Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[tomm.brz]

i had some shredding of the belt in my hks v2 because one idler pulley went loose and it was bending the belt that it skipped 1 tooth laterally
don t know if could be similar issue

[mrntd]

I'm having a strange problem and getting the P0172 code "Fuel System Too Rich". It first I thought it was a vacuum leak where the line from the purge valve comes into the manifold inlet. As a test I unplugged that line and capped off the nipple and cleared the code. After driving for a number of days I didn't get the code. Then I got the evap canister code.

I figured okay it wasn't hooked up but I found the problem getting the P0172 code, a vacuum leak. I got a new snap on end, trimmed the line and put it back together. In a day I got the P0172 code.

I read how and when the purge valve is supposed to work. The are closed until the car warms up and is running not at idle. The code happens when the car is warmed up and is at idle or moving slowly like a parking lot. I read when they fail they fail open. I tested the valve and it is closed.

The plugs have been changed, the O2 sensor has been checked, the map sensor has been cleaned and the bypass valve has been checked for leakage.

The only other symptom is both it throws a code it is running like crap. It's bogging and has throttle hesitation. It usually starts from a cold start then warms up and runs poorly. It I turn it of and back on sometimes I can resolve the running problem but I will eventually get the code. Warmer, more humid days are the worst.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thanks.

[tomm.brz]

you need to log if you want some decent help here, unless someone got same problems and can guide you through

[Mr_Eyo]

Originally Posted by toast

Wanted to wait and see if this was the problem and now can confirm it is.

If you are running the stock headers with this kit check the state of your precat. I've been working with Zach at CSG on my tune. Everything was dialed in except for a very rich condition and stumble when leaving a stop in first gear. Only showed up under low flow conditions below 1400 rpm. Tried swapping the AFR sensor, made it a little better but didn't get rid of it. Zach eventually got me a map that worked but he had to do a custom map that takes the car out of closed loop in that area. I switched to a Tomei header over the weekend and all the issues are gone.

The image below is a boroscope pic of the precat. The cat material is failing and clogged in about the middle 20% and it changed the flow enough that the reported AFR was reading very rich and making the car stumble when the closed loop system overcompensated, sending the AFR to 16 or so. These precats aren't designed for the higher heat from this kit.

Sorry for the necro on this topic, but after dealing with a P0420 DTC (low cat efficiency), I found that my cat was completely blown out of my stock header (40k miles on the clock, only 20k with the SC). Toast said Zach has seen this happen on some PD SC kits. Anyone else here have this happen? Does this also happen with centrifugal blowers?

[tomm.brz]

can happen, yes
exhaust temp is quite hot when boosted and the overlap can even make it worse for the cat

[SOCON]

For anyone who is tired of fumbling with the flat washers supplied for the air filter box, I found these. They fit perfectly. Being stainless steel, I do recommend your favorite flavor of never seize compound


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PT62TCS...sin_title&th=1

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by mrntd

I'm having a strange problem and getting the P0172 code "Fuel System Too Rich". It first I thought it was a vacuum leak where the line from the purge valve comes into the manifold inlet. As a test I unplugged that line and capped off the nipple and cleared the code. After driving for a number of days I didn't get the code. Then I got the evap canister code.

I figured okay it wasn't hooked up but I found the problem getting the P0172 code, a vacuum leak. I got a new snap on end, trimmed the line and put it back together. In a day I got the P0172 code.

I read how and when the purge valve is supposed to work. The are closed until the car warms up and is running not at idle. The code happens when the car is warmed up and is at idle or moving slowly like a parking lot. I read when they fail they fail open. I tested the valve and it is closed.

The plugs have been changed, the O2 sensor has been checked, the map sensor has been cleaned and the bypass valve has been checked for leakage.

The only other symptom is both it throws a code it is running like crap. It's bogging and has throttle hesitation. It usually starts from a cold start then warms up and runs poorly. It I turn it of and back on sometimes I can resolve the running problem but I will eventually get the code. Warmer, more humid days are the worst.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know. Thanks.

Make sure you have the upgraded Bypass Actuator. It's larger and more durable than the one that came on supercharger kit initially. The old smaller ones leak air and create vacuum leaks. Easiest way to tell is by looking at the backside of the bracket. The new bigger bypass actuator is attached with 2 nuts the older smaller actuator has 3 nuts.

[VACapsFan]

So I have an odd and kind dumb feeling question. On the surge tank for the heat exchanger, is it supposed to be a completely sealed system, or does the cap act as an overflow relief? When I go to screw the cap on it will just keep turning, it feels like it's about to fully tighten but then gets loose again with very little effort.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by VACapsFan

So I have an odd and kind dumb feeling question. On the surge tank for the heat exchanger, is it supposed to be a completely sealed system, or does the cap act as an overflow relief? When I go to screw the cap on it will just keep turning, it feels like it's about to fully tighten but then gets loose again with very little effort.

It's a not-quite-sealed but close system.

[VACapsFan]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's a not-quite-sealed but close system.

Ok, so the cap not tightening all the way is a feature, not a bug. Cool, I'm just glad I asked before I went out and bought a new one, thanks Mike!

[Mr_Eyo]

I'm having trouble finding it, but I thought I read in this thread somewhere that someone hooked up the bypass valve to an alternate source that never sees boost? If so, will this work with an A/T? I'm at 25k miles boosted and the 1st Gen bypass valve actuator has failed me. It can barely hold 5 psi vacuum. Symptoms are bad idle, hesitation at low rpms when tipping in, -30 to -40% fuel trims and p0172. Everything is fine at higher rpms in boost.

[colHolm]

Anyone have the MAP-MAF edelbrock wire harness they'd be willing to sell? P/N 37-1750. If you have a DBox installed, it replaces this part...

Edelbrock has none in stock, and doesn't know when they will.

Thanks,
Colin

[B T]

Originally Posted by colHolm

Anyone have the MAP-MAF edelbrock wire harness they'd be willing to sell? P/N 37-1750. If you have a DBox installed, it replaces this part...
Edelbrock has none in stock, and doesn't know when they will.
Thanks,
Colin

I built my own better version with parts from https://www.bmotorsports.com

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by colHolm

Anyone have the MAP-MAF edelbrock wire harness they'd be willing to sell? P/N 37-1750. If you have a DBox installed, it replaces this part...

Edelbrock has none in stock, and doesn't know when they will.

Thanks,
Colin

Replied to your other thread as well, you might also try https://iwireusa.com/