Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[TommyC]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Adapter spacers give you multiple points of failure. You have to retorque both sets of lugnuts.

I recommend ARP extended studs, and blank spacers. You can stack spacers as you see fit this way.

How involved is the process to install? I assume you have to remove the hub assembly for each wheel?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by TommyC

How involved is the process to install? I assume you have to remove the hub assembly for each wheel?

Yes, and you need to press the studs in.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by TommyC

How involved is the process to install? I assume you have to remove the hub assembly for each wheel?

You can do the fronts with them still in the car if you're determined, rears definitely need to come out if you're using the long ARP studs, shorter OEM size studs will fit without taking the rear hubs apart:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21563

The cheapest thing to do would be remove the hubs yourself and take them to a local shop capable of pressing them in for less money than paying a shop to do top to bottom install. You can DIY for less than $50 in specific tools if you already have a capable garage setup (wrenches and sockets, breaker bars, jack and stands, an impact, torque wrench etc.).

[Northwest86]

So I'm on holidays doing a bunch of track days. I had upgraded to the Upper spec calipers (GTS/BRZ you probably don't have the lower spec in the USA) with DBA T3's and Project Mu NS400s. That was possibly a mistake. The rears didn't go over the 630 Degree Celcius Temp paint marking but the fronts did. The pads are only good for 400 Degrees Celcius so they were baked good and proper. The stock shims even started to change colours. My front rotor is posted below. Obviously I hit ABS a few times as a newer track person which certainly didn't help. The rough track leading into the corners probably didn't help. I'll fix that with seat time. (I live 1500 miles from the track and as such, get to go rarely)

Now to the question. Will Project mu HC800 Pads help with the rotor scoring to an extent. My temperature problems could mostly be solved through better technique I think, but I may be on the edge of BBK's.
That leads to my second question. The 08-15 STI Brembos are a kit that most shops around here stock for reasonable prices. Will there be major bias issues that could make problems worse or are they are perfectly acceptable upgrade. I'd look at AP sprint type kits but basically no-one stocks them in Aus and the import costs and our low dollar make them outrageously expensive for so little use.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by Northwest86

So I'm on holidays doing a bunch of track days. I had upgraded to the Upper spec calipers (GTS/BRZ you probably don't have the lower spec in the USA) with DBA T3's and Project Mu NS400s. That was possibly a mistake. The rears didn't go over the 630 Degree Celcius Temp paint marking but the fronts did. The pads are only good for 400 Degrees Celcius so they were baked good and proper. The stock shims even started to change colours. My front rotor is posted below. Obviously I hit ABS a few times as a newer track person which certainly didn't help. The rough track leading into the corners probably didn't help. I'll fix that with seat time. (I live 1500 miles from the track and as such, get to go rarely)

Now to the question. Will Project mu HC800 Pads help with the rotor scoring to an extent. My temperature problems could mostly be solved through better technique I think, but I may be on the edge of BBK's.
That leads to my second question. The 08-15 STI Brembos are a kit that most shops around here stock for reasonable prices. Will there be major bias issues that could make problems worse or are they are perfectly acceptable upgrade. I'd look at AP sprint type kits but basically no-one stocks them in Aus and the import costs and our low dollar make them outrageously expensive for so little use.

I'm not sure about the temperature range, but it sounds like you may be dragging the brakes too long. You want to get your braking done quickly and purposefully then get off them. The reason I suggest it's technique is, with a good set of pads, fluid and lines (the last being optional) our stock systems are very capable but due to air flow issues very prone to overcooking easily. Compound that with, if you haven't done the pedal dance, the EBD system could be applying the brakes excessively as well. You mentioned rough track leading to the corners. With the traction/stability just 'off', it can still engage if you traverse rough surfaces. So you could have a situation where you were 'done' braking but the system applies them a little longer making them slightly less effective for the next corner if you're on a short/technical track. This means you're braking earlier and longer for the next corner further heating the brakes. It's a snowball effect.
Also, you want to threshold brake. Try to brake right up to the point ABS is about to activate. Don't get in the habit of using ABS, you're actually losing some of the weight transfer you're trying to accomplish under braking.

[Northwest86]

Hmm thats given me a few things to think on. The next open practice day is a week away so I think I'll try the pedal dance and see if that helps. I did notice that over the bumps was where I was getting that "pulsing" type feeling in the pedal sometimes as you enter the corner. I think I'll go onto some of the smoother straights and really feel out the ABS and just check what that's doing as you may be right. The track did have alot of elevation and camber changes, especially in tight areas. My car is also turbocharged and running 225 NT05's which is nowhere near enough I found out. It was wheelspin city on every corner. I may have to go back to AD08's in a 235 of get a set of wheels with some NT01's in 235/245 or something. Our lack of tyre options here sucks.

[Bramick]

You might also like the Beastronix products for ABS and nanny controller

[Northwest86]

Oh I definitely do but maybe another day. I hate auto electrical stuff with a passion and I've already had my 6 monthly helping of that this holiday.

