labels. There are no markings on the actual unit either

The red spring in the valve is the correct spring.

[HRTROB]

Thanks for the help guys! I finally finished the installation last night. Whew! My tuner came over and did some street tuning. So far so good the car needs upgraded injectors and pump though. Duty cycle was maxxing out above 6,900 rpm so the rev limit is temporarily set at 6,800 rpm which is very easy to hit in first gear!

Just a couple more questions

1. Where did you guys run the blower oil drain line?

2. For those with oil coolers, how did you run the lines to the sandwich plate? The airbox bracket is making one of my lines squished.

[Foobar]

Originally Posted by HRTROB

Thanks for the help guys! I finally finished the installation last night. Whew! My tuner came over and did some street tuning. So far so good the car needs upgraded injectors and pump though. Duty cycle was maxxing out above 6,900 rpm so the rev limit is temporarily set at 6,800 rpm which is very easy to hit in first gear!

Curious - what fuel are you using that you've already maxed the injectors? You on corn?

I left my drain hose zip tied down the middle of the radiator shroud.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[HRTROB]

Originally Posted by Foobar

Curious - what fuel are you using that you've already maxed the injectors? You on corn?

I left my drain hose zip tied down the middle of the radiator shroud.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I'm using 100 RON fuel (92-93 in the US). A buddy of mine has a Vortech as well, same stock pulley and MT, and his injectors were maxxed out too. It was doing 260whp on a dynojet. It's really weird since our other buddy with an AT and Vortech on stock pulley is doing fine with the stock injectors. His car put down 274whp with a 4.566 FD on the same dynojet. All of pur cars were tuned by the same guy.

I had a bit of trouble today. Started the car and went for a drive. Engine was cold so I was taking it slow. 8 minutes into the drive, I was at a stop light when I noticed smoke coming out of the hood. I pulled to the side and saw oil all over the place. It was leaking from the damn Perrin oil cooler fitting, the passenger side one on the sandwich plate. Is this the return line? It was leaking into my Borla header causing the smoke. I tightened it up a bit and it stopped leaking. I added about 2 liters of oil which brought it back to the full mark at the dip stick. Do you think it did any harm on the engine? I'm hoping that it's okay since I did not rev it past 3,000 rpm. Now I have to spend the day tomorrow cleaning up the mess it made

[Tye300]

Great to hear rob! When you going to the Dyno? You have the injectors and pump already right? Need to get a ride in your car now!

[DJCarbine]

Originally Posted by normancw

I'm interested in the tuner kit as well. Is the map sensor the only difference between the FR-S/BRZ complete and tuner kits (besides a tune of course)?

On the Vortech web page describing the FR-S/BRZ Supercharger Systems
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30190

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...n.php?pvk=4707


Would the Omni 3 Bar Map Sensor be a good one to get? Which one does the complete kit come with?
http://ft86speedfactory.com/omni-3-b...nsor-1330.html

My supercharger came with an Omni 3 Bar map sensor because I ordered it as a package through a vendor, its fairly standard when it comes to FI

[Brian@Vortech]

Originally Posted by normancw

I'm interested in the tuner kit as well. Is the map sensor the only difference between the FR-S/BRZ complete and tuner kits (besides a tune of course)?

On the Vortech web page describing the FR-S/BRZ Supercharger Systems
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30190

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...n.php?pvk=4707


Would the Omni 3 Bar Map Sensor be a good one to get? Which one does the complete kit come with?
http://ft86speedfactory.com/omni-3-b...nsor-1330.html

The Tuner Kit does not include the Ecutek cable, license, tune, and MAP sensor.

The complete system direct from Vortech includes a 2.5 BAR MAP sensor, but other vendors/tuners have used 3 BAR MAP sensors with our system with just as much success. The car just needs to be tuned for the sensor that is being used.

[sissupr]

Just want to add to this thread that when installing the belt it was WAY easier to put the belt over the smooth idler beneath the ac pulley LAST. I tried over the alternator pulley last (as decribed in the Vortech manual) and that was difficult because of the ribbed edge.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by sissupr

Just want to add to this thread that when installing the belt it was WAY easier to put the belt over the smooth idler beneath the ac pulley LAST. I tried over the alternator pulley last (as decribed in the Vortech manual) and that was difficult because of the ribbed edge.

The manual sucks, still does. I'd figure after over a year they would have added the torque values etc and some of these common tips most every installer has mentioned... NOPE.