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#71 |
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tl;dr..
30k - Car price = leftover = for mods & new laptop |
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#72 | |||||||
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Member
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Quote:
This calculator is great because it includes the actual equations required to solve this. http://www.efunda.com/formulae/finan...calculator.cfm Consider this: Punch in 0 for the residual and see what you get. Compare it to what a conventional financing (for purchasing) calculator gives you. Quote:
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Here's a better example with REAL figures: Purchase: Car: 23000 Down Payment:2300 Loan: 20700 Interest Rate: 5% Term 36 mo. Payment: 620.40 Lease: Car: 23000 Down Payment: 2300 Residual: 14000 Interest Rate: 5% Term 36 Mo. Payment: 259.14 Now: Where are we in 3 years: Purchase: You paid a total of 24,634.40 and you own a car. Lease: You paid a total of 11,629.04 and if you want the car you can pay 14,000 more to have it. So if you want to own at this point, you're in for 25,629.04 So, the purchase gets you to the same place for 994.64 less, so purchasing appears to be better (but still not the much, much worse deal you had intimated earlier). HOWEVER, the reason it costs you more is only because of the residual balloon. You're effectively paying not paying down 'principal' fast enough (principal in ' marks because it's a lease, so it's not REALLY principal, but I digress....) I shouldn't even say it 'costs you more' It doesn't really. You pay more in total because you choose to make much smaller payments. (259.14 every month instead of 620.40 for 3 years. That's worth 994.64 to a lot of people - but that's what the time-value of money is all about). Your extra 994.64 STILL buys you the option to walk away. That option is valuable. What if market value for that car is now 19000? Well, buy it out for 14000, flip it and take your 5000 (which will pay you back for some of your overpaid depreciation). Purchaser can sell it too (and he'll be 994.64 ahead of you). But what if market value for that car is 10000? You can walk away. You paid depreciation down to 14000 and didn't get hurt on the rest (for the price of 994.64). The purchaser eats it all. He's effectively paid depreciation down to 10000. Here's a book you can read: http://www.amazon.com/Stephen-Kellis...4093819&sr=8-2
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#73 |
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Delights in pure handling
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That is a crappy rate for the purchase price at 5% for 36 moths. You can get under 2% from a credit union.
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#74 |
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Just want to throw this out there. For tax reasons, you might want to go for leasing rather than straight purchasing because if you have a small business, and the lease payment can be deducted from your business income, but the payment to purchase car is not considered an expense, but rather - the capital expenditure which should be considered as an asset and taken as depreciation expenses.
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#75 |
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Hook 'em
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This thread is awesome. We have some people that were unaware that you can finance a car and then on the opposite side of the spectrum we have someone providing info for fancy accounting tricks to deduct your lease payments.
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#76 | ||
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Quote:
You just save me from typing all of these. This is very true as I have gone through the lease/purchase options and it is exactly what you say. The calculation from Tainen was way off.If you play around with some online calculator from the manufacturer's website about leasing, check with their residual value on any given car. You can see that typically for 3 year it is about 50% to 60% (BMW is 54%, I think?). For 2 years, probably at 60% to 75%. The KEY here is that dealer uses this residual value to determine the initial lease payment on common terms. Then they play around with interest rate and conditions (for example, less mileage to bump up residual value or longer terms with higher interest rate) to *LOWER* the monthly payment behind the scene. That is how they get your business. Basically, just do a simple calculation to determine the cost of borrowing: (without considering tax and fees) [Leasing] A = multiple the monthly payment by number of period B = down payment and trade in value C = residual value of the car on the contract Sum of Leasing = A + B + C [Buying with financing] X = multiple the monthly payment by number of period Y = down payment and trade in value Sum of Financing = X + Y * Cost of borrowing for leasing = Sum of Leasing - Cash purchase * Cost of borrowing for financing = Sum of Financing - Cash purchase Then you can see how much more the leasing can be compared with financing. Quote:
As this topic has been discussed before, I believe someone actually got a deal with 0% leasing option (not with Toyota, I think). If that is the case, leasing *is* better that financing especially if the residual value used on the contract is higher than the market value of that car at that term period. You can walk away from that car and not paying depreciation and long-term ownership of a POS. |
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#77 | |
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#78 |
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How to Use Car Lease Payments as a Tax Deduction
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#79 |
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Junior Member
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I will be buying mine!!!!! Cant Wait until June at least thats when my scion dealer said they would receive them.
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#80 |
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NisSubuGuru?
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Ill be financing. Have to figure out what to do with the wrx before then
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#81 |
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Glorious BRZ Master Race
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I was saving to buy this car outright but decided its wiser to lock my cash into retirement investments instead of letting it sit. I don't plan to buy the car immediately upon release so I should have cash saved again for a downpayment and bank loan the rest if necessary.
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#82 |
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Most likely buying.
I'd want to keep the car and not have any more payments. As for leasing; I don't need a brand new car every few years so it doesn't make sense. If you want to keep the car do not lease. You'll be paying the same payment for 7+ years. I'd rather pay a little more a month and have the car be mine within 3-5 years. Plus if you put a decent down payment, you'll almost never be underwater with your car financially. |
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#83 | |
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NisSubuGuru?
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Quote:
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#84 |
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