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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#15 |
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If you are not tracking the car. then cheap coilovers will do just fine and with softer spring rate, you eont compromise too much comfort either. And companies like bc racing, they offer $50 per shock lifetime rebuild services. So you can have it pretty much life of a car. If you do end up tracking, i would spend few more bucks and buy kw
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#16 | |
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I'm in the same boat as you. I do want lowering springs when i get my wheela. Swift springs was recommended by my friend who works in acura. Sent from my VS930 4G using Tapatalk 2 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BlueLeader For This Useful Post: | j2digit (05-30-2013) |
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#17 |
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I spent 160 dollars on Tein S tech springs. I kept my stock shocks. Install took about 2 hours in my driveway.
My handling feels much tighter, stiffer than stock yet still plenty comfortable for daily driving. the drop is pretty low compared to other springs on the market, but i have not scraped or rubbed on anything, even with a wider wheel setupand full passengers in the car. Ive hit a few surprise bumps and potholes so far, even went airborne once, and haven't rubbed. I went this route because a good spring and shock is better than a cheap coil, and this is not my track car so i dont need a 2000+ dollar set of track coilovers. If/when my stock shocks blow, ill replace them with Koni Yellows. But they seem to be holding up fine so far. I am extremely happy with my purchase, especially at the amount of money i spent. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to eljefe For This Useful Post: | j2digit (05-30-2013) |
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#18 | |
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thanks for the input but just to clarify, you went ahead and got springs first and when you blow out your shocks is only then you will replace them ? so for now, stock shocks (struts, is that right? - sorry about that - no automotive knowledge here at all) is what you are using? I did look at Tein springs as my other choice if I do go the spring route. one last thing, what tire wheel setup are you currently using since you have had no issues with rubbing? thinking of getting 18 x 8.5 fronts and 18 x 9.5 rears thanks |
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#19 |
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Strut = shocks
The stock shocks can handle a middle drope springs whitout any problem. Just don't drope more then 1 inch if you don't want to modify the suspension geometry too much and perfom an alligment after the installation to correct toe in and out. You can't adjust camber without buying camber bolt for the front and rear camber adjusting kit for the rear. But 1 inch will not affect too much the camber enought to adjuste it. Edit : you can buy also camber arms but more expensive and probably better.
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o= FR-S =o Last edited by Mikepage; 05-30-2013 at 01:47 PM. |
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#20 |
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Let's try and help this guy out with all the info, A "shock" or shock absorber is used in the rear, it only has to deal with vertical (up, down) motion because the suspension has multiple links and keeps the shock from being loaded. In the front however, The "shock" also has to help locate the front suspension laterally, therefore it has to be much more stout and is referred to as a "strut" in this configuration, Our front suspension design is commonly referred to as a McPherson STRUT assembly, It's like the all squares are rectangles but not all rectangles are squares arrangement. |
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| The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to SkullWorks For This Useful Post: | BlueLeader (06-29-2013), CSG Mike (05-30-2013), Enraged21 (05-31-2013), j2digit (05-30-2013), Mikepage (05-30-2013), Racecomp Engineering (05-30-2013) |
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#21 |
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Also as a side note, if you want to adjust the rear camber, I would recommend getting the control arms instead of camber adjustment bushing inserts. The inserts are cheaper, but they are a PITA in to install, and you will most likely be having it professionally installed, which is a 3 hour job. Lower control arms are more expensive parts wise, but less labor so the total cost will be about the same. And LCA looks cooler than bushings
![]() People are experiencing wacky camber in the rear after lowering the car. I was lucky enough to be -2.1 R -2.2 L, after dropping on Eibach Sportlines (-1.4in drop). I've heard people were off by +-0.6 on the right and left rears in some cases. Rock springs until the stock struts blow out. Then go coils, +$1,500.
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#22 |
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Correct. I kept my stock shocks and i haven't had any problems yet. I expect the life of them to be decreased vs. stock, but I can live with that. When they blow, ill upgrade to Koni's. Just be careful when you remove the top nut from the shocks not to mess up the seal on the shock piston, heard of a few people who blew their stock shocks immediately because they used an impact gun to remove the top nut.
I'm only running 17x8's +35 front and rear with 225/45/17's. I have plenty of room to go wider in the rear, and you could probably go wider in the front if you wanted, but its already flush enough for me. Im not really into having my wheels stick out past my fender, and i dont like the stretched tire look. I do think i could run that wheel size without any issues though as long as the offset was ok. Look up the Rota RT5 and there are pictures of people who are much lower than me running that wheel size. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to eljefe For This Useful Post: | j2digit (05-30-2013) |
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#23 |
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I used an impact gun without any issue.
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#25 |
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This is an interesting post, a lot of choices and directions that you can go. Each person's set up will be determined by what you want to do with your car and your preference as far as looks and ride quality. With your initial budget in your first post of $900-1200, you would be very limited in your choice of coilovers. A KW V3, for example, is in the neighborhood of $2200. Very few quality sets are under the $1200. That may help you make your decision right there if you are not willing to go to a larger budget. Standard lowering springs are fine, but are limited. With coilovers, you have alot of setup choices and are able to change your mind and go to a different set up tomorrow if you choose to. I have been fortunate to have driven several different FR-S with all different set ups. Each is completely different and has different characteristics. Especially since it is your Daily as mine is my Daily, you don't want to hate driving it every day. The car is so well balanced right out of the box, I would hate to ruin that. Take your time and make the best decision for you, if that means spending a little more then that might be worth it in the end.
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#26 |
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Guys who are going KWV3 are you also purchasing and installing LCA in the back and what is the set and forget known for adjusting camber with KWs up front? Strongly considering going from lowering springs to KWs myself.
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#27 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
thanks for the input
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#28 |
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I think a V3 is overkill for DD unless you have money to burn. Sure, it's good to have something nice, but come on. I'm sure they'll eventually come out with the V1s, etc. Or even the STs. Basically a V1 without the fancy coating.
Also, RCE/GTWorx has their new set for 1299 right now, I believe. But it's only for the first X number of customers. Didn't read it too closely, as I'm not in the market. Those are based off of KWs, IIRC. Ok, I was curious so I looked for the link: http://www.racecompengineering.com/i...-and-fr-s.html
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