P0303 & P219A at Idle Only

[chrissantia1]

Sup sup Everyone, So I was trying to avoid posting as I've been able to solve most issues by sifting through the forum but now I am kinda stuck.

2013 Scion FRS
MODS:
New IAG shortblock, JE 12.5:1 pistons, BC Extreme rods, King Rod & Main bearings, ARP Main & Head bolts/studs
Heads were ported and got GSC valve Job: GSC intake/exhaust Valves, valves stems, valves guides, and valve springs with TI Retainers
Killer B oil pick up, Blue Moon Baffle Plate, Mishimoto Oil Cooler, Radium AOS
SBD turbo, SBD Downpipe, SBD test pipe, JDL UEL Turbo Manifold, JDL Intercooler, Mishi Rad, 3b MAP sens, Deastchwerks DW300C fuel Pump, ID1050x injectors
SB stage 3 - Daily w/ SMF 20LBs

So I've been solving lil issues here and there for the rebuild but the last and final issue I have is a P0303 misfire at Idle only. During Cold starts, it does not Misfire but once it goes closed loop, bam misfires at all times at idle (count reaches 99 before resetting) Car has trouble going when the RPMs are under 2500 as well

AFR:bounces between 14-15 but sometimes coming to a stop, AFR drops to 13 shoots to 16-17 then drifts around 14-15 and when going into first gear and move, the RPMs drastically drop like its about to stall and die. (assuming there is an intake leak as my Manifold Pressure at idle is about 7-7.5)
Car will only maintain 70 MPH while cruising and if I try to cruise above that, the car bogs back down to 70MPH

STFT & LTFT: LTFT are about Negative 10-13% and STFT most of the time is around positive 15% and sometimes maxes out at 35% at idle which EATS gas in stop/go scenarios but driving stays between -3 to 3%

Boost Gauge: I solved one massive leak on the back of the intake manifold and when I started the car the Boost gauge worked for a minute before going back to not breaking above 0 when revving or driving. (Maybe the pressure made another leak bigger when it went closed loop / so assuming there is a crack in a hose somewhere)

Things I have done:
Swapped coilpacks (will try this one more time)
Swapped Spark plugs (going to do this again and check it)
New Direct injector installed / new intake gaskets
Checked Fuel Pump/Filter
Checked bolt to Fuel Management System on that side
Swapped o2 sensor from Stock header

Things I'm doing tomorrow:
Checking Port injector
Checking Spark Plug again
Another leak down to see if I have another leak somewhere
Tightening Exhaust bolts
Going to check both o2 sensors
Transmission fluid change (Needs to be done)

I wonder if my Crank position sensor is going bad

I'll add more information, datalogs, and fix this post up when I get home from work. Just wanted to get a post in.
The tune on the car was with the leaks present and probably needs to be cleaned up but want to clean it up after I fix this p0303.

Car wants to go so bad, but feels heavily restricted.

If I clear the code, I only get a p219A and P0303 when driving. If I shut off the car and start it up later in the day, the car will throw those two codes PLUS p119F and P119e and ofcourse the ABS C1201

I've read around that if you get P119e and P119F that it could be something wrong with a valve, but not going to assume it's that yet since it doesn't pop unless I shut off the car and start it up later in the day.

Worst case - if it is a valve issue, then Ill just crack the bish open again x'D

[tfp]

any updates?

[RZNT4R]

P119E is a mini misfire under port injection
P119F is a mini misfire under direct injection
P219A Is if it does that twice or if it actually sees the wideband fluctuate, but not the massive fluctuations you have, really minutes ones on a per-revolution basis.

Since you get both the PI and DI faults, it's probably safe to assume it's not injection related. There were a bunch of cars with these codes when the '17s came out with tight valves. The diagnostic chart is really shitty for these codes since variations in crankshaft speed or wideband that trigger them are so small that it basically amount to "check everything and replace anything that isn't perfect, if it still does it change the ECM"

They added a last step to check the valve clearances in a TSB for the '17-'18 cars, but since someone has been in your heads and it seems like all new parts were used, once you've elmininated the obvious stuff like vacuum leaks and stuff, I'd go in with a feeler gauge. You can't adjust the valve lash while in the car, but you can at least check it, and doing valve covers isn't that bad of a job since you've been going at it for a while anyway.

For what it's worth, my car was a failry light case, it only got a slight wobble to it in the spring and fall at a no load lukewarm idle, but I remember other people having much worse symptoms

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...ighlight=p119f