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Old 01-07-2017, 05:27 AM   #7715
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...EDIT: little too sarcastic... Little too mean...

That is a dangerously incorrect statement.



Clarification: MAP, not MAF, sensor.



P0500: Vehicle speed sensor. What did you do with the ABS sensor after you broke the bolt?
U0073: CAN BUS off. This usually comes up when plugging in or unplugging an OBDII device while the car is running.

... I have a feeling that is going to turn into a fairly long troubleshooting process.

it is pretty simple. Dealer reset ECU to program new keys and wiped my tune.

need a tune asap so car doesn't blow up. OFT is easy to get. ECUtek i have no clue. e
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:21 AM   #7716
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So I just finished my install with the 210 non-IC plus a few other things. After reading more and checking out stockysnail's chart, it seems I may have bit off more than I can chew. I'm back in school and DD the car, and it doesn't seem I'll be able to afford tracking it for several years. I don't want to do clutch or injectors any time soon.

In addition to the non-IC 210 I did e85, 72.5mm pulley, and Perrin 3" intake. I've had the OFH and Perrin overpipe also.

Should I go up to the 80mm pulley? Limit fill ups with e85? I think I'd choose the former. What's the general consensus?

Thanks.
I'm running the 210 IC with E85 and a 70mm pulley.

The clutch is definitely at it's limit, but still works fine as long as I'm not flooring it in 5th gear at low RPMs.

I think the consensus is that for street driving, the IC really isn't necessary for the 210 on E85. E85 is so knock resistant that the IC doesn't provide much of a safety factor, as the real limiting factor is fuel and air volume, not knock.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:07 PM   #7717
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I'm running the 210 IC with E85 and a 70mm pulley.

The clutch is definitely at it's limit, but still works fine as long as I'm not flooring it in 5th gear at low RPMs.

I think the consensus is that for street driving, the IC really isn't necessary for the 210 on E85. E85 is so knock resistant that the IC doesn't provide much of a safety factor, as the real limiting factor is fuel and air volume, not knock.
This is interesting -- I'm running non-IC 210 w/ 72.5mm pulley on 93. Everything works great, but was considering flex fuel for the spring to run e85 (as I just discovered a hidden station near my house!). It seems like injectors and fuel pump are highly recommended, so i'd probably go that route.

I primarily don't want to replace clutch -- I'm able to put the car back to stock with only 10-12 hours effort with the current mods that I have on. As soon as I replace clutch... No going back quickly.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:45 PM   #7718
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This is interesting -- I'm running non-IC 210 w/ 72.5mm pulley on 93. Everything works great, but was considering flex fuel for the spring to run e85 (as I just discovered a hidden station near my house!). It seems like injectors and fuel pump are highly recommended, so i'd probably go that route.

I primarily don't want to replace clutch -- I'm able to put the car back to stock with only 10-12 hours effort with the current mods that I have on. As soon as I replace clutch... No going back quickly.
You can get away without the clutch, especially if you stick to the 72.5mm pulley. I'm sort of in the same position as you... trying to decide if I want to do fuel and clutch and more FI or just go back to stock and get something faster. I did this build with pretty much the same goal, but now I want more (as is human nature, I suppose)
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:59 PM   #7719
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You can get away without the clutch, especially if you stick to the 72.5mm pulley. I'm sort of in the same position as you... trying to decide if I want to do fuel and clutch and more FI or just go back to stock and get something faster. I did this build with pretty much the same goal, but now I want more (as is human nature, I suppose)
My big concern is that I know something will catch my eye in the next 3-4 years (max) -- And the BRZ is quickly depreciating. By this time next year my car will only be worth 15k, and I can probably only get 3-4k for mods. There is nothing else out there that is as cheap to maintain and as fun as the twins at this point however. So unless something comes out soon, I think i'm sticking with my BRZ, and therefore might look into the E85 scene.

... Or I could also consider that running 270+whp puts the stock 2013 motor at risk. It may only be a matter of time till it blows. Maybe i'm better sticking with my 220whp on 93.
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:30 PM   #7720
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... Or I could also consider that running 270+whp puts the stock 2013 motor at risk. It may only be a matter of time till it blows. Maybe i'm better sticking with my 220whp on 93.
Is this confirmed? Does it still apply with e85?
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:32 PM   #7721
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My big concern is that I know something will catch my eye in the next 3-4 years (max) -- And the BRZ is quickly depreciating. By this time next year my car will only be worth 15k, and I can probably only get 3-4k for mods. There is nothing else out there that is as cheap to maintain and as fun as the twins at this point however. So unless something comes out soon, I think i'm sticking with my BRZ, and therefore might look into the E85 scene.

... Or I could also consider that running 270+whp puts the stock 2013 motor at risk. It may only be a matter of time till it blows. Maybe i'm better sticking with my 220whp on 93.
Yeah, I think e85 with this blower is about as fast as this car has any business being. It can hold up to about 350 before you need a built motor, and transmissions start to get sketchy in that range as well.