[Fish Eagle]

Originally Posted by Northwest86

So I'm on holidays doing a bunch of track days. I had upgraded to the Upper spec calipers (GTS/BRZ you probably don't have the lower spec in the USA) with DBA T3's and Project Mu NS400s. That was possibly a mistake. The rears didn't go over the 630 Degree Celcius Temp paint marking but the fronts did. The pads are only good for 400 Degrees Celcius so they were baked good and proper. The stock shims even started to change colours. My front rotor is posted below. Obviously I hit ABS a few times as a newer track person which certainly didn't help. The rough track leading into the corners probably didn't help. I'll fix that with seat time. (I live 1500 miles from the track and as such, get to go rarely)

Now to the question. Will Project mu HC800 Pads help with the rotor scoring to an extent. My temperature problems could mostly be solved through better technique I think, but I may be on the edge of BBK's.
That leads to my second question. The 08-15 STI Brembos are a kit that most shops around here stock for reasonable prices. Will there be major bias issues that could make problems worse or are they are perfectly acceptable upgrade. I'd look at AP sprint type kits but basically no-one stocks them in Aus and the import costs and our low dollar make them outrageously expensive for so little use.

My car is also a "lower spec" car with the slightly smaller rotors.
I'm Vortech supercharged. I put in a lot of track time and I do some amateur racing too.
I've tried a variety of pads, mostly with disappointing results, and I've also found that bumpy tracks cause similar results to yours when you're running mediocre pads.

I've settled with the following, and am comfortable enough with them to not be looking at a BBK.
I've used about 7 or so sets of these pads, and they work well under track conditions.

Front - Endless MX72
Rear - Bendix DB1803U

If you can get them locally, I strongly recommend trying them.

If you can't source them locally, then it might be worth trying to import them from Powerbrake here in South Africa, but I'm not sure if they'll despatch internationally? Our exchange rate is horrendous, so they could be affordable to import into Oz.
If you talk to Powerbrake, their equivalent of the MX72 is called PB05, which is MX72 specially manufactured for Powerbrake SA.

Current SA prices are:
Front, MX72 - ZAR3249
Rear, DB1803U - ZAR1698
Current exchange rate ZAR1 = AUD0.08917
The prices above are inclusive of 14% VAT which you won't pay with an export, so do *100/114, then add shipping and your local import duties, VAT, etc.

Hope this helps

[JozhGoober]

Originally Posted by Northwest86

So I'm on holidays doing a bunch of track days. I had upgraded to the Upper spec calipers (GTS/BRZ you probably don't have the lower spec in the USA) with DBA T3's and Project Mu NS400s. That was possibly a mistake. The rears didn't go over the 630 Degree Celcius Temp paint marking but the fronts did. The pads are only good for 400 Degrees Celcius so they were baked good and proper. The stock shims even started to change colours. My front rotor is posted below. Obviously I hit ABS a few times as a newer track person which certainly didn't help. The rough track leading into the corners probably didn't help. I'll fix that with seat time. (I live 1500 miles from the track and as such, get to go rarely)

Now to the question. Will Project mu HC800 Pads help with the rotor scoring to an extent. My temperature problems could mostly be solved through better technique I think, but I may be on the edge of BBK's.
That leads to my second question. The 08-15 STI Brembos are a kit that most shops around here stock for reasonable prices. Will there be major bias issues that could make problems worse or are they are perfectly acceptable upgrade. I'd look at AP sprint type kits but basically no-one stocks them in Aus and the import costs and our low dollar make them outrageously expensive for so little use.

Before going shopping for caliper/BBK upgrades, try dedicated track pads, especially if you're running more power. NS400 is basically a street-only pad, and the HC800 is a bit better but not quite a track pad. If PMU stuff is readily available, try the Club Racer and some good brake fluid.

[ZionsWrath]

How could i plug the banjo bolt hole when i remove my calipers to send for rebuild? I noticed end of last season the pistons were getting a bit of resistance to compress fully so i think atter this season i will send them in. Should i just bolt it to the oem caliper and sit it on milk crates?

[Northwest86]

So you mean the brake line end? The best way I can think of is to stick some vacumn hose/rubber tube in there, possibly with a barbed fitting or correctly sized drillbit or rod or something to expand it a bit. As to what size you'd need you'll have to find out what size the banjo round part is. The other option is to get a smallish clamp and clamp a piece of rubber either side. Those are what I can come up with right now apart from clamping the lines.

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

How could i plug the banjo bolt hole when i remove my calipers to send for rebuild? I noticed end of last season the pistons were getting a bit of resistance to compress fully so i think atter this season i will send them in. Should i just bolt it to the oem caliper and sit it on milk crates?

Buy some fluid line stoppers like these: http://www.germanautoparts.com/productdisplay/143975

Thanks for the reminder, I need to buy myself a set

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

How could i plug the banjo bolt hole when i remove my calipers to send for rebuild? I noticed end of last season the pistons were getting a bit of resistance to compress fully so i think atter this season i will send them in. Should i just bolt it to the oem caliper and sit it on milk crates?

Snip the end of a rubber glove finger and zip tie it onto the end. Butt the tie against the line fitting and the bolt won't slip out the other way.