My BRZ Build - Vancouver Canada

[Trog]

My goal was to continue the fine work of the Subaru/Toyota designers without changing the handling characteristics of the car. I understand that factory designers are constrained by certain limitations. These may include; regulations, cost, practicality, and marketing. I of course, have no such constraints. OK, perhaps cost, but what the wife doesn't find out about is fair game.

To that end, here's by build to date:

1- Tein Flex coilovers. Lowered car approx 30mm (1.25-inches) Excellent feel. About the same on smooth surfaces, a bit firmer when the road gets choppy. Set the valving at 10-clicks.
2- Cusco rear camber bars
3- Perrin cat-back exhaust
4- Magnagrafik stone guards
5- 4th brake light
6- LED trunk lighting
7- WeatherTech floor liners.
8 - Volume knob for AVIC- Pioneer radio (ordered from Tom Hohl thomashohl@comcast.net.
9 - OZ Ultraleggera wheels (18x8, ET 48) Fitted with 225/40 Potenza RE760's
10- Brakes... I've got a set of AP Racing brakes on order. Front 6-Pot, rear 4-Pot. Pics to follow.

[sklimo]

Sweet!!!

[L3P47]

Looking good so far man... What other performance/ cosmetic mods you planned?

[fumii]

nice and clean. love it

[Trog]

Originally Posted by L3P47

Looking good so far man... What other performance/ cosmetic mods you planned?

AP Racing brakes.... 6-POT in front, 4-POT in the rear.

[Fresh86]

looks good

[Trog]

Did a 4-wheel alignment yesterday. I'm starting with some rather benign settings and will adjust as testing dictates. Baseline settings were:

Front camber: -1deg
Front Toe: 0
Rear camber: -1.5deg
Rear Toe: 0


Driving impressions: The car doesn't turn in nearly as well as with the stock settings. Which I find odd given that the stock front and rear camber were pretty much 0-degrees. I did notice that the original toe was slightly positive. That would make turn-in pretty quick at the expense of high speed stability.

Next week, I'll increase the front camber to: -1.5deg, plus add some toe-in to improve the high speed stability. I'll take rear camber to: -2.0deg, however I'll leave rear toe at 0.


My AP Racing brakes are scheduled to arrive next week (6-Pot front and 4-Pot rear).


Stay tuned for more progress photos.

[Trog]

AP Racing Brakes.


DOT 5.1 brakes fluid. Stainless lines.


Front: 6-POT, 355mm (14-inch) x 32mm, slotted, 2-piece rotors)


Rear: 4-POT, 330mm (13-inch) x 25.5mm) slotted 2-piece rotors

Front clearance is about 2mm from wheel spokes and wheel weights!

[that_guy]

Originally Posted by Trog

Did a 4-wheel alignment yesterday. I'm starting with some rather benign settings and will adjust as testing dictates. Baseline settings were:

Front camber: -1deg
Front Toe: 0
Rear camber: -1.5deg
Rear Toe: 0


Driving impressions: The car doesn't turn in nearly as well as with the stock settings. Which I find odd given that the stock front and rear camber were pretty much 0-degrees. I did notice that the original toe was slightly positive. That would make turn-in pretty quick at the expense of high speed stability.

Next week, I'll increase the front camber to: -1.5deg, plus add some toe-in to improve the high speed stability. I'll take rear camber to: -2.0deg, however I'll leave rear toe at 0.


My AP Racing brakes are scheduled to arrive next week (6-Pot front and 4-Pot rear).


Stay tuned for more progress photos.

Increasing your front toe in will only make the car twitchy to drive. The rear needs toe in so that the rear gains stability, not the front. If you want front turn in to increase, you need to toe out the front, not in.

Camber should also be measured but by getting heat ranges from the tires. Simply adding more wont solve anything unless you have data to support it's improved something.

Brakes and car look good though.

[Trog]

I've been enjoying my AP brakes for a few weeks now; however a couple of issues have developed.

The first problem was that once warmed up, the brakes squealed like a stuffed pig being dragged to slaughter. It was getting so bad; I was embarrassed to drive the car.

And just yesterday, one of the brake pads on the passenger side started dragging against its rotor.

The first problem was easy to solve. I deglazed the pads, and smeared some copper based anti-seize compound on the backside of the pads.

The dragging pad was more of a concern. Where the AP Racing 4-pot rear calipers have a threaded bolt that retains the pads in the caliper, the 6-pot front caliper uses 2x15mm pins that are held in place with friction. The passenger side forward pin had worked its way out, and allowed the outboard brake pad to cock-over and grind against the rotor. Further inspection revealed that the driver's side was just about to pop-out as well. In addition, there was considerable corrosion on the pins.

To prevent the pins from popping out again, I drilled a 1/16-inch hole in the pin and locked them in place. I've ordered replacement "R" Hair-Pins to replace the cotter pins to facilitate track side pad changes. In addition, I lubricated the pins liberally with aluminum based anti-seize to mitigate corrosion.

I see this as a design defect.

[Silverdub]

Man i want those brakes and cusco arms! Nice project!

[Trog]

Bonjour Silver..... take note that with all the salt used back east, you'll have to stay on top of corrosion. I've read that some have had to get those pins machined out when they rusted in place.

Any snow on the gound?

Originally Posted by Silverdub

Man i want those brakes and cusco arms! Nice project!

[Silverdub]

Snow disapeared for good a week ago and no worries fir the salt. I dont drive my car during winter time...actually, i dont even drive it in the rain!

[Trog]

Nice turbo project, good job!

What are you using for engine management? I used Electromotive on my 911 and have been very happy with it.

Originally Posted by Silverdub

Snow disapeared for good a week ago and no worries fir the salt. I dont drive my car during winter time...actually, i dont even drive it in the rain!