If I'm being honest, I'm sort of over the idea of aftermarket FI. Getting this kit up and running correctly was such a headache. It was fun and I don't regret it and I love my car, but it was close to 6 months before all the kinks were worked out. I'm eyeing c6 z06s now
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:45 PM   #7722
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Is this confirmed? Does it still apply with e85?
Delicious recommends built motor at 350hp, which my research says is conservative but not unreasonable. This is assuming the tune is good, which most people know who the decent tuners are at this point. You can blow a motor at 150hp if you have a junk tune. I would say this probably still applies with e85, as the failure is mostly due to the rods not standing up to the torque.
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Old 01-10-2017, 01:50 PM   #7723
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Is this confirmed? Does it still apply with e85?
E85 doesn't make the rods more resistant to torque It does mean that you're less likely to face the cylinder pressures associated with knock. Cosworth have stated time and again that they have limited their kit to 280bhp (not whp) for safety on the stock block.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:34 PM   #7724
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knock on wood, but the stock clutch on my 210 kit with e85 is holding 280whp/220tq so far. Maybe 6-8k miles on my kit now? I've got a 2013 car/engine as well.
Car has 45k miles total

KNOCK ON WOOD!!!! lol

I don't trust much of what cosworth says since their stuff is forged by the hands of God. Well, at least they price it that way.
But from what I've gathered, I wouldn't wanna go much higher before I really need to consider engine internal upgrades.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pd2pmz0Yg3c"]Supercharged FRS Dyno Pull at Mod Auto & ModBargains - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:05 PM   #7725
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Is this confirmed? Does it still apply with e85?
Is it confirmed? No. There would be no way to know. Every engine has different tolerances -- Hell you can blow a stock motor on stock tune after 75000 miles out of nowhere.

Knowing that 300whp is the limit of the clutch (well agreed-upon), and that others blow their motors without forged internals over 300whp... I don't think it is unfair to suggest that a car running 280whp may be a ticking time bomb for a variety of reasons. Even if it doesn't give out for 40,000 miles.... it is much more likely to than a car running at 220whp.

On E85 I could make it 10 miles, 100,000 miles, or 3985 miles. No way to know.. but MUCH more likely to have trouble at 280 than 220 i'd imagine.

EDIT: ESPECIALLY when its cold. I bet my 210 non-IC on 72.5mm pulley is making 230-240whp or more in the 20-30 deg f temps right now. It feels dramatically quicker.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:24 AM   #7726
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Is it confirmed? No. There would be no way to know. Every engine has different tolerances -- Hell you can blow a stock motor on stock tune after 75000 miles out of nowhere.

Knowing that 300whp is the limit of the clutch (well agreed-upon), and that others blow their motors without forged internals over 300whp... I don't think it is unfair to suggest that a car running 280whp may be a ticking time bomb for a variety of reasons. Even if it doesn't give out for 40,000 miles.... it is much more likely to than a car running at 220whp.

On E85 I could make it 10 miles, 100,000 miles, or 3985 miles. No way to know.. but MUCH more likely to have trouble at 280 than 220 i'd imagine.

EDIT: ESPECIALLY when its cold. I bet my 210 non-IC on 72.5mm pulley is making 230-240whp or more in the 20-30 deg f temps right now. It feels dramatically quicker.
This is an important point that everyone who modifies a car should understand. You're always playing the odds, no matter what you do. Even on a setup that's never blown up before, a big enough air leak behind the MAF could blow your car up when you're dealing with FI.

In other words, be prepared to fix everything if you have to.
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:44 PM   #7727
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Is it just my lack of concentration, or do I not see many posts about a 69mm pulley + 93?

That's what I am going to be running on my stage 2 kit, I was wondering what king of numbers can be expected.

Other engine related mods include -
Borla catless UEL
Motiv catless OP/FP Combo
Perrin drop in filter
Single piece aluminum driveshaft
IRP shift assembly
Whiteline trans mount insert, diff bushing, and subframe bushings

Anything else (besides the obvious oil cooler) I should look into? I plan on having the car shipped to Moto-East for a tune.
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:22 PM   #7728
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Is it just my lack of concentration, or do I not see many posts about a 69mm pulley + 93?

That's what I am going to be running on my stage 2 kit, I was wondering what king of numbers can be expected.

Other engine related mods include -
Borla catless UEL
Motiv catless OP/FP Combo
Perrin drop in filter
Single piece aluminum driveshaft
IRP shift assembly
Whiteline trans mount insert, diff bushing, and subframe bushings

Anything else (besides the obvious oil cooler) I should look into? I plan on having the car shipped to Moto-East for a tune.
I feel like I've been posting the numbers every couple months on this thread now... but here you are.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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