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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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10-15-2018, 12:23 PM | #15 |
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Why are people quoting crank hp? Are they estimating crank horsepower because they believe they know what the drivetrain loss was on the day of their dyno test, and they know the accuracy of the dyno? Why quote peak horsepower too? Wouldn’t it be more important to know how the hp and torque look over all the rpms? What about supporting mods like e85, oil coolers, boost by gear, etc, or driving style like is the person doing smooth transitions on a track or are they doing hard transitions like static or rolling drags where the loads are significantly harder on the drivetrain?
Some conditions might be inherently harder on the drivetrain and require more focus on the internals. Some might strain the oil system and cause starvation issues, so they might strain the bearings or other components. Some might tax the fuel system. Some might tax the cooling systems based on climate conditions, FI setup and driving conditions, so the focus may need to be with e85 and cooling the motor with a larger radiator and/or oil cooler. I think any suggestions should be taken with a grain of salt or be explicitly detailed.
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10-15-2018, 01:27 PM | #16 |
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I think, by looking at OP's location, that its because the dyno is a maha. Those dynos are able to get crank HP by calculating how much loss there is in the drivetrain. They are very precise if calibrated well.
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10-15-2018, 03:12 PM | #17 | |
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What do you have for some common things say... - heat soak (FMIC) - run time (engine heat soak) - fuel starvation (both DI and PI) - overboost (failed bc or wg) - bad fuel (low octane) Things to think about. |
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10-15-2018, 03:14 PM | #18 | |
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10-15-2018, 03:16 PM | #19 | |
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I'd rather hear something like this, even though this setup (my setup) doesn’t really answer or inform the OP: Been boosted for 5k miles (67k on car) exclusively on 91 with stock internals with a peak boost of 13 psi (85mm pulley) on a roots Harrop SC that was tuned by DT, that sees aggressive daily driving, while doing spirited canyon driving and occasional hard hoonigan pulls around town. Car has an OEM oil cooler and catch cans running full synthetic at 5w30. Garaged at home and work with Northern California weather (typically dry/warm).
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10-15-2018, 04:24 PM | #20 | |
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As mentionned earlier, I’m not an agressive driver, but will enjoy doing some strong acceleration from time to time, and plan to do 3-6 hrs (2-3 days) of HPDE per year. I now have an ODB2 reader with the ODB fusion app to monitor the car, but only have been monitoring oil temp so far. Last edited by falcon_wizard; 10-15-2018 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Added details |
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10-15-2018, 05:09 PM | #21 |
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@falcon_wizard if you dont mind me asking, is that a Lachute Performance kit?
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10-15-2018, 05:48 PM | #22 | |
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10-15-2018, 07:19 PM | #23 |
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From my research 300 is safe enough with a good safe tune and quality fuel, as long as your temps are kept in check.
Thats for the motor Then it's the gearbox, 250nm rated, either have a few spare boxes or have yours built. I was going to boost mine, I wanted a good lift in power, there's not alot of difference cost wise between 300-400hp, engine and bolt on wise anyway. A built gear box and rear end brings substantial costs, upwards of 20k So for the price of a new car you can make a boosted one "somewhat" reliable Or, just grab a spare engine and box and replace when needed. Me, I dropped my show bags, mine is staying NA |
10-15-2018, 08:41 PM | #24 | |
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10-15-2018, 09:15 PM | #25 | |
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10-15-2018, 09:54 PM | #26 | |
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10-15-2018, 10:16 PM | #27 | |
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I misspoke. I was thinking 400hp, not torque, was the common consensus, but that would mean like 300ish tq. I'm sure someone can break the stock transmission just like they break the stock engine when NA. Saying any power level that requires a clutch upgrade... What do you consider requires? The stock clutch might handle who knows how much torque for a few dyno pulls. Can you clarify? Do you mean for the life of the car or for at least a few years? The stock clutch is not rated very high. I have the Exedy Stage 1 which is essentially just a pressure plate upgrade and is rated to hold like 205 tq, but the consensus is it holds much higher. I'm at 13 psi, and the clutch is holding fine, and so it the gearbox. You are saying I didn't need to upgrade the clutch, or are you saying that since I did, I am putting the transmission at serious risk? Does it matter that I likely don't see the low end torque that your turbo'ed 86 does, let alone the same absolute level of torque?
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10-15-2018, 10:18 PM | #28 |
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So 35+ tq is all the transmission will be able to handle?
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