09-29-2013, 07:32 PM | #155 |
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I'm running the ones the Stance setup comes with. I believe 6kg front and rear.
Once the motor is reworked and I'm making the power I want, I'll probably go to 9kg up front and 5kg in the rear.
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09-30-2013, 11:51 AM | #156 |
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Noob question don't hate,
What's the best way to get the ass out? Everybody tells me to "kick" the clutch, but I can't find the right spot, I either just spin out uncontrollably or I don't hit it enough and I don't break traction (2nd). In first it seems easy to control when you just hit it on a tight corner, keep sideways a couple seconds then comes right back once I'm outta juice. This was me playing around in wet conditions, complete stock car, got it a couple weeks ago. Thanks in advance! |
09-30-2013, 12:20 PM | #157 |
Gettin SIKKY sideways
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No "right" spot. It just takes practice at controlling the throttle and countersteer. I spun out a bunch first too.
You're not going to get very far in first, much less in this car :P Not exactly the powerband for long drawn out drifts. |
09-30-2013, 04:29 PM | #158 | |
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When you are starting to get a feel for that, and the limitations it brings, start to learn to extend the handbrake slide by disengaging the handbrake and dumping the clutch at the same time. Theory being, you need to learn car control and weight transfer. Start out just with handbrake, so all you have to worry and is basically the steering. Once you have aced that, move onto extending the slide. Now you'll have more flexibility to tell the car what to do, but more things to worry about. |
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09-30-2013, 06:05 PM | #159 | |
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I know how to e brake slide, mastered that in my civic driving northern Canadian winters lol, I'm trying to learn to kick it out using the clutch without spinning out everytime.
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09-30-2013, 07:29 PM | #160 | |
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If you're confident using hand brake, then use it to initiate and then clutch kick while its already sliding. I would also say that the problem I think you're having is you are going too fast. If you dont want to use the handbrake at all, then kick it in the wet, second gear, slight turn in, at about 50km/h. Work your way speed up from there. |
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09-30-2013, 07:33 PM | #161 |
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Might also be turning in too hard or counter steering too late. Hard to be able to tell exactly without seeing footage of what you're doing.
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10-01-2013, 04:55 AM | #162 |
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Hey guys,
So i've found myself in a bit of a pickle over the last few weeks and have been pulling my hair out trying to come up with the best solution. I want to put it put to you guys to try and get some advice as to what I should do. So I ordered a PMU BBK about four months ago and at the time I was running 18" Work Kiwamis. I then ended up finding a set of Regamasters in 5x100 in perfect specs for drifting (17/8 +35). I ended up selling the Kiwami's because they were too wide/heavy to slide, especially on stock power. Anyway the brakes arrived and they unfortunately don't fit because the calliper JUST scrapes the recess in the barrel. After looking into it I have two options but would like to know what everyone else would do in my situation. 1. Keep 17" Regasmasters (17/8 +35) and run a 30 or 35mm hub centric spacer in the front which would allow the calliper to clear. Personally I would feel better about running 30mm which would give me about 4 or 5mm clearance. 35mm would obviously give me more clearance but I can't find any 35mm spacers made by decent companies like H&R, Project Kics or Eibach. In this setup I would be running 30mm spacer in front and 25mm on rear to try and balance the car out. OR option 2. Buy a set of 18" Regamasters off a mate that are 5x114.3 (18/8.5 +35) and run them with Project Kics 15mm conversion spacers. They would be slightly heavier but hopefully not by much that's going to make a big difference. Yes, I've looked at just buying a set of wheels in the right specs and PCD but if I'm honest, they all look poo when so narrow. Plus my heart is set on Regas. Would love to know what you all think and what I should do. I want to take the option that is NOT going to impact on how the car drifts or performs in any way. Thanks in advance!
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10-01-2013, 01:16 PM | #163 |
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If your just looking to out right drift, I would do the smallest (best looking) wheel and tire you can to get the car to drift, then put like 70 PSI in the tires lol
My advice for people having trouble drifting is, everything has to work together. If your clutch kicking, its so sudden that you have to make sure your steering wheel inputs is at the same exact time as the clutch kick or you'll just end up spinning. |
10-01-2013, 02:03 PM | #164 | |
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Approach the corner (For this, picture a right hand corner.) turn slightly to the left (opposite the apex) then hard to the right, as the car unsettles and begins to transfer, kick the clutch. Quickly countersteer while controlling the cars angle with the throttle. It takes a few times to get it down. The car will drift as long as you want it to, sometimes a second clutch kick mid drift is necessary. It wont look pretty, but a Stock FRS is very driftable out of the box [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ch3hMwd8AeE"]2013 Scion FR-S Drifting by Patrick Cyr - YouTube[/ame] |
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10-01-2013, 03:10 PM | #165 | |
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BTW am i the only one with a rear knuckle bushing with a loose?? Where the control arm connect. I have quite a play there. going under warranty work tomorow! |
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10-01-2013, 03:35 PM | #166 |
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215s are plenty small. No need to go smaller. 70psi in the tires? Uhm. No.
The stock 215s with no more than 40psi works. More than easy enough to slide with. I run 28psi cold in the rear with -1 camber and I can spin 3rd gear all day. Stock motor. @JordanWho Here's my answer/opinion: You can buy 30mm and a 3mm or 5mm slip on as well if you desire. Adding spacers up front will increase scrub which is actually good for drifting. Doing it also moves the inner half of the wheel away from the chassis itself which means you gain more space for steering angle-should you ever add more. Keep in mind that adding spacers or front caster will push you further towards the front bumper while turning lock to lock and can cause you to hit the bumper if you don't keep an eye on your changes. That being said, I would add the minimum amount needed to safely clear the calipers and stay with 17s. 17s are just plain better for drifting. Especially up front. Fact.
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10-02-2013, 06:54 PM | #167 |
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I think 17's with 215 really suit this car at least at a stockish power level. I had custom spacers made from www.motorsport-tech.com, high quality made in the USA stuff, and very easy to deal with. They even rushed my order since I was on a deadline for a drift event coming up.
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10-02-2013, 06:57 PM | #168 |
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For those beginning, yes this car is very very twitchy in stock form, only thing I can say is get out there and keep practicing. There is a balance between the steering, braking, and clutch work that all work together. Here is a quick video of me in my FR-S when it was bone stock after owning it for a little over a month.
Inside and outside view. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwK9NQDf29s"]Scion FR-S Drifting, Automass Round 2 - YouTube[/ame] [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wF2aJ2-ze3w"]Scion FR-S drifting at Automass - YouTube[/ame]
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